Mopar1973Man

Wow... Those are nice tents but nothing much said about how hard to set up... The canvas tent might be a good challenge to setup. I've been use to the smaller nylon tents with 2 poles where you can stand it up in a matter of minutes by yourself. But as for your large family I don't know what to say but since they are there you should have the man/woman power to get it put up.Might have to consider the travel trailer again and see what you can find used / fixer up condition...

212 inch/pounds or 17.6 foot/pounds. I won't consider even tightening that much... So what I'm saying is I agree with just snug comment! Little difference between foot/pounds and inch/pounds. Just like ruler there is 12 inch/pounds to 1 foot/pound...

According to the Dodge FSM it states 212 inch/pounds for thermostat housing. I would never tighten them that much even. I just use a 8mm socket on a 1/4 inch nut driver handle that all. (No ratchet).

Just like this... Both my 96 and 02 respond the same way. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=UveGtGuswBw So if there is more than 0.1 VAC then I would consider the next step of having the alternator bench tested. The bench tester has be capable of testing diode wave pattern. Like other old bench testers just check for VDC output voltage and if it mark the alternator was good. With all the electronic vehicles the alternator has to be clean power now. I know like my local NAPA upgrade to the newer bench tester and can check diode patterns.

Glowshift gauges go back and forth. Some think they are just cheap china products and other love them because at least it a set of gauges and didn't cost a arm and a leg to get. Then at least glowshift gauges sells the senders for the fuel pressure gauges for $19 bucks so replacement is tough either if you damage a sender.

Ok... Something I can toss out there in regards to batteries then... For AAA batteries... http://www.harborfreight.com/4-pack-nicd-rechargeable-aaa-batteries-47439.html For AA batteries... http://www.harborfreight.com/4-pack-nicd-rechargeable-aa-batteries-47440.html Much cheaper than buying AA or AAA name brand batteries and they are re-chargeable...

Correct. Even on RockAuto.com the note in the ball joint listing that up/down movement is normal.

Also don't leave them on the ground so you can run them over... I now wind them up in a roll so they store nicely and don't turn into a knotted mess.

How about RockAuto.Com I found one for about $60 bucks... http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1913828

Well I can give you this much for food.Weather around here jumped up to about 85-95*F and I unplugged my rheostat on the IAT and hooked up the IAT sensor again to play with ideas. My last trip to Boise, ID I pulled 24.5 MPG round trip with hot weather. Then today I had a take trip up to Donnelly, ID weather was cold 44*F and light raining off and on. Well the rain pretty much stopped and still the weather continued to be cold 44-48*F most of the day. My MPG now fell from 24.5 from the Boise trip to 20.5 on today's trip. Cold air tend to degrade MPG's when using the IAT... Time to get my switch built...

I typically buy my ratchet straps at WalMart of all weird places but typically I look at the webbing and how thick the metal is on the ratchet. There is a few things I'm a bit picky about... Straps are one...

I tried ours out last night in the kitchen and its bright enough to move around in the house and light up enough area to see by. It's not a spot light but a defused area light. I also noticed there is a plug on the base for using a charger which is sold separately which I just might pick up too...

As for isolators to gauge that cannot have air bubbles... Remember if you have a low pressure problem always pull the isolator out and retest with just the gauge hooked up and 99% of the time you'll find the isolator causing the low pressure display.Now if it was direct plumbed its not as critical but the numbers are always more accurate.

Failed diodes... Alternator is damaged... VAC side should show less than 0.100 volts. My two truck so typically 0.011 to 0.019 VAC...

