Mopar1973Man

Over on Tractor Farm and Family there is a video on how to skin animals using compressed air. Neat way to skin out animals but bad thing for yourself...

Fuel heater is the only reason I kept mine... Being Hex is up north of me I see why he kept his too. Might consider upgrading to a later model filter housing.

Not really... Because you want to keep fuel pressure at 14 PSI for the VP44. Thats why the last check valve just like the P7100 pump and VE pump are the same way... Actually the carter has a internal regulator too that routes extra fuel from the output back to the input flowing across the motor as lube and cooling. But all pumps have a regulator of some sort. AirDog and FASS with a 3rd line back to the tank, Raptor, FASS95 and Carter with internal return to input, etc. Because the small hole purpose is to bleed air but hold fuel pressure. That's why its so tiny of a hole. Not typically no. The problem is that most people don't plan the fuel supply system properly with the demand that they are putting on it. Hence the problem with up and down pressure. Actually the regulator problem is trying to build a cheap regulator that works for a long period of time. The carter lift pump regulators fail because the chrome plated BB (check ball) is beating against pop metal body (cast aluminium). S in a short time the BB tears up the seat and pressure drops. On AirDogs the check ball is plastic with rubber coating and it will squeeze back into the coil of the spring which is correctable by egg shaping the last coil. There is a bunch of VP44 pictures over on DTR.com internals, externals, exploded views, etc. The best I can give is a single strand of 14 AWG wire will not fit the hole. May take a thou or two off and it would. Cool... I'd love to sit down and talk shop with chalk and beer...

Just loosen and drop straight down. Leaving the bolts in the compressor. Make sure to clean around the hose fitting before removal to keep dirt from getting into the compressor. After that you can cover the holes with plugs or duct tape, etc...

Comes out in about 10-15 minutes easy as pie... 4 bolts mounting it to the block, 1 bolt holding the freon lines on. 1 electrical connector.Drain plug is on top...

Won't work because once the engine stops twisting the flow stops in the injection pump as proven here is this video... BC was going to build a lift pump timer to keep it running but I figure it out that it won't work because there is next to zero flow... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=YREpPrMxkHU

What's bad is after fighting with freon leaks for so long I found my compressor had less the 1 oz of oil in it. Compressor hold 7.1 Ozs (210 cc) so knowing the compressor is low the rest of the system would have less too. So I added the 8 oz bottle and never looked back.

Ahhh... :smart:MoparMom wanted her own little slice of the site with down to earth type topics. Home issues, family issues etc. Maybe a place where the wifes of the owners could get together. Etc. General Conv. is just your every day bar crowd and hang out...I'll get MoparMom on to respond...

Torquing the valve will do nothing. Being the bolts are shoulder with stops so it will not squeeze down on the gasket any more. Gasket replacement is required...Yeah I know they are spendy...Skip over to RockAuto.com they have it for $72 bucks...

Old school filter can with the test port on top only flow 35 GPH max so they are restrictive themselves. That's why the newer design came out top loading and better flow rates at 75 GPH.

From the manufacture... http://www.sanden.com/index.php?tag=MTExOTk3OTEwNw6

165 GPH pumps should hold a 2-3 PSI drop150 GPH pumps should hold a 2-3 PSI drop.100 GPH pumps should hold a 3-5 PSI drop.These are average drop amounts for stock to mild tuned engines. More fuel demand the more the drop.

Well... Errr... Ummm... Local NAPA sold them to me at $130 for the Evaporator and $125 for the heater core... :banghead:

Heater core and evaporator core both are spendy pieces. Resistor is a good thing to while out. Check the blown motor bearing and the blower cage too. If the motor is wobbly or squeaky time to replace.

All 12V engine have the injection lines directly to the injector. The return rail is also external of the engine too.

Actually accumulator and the orfice tube (high pressure pipe) should be replaced. The accumulator has the drier in it and the orfice tube has filter in it. As for the seal kit it cost me about $10 bucks for the seal kit from NAPA.As for the compressor I would pull it out and drain the oil from it and then pick up a 8oz bottle of PAG oil and reload it. This way you know for sure the compressor is properly loaded with oil.

Your going to pass me in the Northern part of the state... You'll go past hex0rz in the northern part of the state too. You too could get together and say hi for sure...

Here is a full video of it... About 8:35 start watching http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ghDbhJDBvkc

I've actually considered got to a 215/85 R16 next... (Also a stock tire size for 1 tons)

Keep going I know you can get up to 21 next...

Mileage isn't a issue but the pure age is... I would be concerned about the rubber seals and hoses. Like brake seals, bearing seals, engine seals, etc. All this stuff need to be looked at before running long haul with it. Engine wise its barely broke it.

Always better when you got friends helping you fix your truck and drink beer too...

It will display the fuel temp where the sensor is just below the computer in the fuel. The little ribbon cable. Notice the bottom is aluminum...Now the top is plastic...Now notice the electronics are mounted to the aluminium not the plastic so no matter what blower or heat sink you make it not going to cool the electronics. But keeping good fuel flow under the pump 14-20 PSI that problem is no longer a issue.

The 1/8 Needle valves are sold at NAPA stores... WH6820 list for about $8 bucks.

Fuel pressure: Is only for the VP44 mostly. But for the VP44 fuel systems I highly suggest to keep it between 14-20 PSI for a happy VP44. I know AH64ID can add in the CR fuel specs... :whistle:Then ISX can add in the P7100 fuel pressure specs too...