Mopar1973Man

I "assume" its similar design like the AirDog... The return line should have a spring loaded check ball.

As far as I've been told that Cummins will not sell ECM's for our truck. As far as Mopar/Dodge Dealer they only sell blank ECM's. Then as from what Bob Wagner with Smarty says that regardless of ECM it can be reflashed with any software as long as it ECM for your generation. (98.5-02).Where to go?

Here it is come and claim all you want! http://weatherspark.com/#!dashboard;loc=45.2363,-116.3274;rd=12;ropts=speed:12,loop:1,alpha:0.7;fcs=0;msl=pressureAltimeterMbar;mol=radar;units=temperature:f;graphs=spaitg:1,pressure:1,precipitationRate:0,siitg:1,stidpg:0,smeisg:1,solarPosition:1,humidity:0,saf:0,subZero2:0,windIcons:1,sdpitg:0,windDirection:0,precipitation:0,windSpeed:0,clouds:0,tiles:0,precipitationAmount:0,temperature:1,dewPoint:0

I've got a buddy just down the road that Line-X his entire Toyota Pickup...

Nope... We still got snow in the high country above the house (above 5,000 ft). I need to travel up to 7,000-7,500 ft for the wood cutting hole. Might start in June... For sure July...

Oh... :doh:Your still stock? Wow you do need a box of some sort like a Edge or Quadzilla then a set of RV275 injectors (+40 HP) or maybe +50 HP injectors. If you adding a enhancement box I would go for a Stealth Plate to tap the wire.But your fuel pressure will have to be turned up more for added mods you dropping too low now to add anything to it because it will drop more as you demand more fuel. It time to consider how much your looking to get out of the truck and plan now BEFORE you buy anything. So if you say you going for 350-375 HP total then look at everything on the truck for weak point fix them first before adding the power. The prevents future failures.

Sorry if he's looking for mileage he's going to have to get off the interstates and find the back roads and slow down. 70 MPH even in my truck I might get 14-15 MPG at 70-75 MPH even with all the current mods. Speed is a killer...

Welcome to the family... Pull up a chair grab your favorite beverage and do some reading and posting to the other family members here. Sure to make friends in a quick hurry!

That's good news!

By next week I'll have some tow time on the RV so I'll post up how ugly that is too...

Ok... So what are you paying for diesel right now? Riggins, Idaho - $4.139 New Meadows, Idaho - $4.259 McCall, Idaho - $4.299 Payette, Idaho - $4.149 How far do you have to travel to get fuel? (Round Trip) Riggins, Idaho - 30 miles New Meadows, Idaho - 40 Miles McCall, Idaho - 70 Miles Payette, Idaho - 240 miles You said what?

Cover the WIF lead with a plastic bag and zip tie. The Fuel heater can just hang...

Are you getting torque converter lockup?Is there any error codes present?Auto's aren't my cup of tea...

One a warm morning above 65-70*F there shouldn't be any grid heaters and both ECT (Engine Coolant) and IAT (Intake Air) should be the same temp. FACT: Both ECT sensor and IAT senor are the same thermosistor. So they both have the same values for resistance and the only difference is the plug and the housing.All this talk about IAT temp no longer even bothers me for fairly stock trucks. The fact is yes after the turbo the air is warmer but after passing through the intercooler it now same temp as the air outside. So now when you enter the manifold that has a coolant passage running with inches of the IAT sensor it hard to get "Cold Air" in the engine. The only way you truly can is mill the entire manifold off, plug the coolant passages and use a racing manifold.But after all my studying of IAT and Intake Air Temps I still say warmer the better for MPG's. When the IAT reaches 100-140*F is the sweet spot for MPG reasons. For racing/performance you'll want to shoot lower like 60-100*F...

Check it... Check your IAT and ECT temp at startup and see if they are the same or close. Or you could break out a DVM and ohm it out... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/59-intake-air-temperature-sensor-iat-sensor [TABLE] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, bgcolor: #3870cc, align: center]Temperature[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, bgcolor: #3870cc, align: center] Resistance[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 13°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 56K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 26°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 39K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 87ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 7.4K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 91°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 6.8K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 100°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 5.6k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 107°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 4.7K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 112°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 4.3K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 119ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 3.6K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 123ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 3.3K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 127ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 3.0K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 132ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 2.7k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 143°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 2.2k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 148°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 2.0k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 163°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 1.5k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 173°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 1.2k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 184°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 1.0k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]

Mine follows +40*F over what ever outside temp is... So like today its 60*F outside so it would be roughly 100*F IAT Temp. Tough to reduce IAT temps when the intake manifold is heated with 190-195*F coolant. That's about right... (130 - 85 = +45 offest) High humidity will make the offset worse. Also that why my IAT fooler is set for 143*F so it like 100*F day to the engine...

Had to make a run into Riggins, ID for propane for the RV and while I was there I pitched a extra $25 bucks in the tank of the Cummins at $4.139 a gallon for diesel... http://g.co/maps/7vfdr Now for the weather today is 60*F outside with 60% humidity kind of rainy... Also Riggins, IS at 1,800 ft elevation so its a good climb home again... Cmg 21.9 (Current for the trip) Tmg 24.7 (Current for the tank) Since I did add fuel this is going to be a virtual run. So I'll look at gallons remain on the SGII...

Hot water baths always cure those 8 leggers...

I've got 2 cars parked under the tree and I use a Ultrasonic box & mothball as keeping the mice at bay..3/8" will work but you'll still see more fuel pressure drop than I do because of the limitations of the plumbing.Stock 6mm is good for 75 GPH1/2" lines are good for 570 GPHThose 2 figures are calculating 15 foot straight pipe with 15 PSI at the source and 0 PSI at the far end. As you can see the 1/2" is has the best reserve volume capacity vs. stock. So roughly speaking 3/8" should have about 247 GPH flow rate.

Between multi-fuel injection events, EGR and the short exhaust lobe of the cam the efficiency went down. I'm sorry but I have a hard time seeing anything being efficient when you polluting the cylinder air with waste gases.

HO = High Output (6 Speed Cummins)SO = Standard Output (5 Speed or Automatic)As for the beefed up comment. Most likely internal parts are beefed up for the the use of chips. But so far I've not seen any heavy duty VP44 last any longer than the typical re-man'ed pumps.

I love the temp chart and I'll qualify or it... :thumbup2:I don't think its time to put on a jacket till 0*F...

I know you all know I use my ScanGauge II for getting the most MPG's from my vehicles as in the other thread I kept going over here. So here is now the last few trips to McCall, ID now in my 2002 Dodge Cummins... http://g.co/maps/ezxhe

I've got a old Garmin GPS V which is awesome for both my Search and Rescue work and just in the truck. I'll admit the screen is tiny and only black and white but works still...

Personally I would do a drawstraw for a 150 series pumps... I'm running the old school Draw Straw I but never had any problems with it. Most will sell you the Drawstraw V series but you might fight with it at times. Then I'm using a old school AirDog short bed bracket which is killer and tuck my pump behind the transfer case and guards the filter from offroad debris.