Mopar1973Man

Hospitals are very expensive places to stay... :spend:I can think of better places...:hyper:So what happened?

If they are torqued properly there is absolutley no need for lock-tite. Not to mention the blue lock-tite would most likely burn away in the extreme temp of the exhaust where anti-sieze will loose its oil but the plating will remain.

Also got to remember with the A/C on you dumping all your cab heat over the top of the intercooler warming the intake air even more. I typically see better MPG with the A/C on than with it off because heat factor. It small jump but its there. My last few high marks have been down with temps at 70-80*F...

Is there vacuum up to that point? If you separate the coupler and put your finger over the connectors is there vacuum? Then I would check at the control in the dash is there vacuum there?

Make sure to use lots of anti-seize...

Personally I would ohm those wires back to the ECM and verify there is no breaks in the wires. Double check the contacts in the ECM and ECM plug too. Worst case it would the ECM failed internally. But I would still try to get that verified with DRBIII tool at a Dodge Dealer.

Sounds like a thermostat change is in order...

Look closely the red in mine is the vacuum motor near the trans hump. The yellow is the one up on the firewall.

Under the dash on the driver side near the transmission hump is the connector for the vacuum system to the HVAC case. Check and see if the connector has separated...

Well there is only 2 things it could be...* Misfiring injector* Poor Compression not capable of firing fuelHow about valve lash? :shrug:But since the injectors have been bench tested it only leave the other... :think:Anyone else have any other ideas?

Another way to verify it... After driving a distance with the pressure low measure the tire temp with your hand. The tires are hot to the touch bring the pressure up a bit more say another 5 PSI. Remember there is 1,100 pound engine up from so the weight is there and must be aware of that factor.

Common practice in the snow too. But with the tires deflated that low be very aware of your road speeds because the tire is flexing much more and will weaken if driven at highway speeds. Getting around town 25-35 MPH I don't see any problems with that.Like my truck in the winter time when there is lots of snow and ice I will drop tire pressures to about 35 all way around if I know the highway is ugly. So just be cautious with your road speed and you'll be fine.

No I was being honest... I think its slick when people find old tyme solutions for common problems. If the worked back then they should work now.

Really nice job...Your right I tend to like the old 1/2 pound marking on the Dricols over the 1 PSI marks on the EV2... But still look awesome..

I had to look this up... Not to hijack but this is the information I did find... Te300 your one smart feller... http://standeyo.com/News_Files/Food/storing_eggs.html

I doubt the turbo is the cause since at idle the engine really doesn't need it... But the fact you turn on the A/C and let out the clutch and it dies is not good. I wonder how much load the A/C is putting on the engine?

Compression check?Like JL Welding a while back had a similar miss and it turned out to be something in the cylinder either a cracked piston or a failed rings. I'm not say this is your problem but it worth looking into checking the cylinder health after 850K miles.

Dang... I should of posted this... As for the fuel pressure is sent down to the nozzle lift the pintle against the spring once the VP44 moves on to the next the pressure fades and closed against the spring. This all happens very rapidly.

The only way I know to impact EGT's is to have more drag than usual.

Prefect video of it... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aGwV9ueHcz4 1989-1993 1st Gen (VE Rotary injection pump)1994-1998 2nd Gen (P7100 Inline injection pump)1998.5-2002 2nd Gen (VP44 Rotary electronic injection pump)2003-Current 3rd and 4th Gen (Common rail injection)

Once again when hooking up a external regulator you still using the blue with (12V key power) and the greeen wire is used on the the external regulator too. The green wire is cut loose from the old PCM. At this point you'll get a P0622 error code because the PCM should sense no changes in the field voltage. But if the PCM regulator is truly dead then it might not even throw the code. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/134-voltage-regulator-mod

JL you know you're covered... APPS adjustment (Voltage) http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/37-apps-sensor-voltage-adjustment APPS reset http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/35-apps-sensor-replacement-procedure P0122 Error code http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/151-p0122-apps-sensor-signal-voltage-too-low

Ad http://www.lhmopars.com/MOPAR_Ads/78mgnmad2.html Here check this out... http://brotherscott.org/maya.htm

The last gent I talk to did the fuse trick and found out the alternator is bad. Then replaced in a short order of a few day start acting funny again. Pull the fuse sure enough the problem went away. Took the second alternator back and had the store bench test it. Sure enough diodes failed the test. I'm waiting for him to get back with me on the article he's got video and a proceedure drawn up for this...

No it doesn't. I just disconnect the charge line because if you kill the voltage regulator you lose the entire PCM and you would have massive amount of error codes and be running limp mode.