Mopar1973Man

I resemble that comment...

Indeed... That is a slick fuse block for exactly what you want to do. Just make sure you master bus line is capable of the total amount of AMPs in that fuse block. So if you got 5, 5, 10, 20 you need a cable capble of 40 amp load which I listed above.

Turbo is possible but you need to pull the line to the intercooler and see if there is oil in it.

Yours is a Norcold isn't it? There should be a mode setting for LP to force it on propane. I typically leave in on LP unless I'm hooked up to AC then I use Auto so when the power drops away fridge flips to LP modes on its own.

Passed thru Riggins, ID again today...Diesel $3.929Gas $3.869Then saw the sign at Hoot's Cafe near Whitebird, ID and about fell over...Diesel $4.599 (Holy Cow talk about back stabin')

Like what are you looking for? Xgauges http://www.scangauge.com/support/x-gauge-commands/ User Manuals http://www.scangauge.com/support/user-manuals/

Neat little volt meters...

Welcome To the Family! Now I need some information from you...* Do you have any error codes? Check with OBDII code reader.* What your fuel pressure like? (Idle and WOT at highway speed)

Southbend Con OFE here...But remember if you have oversized tires the amount of torque will be higher at the flywheel than the wheels. Hence why I'm running smaller tires so the tires will spin before the clutch slips.

You want the 3/4" for boost. The 1/2" is for coolant temp...

It really hard to cool VP44 electronics when the electronics are wrap in plastic on 3 side and the bottom side facing the fuel is aluminium. Like I found as long as you keep the fuel pressure between 14-20 PSI the electronics stay happy while running. Now as for when you park you truck. It meaningless kind of. Like taking a laptop computer and tossing in in the back seat on a hot summers day and locking up the truck. The cab of the truck will get to 130-140*F easy. The laptop will feel no harm as long as if left off. Now if you fire up the truck the fuel will start flowing instantly cooling the electronics so there is very little time the electronics would operate in a heated environment. But if the fuel system wasn't able to get above 14 PSI it like turning on that laptop inside the truck at 130-140*F that will kill a VP44 or Laptop.Everyone assumes Idaho has mild summer and super cold winters... Just yesterday we made 90*F here at the house and it most likely 100*F in Riggins, ID. Nothing new here. I've seen days of 120*F in Riggins, ID... :wow:My VP44 is closing into 150K miles and still going strong...

Drain all your coolant and just remove the cooler from the side of the block.That why I don't really think it the oil cooler right off because the coolant should of been leaking first before the oil. But I could be wrong...

2003 to current date have solenoid on top or Common Rail Injectors...

I was out studying up some more and ran across this little article that is spot on for newbies that want to transfer over to Ubuntu Linux but are scared here read this article... http://www.psychocats.net/ubuntucat/a-home-users-successful-migration-strategy-from-windows-to-ubuntu/

Here is my setup... Then here is a video about setting it up... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=M33ZCc8b-7Q Grease gun line will not protect against water hammer but the needle valve will... Snubbers or OK but tend to see some failures yet because some snubber tend to be drill to big. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kl2pa7pmES4 * AirDog 150 * Edge Comp set to kill (5x5) * BHAF * Straight piped 3" Exhaust * Stock HX35 turbo * IAT fooler set to 143*F * RV275 Injectors The biggest killer is speed the faster you travel the worse it gets... Large tires will degrade MPG's I'm running 235/85 R16

+12 Volt battery lead is just a direct single wire to the battery with a fuse.+12 Volt switched lead is using a relay to trigger power from a second wire from the battery with a fuse.Panel lighting is a tapped lead into the radio adapter I'm using for my Kenwood MP3 player.Ground lead is of course a lead back to the ground terminal on the battery.As for gauge size and fuses...10 AWG = 55 Amps12 AWG = 40 Amps14 AWG = 30 Amps16 AWG = 20 Amps18 AWG = 15 Amps20 AWG = 10 Amps22 AWG = 5 AmpsSo typically people wire with 16 AWG wire so you use a 20 amp fuse for your main bus lines to the battery.

Talk to JL Welding he's welder on the site with lots of good tools... :smart:Then you might try Prowelder but I've not seen him in a coons age...

This is my way...Use a terminal block for attaching all your accessories in one spot. Like in this old picture...Top down..1. +12V Battery2. +12V Switchwed3. Panel lighting (not shown)4. Ground

You must be talking about the oil cooler? Or is it the turbo drain line down lower?

I don't think your going to see much change really... I know there is dual intake horn setup I think by BD that has a new intake manifold plate and 2 intake horns. Also I think it only works on 12V's... But this idea would get better flow than spool aid... http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQd4PM3U3P85luNJBKAn3Y3sp-NdCOP7cUvionszlgGGpBK4hI_z4tfKcE0

Pics pics...!!!!

Riggins, ID is at $3.929... Little drop...

If it was me I would replace all the tubing under the hood with new vinyl tubing from a hardware store and not look back.

Not really there is no way to access the vacuum lines unless you pull the dash back in the passenger side. Sorry John...

Thank you...