The formula can be used for either dually or single. Just got to remember when your figuring for duals there is 2 tires holding up the weight.As for the unloaded value I would bump to 40 PSI for the rear. But once again that is here say for numbers...front axle 4,400 poundsRear axle 2,860 poundsTypical Load range E tire is 3042 single @ 80 PSI(4400 / 2) / 3042) x 80 = 57 PSI front (60 PSI front)(2860 / 2) / 3042) x 80 = 37 PSI rear (40 PSI rear)Now trailer loaded.(4040 / 2) / 3042) x 80 = 53 PSI front (60 PSI front) - This offset is from my weight dist bars.(4280 / 2) / 3042) x 80 = 56 PSI rear (60 PSI rear)Now on my Voma Solid Trac Load Range G's which carry 3750 pounds at 110 PSI(4040 / 2) / 3750) x 110 = 59 PSI Front (60 PSI front)(4280 / 2) / 3750) x 110 = 63 PSI Rear (70 PSI rear)Really does help when you have actual weighs to work with. Because guessing at weight number tend to screw with the formula big time. All the (xx PSI) are what I actually inflate to for my purpose. I tend to round up to the next whole ten pounds. Just a few extra PSI isn't going to screw it up but when hauling heavy I prefer a solid tire over a mushy tire. But in the same sense there is no need to run the tire pressure all the way to MAX inflation. Just with the rears at 70 PSI its a very rough ride... :ahhh:Also take notice the front axle really never changes much at all. It the rear axle pressure that goes up and down all the time.This is set at 60 PSI front and 60 PSI rear...

Perfect... That exactly what you want. But in the OP's case he would run once with the trailer and another without to still get the pin weight. Then subtract both rear axles weights to fine the pin weight.

Been there, done that...

Yes the topper helps a bunch. My topper is nothing more than a beer can. I weighs less than 100 pounds and I can lift it off by myself. This so sweet because it keeps aerodynamics and the topper weight is near nothing. Everything I've done for my truck is in regards to MPG efficiency. I can careless if my tires look too small or my truck isn't tall enough or am I making enough HP/TQ to compete with CF, DTR, etc... As long as my truck hauls the load from point A to Point B and returns back to Point A with good MPG's I'm happy. Then If I can continue to do it every day without failures thats even better!

Like yesterday I set out for a trip down to Boise, ID to hit Harbor Freight picking up heavy duty garden hose and such. Left home drove down US95 picked up fuel at Maverik in Payette, ID for 3.889 a gallon. Then proceed on the US 52 over to Emmett, ID and came in the back way of Garden City. By the time I hit Garden City I was just tipping 25 MPG on the ScanGauge II. The whole time of driving around Boise I was holding 24.5 MPG and not changing even with all the stop and go traffic for a Sunday. Finished up and we went up US55. Here is where I lost some of my nice high number by the time I reached Cascade, ID I was down to 23.0 MPG. But then I had a nice downhill run from McCall, ID to home so when I pulled in the yard I was right at 24.5 MPG... Not bad for doing the loop... http://goo.gl/maps/UzG9

Hex response was kind of funny....:lol:But seriously it might be a loose connection, broken wire, or bad probe. Being that both probes and wiring are fairly cheap I would consider just replacing both and go forward...

JL how bad are you current rotors? Might consider just having them turned.

Pin weight in back in post #4...Also you might keep in mind your GAWR for front and rears too...

Dually weight on your rear axle... There is 2 tires mount on one axle.Single weight on your front axle... There is 1 tire mounted on one axle.Single weights are typically higher. (Don't ask I'm not sure why? )

Ok... A for rear axle weight I'm right at 2,860 dry weight in the truck and full fuel tank.But it would be best to weight hitched up and again just the truck. Weigh your front axle, rear axle, trailer axle and a total weight. I usual find a close truck scale, farm co-op, or a public scale and get my weights. No getting these weights might be tough or difficult depending on the size of scale pad. I've seen both small singles and large singles then seen multiple large pads.Typically I would weight the front axle (stop), pull up weigh the rear axle with the front (stop), then pull up and get a total with trailer...You should be able to do some math and separate the weights.Front will be right on...Rear axle will be minus the front on the second number...Total truck weight is the second number...Total truck minus total GCW will be the trailer axle.Now after you come back and scale again without the trailer is easy. Front (stop), total (stop), rear (stop)...Now with the rear weight now and the rear weight with trailer minus the numbers and you'll have your pin weight.Hopefully this helps...

Ok... Let keep a open mid to several things that might occur in a VP44.* Alternator noise killing the VP44 (Possible to kill the electronics with AC voltage?)* Vibration (possible but unlikely being the circuit board is encased in gel)* Wide range heating and cooling cycles * Wide range of heating and cooling cycle from lack of fuel flowSince I found that next joker in the deck of cards being dirty electrical feeding could possibly bring the other error codes on. (Not proven absolute yet but possible!) But how do we all know if the codes are from AC noise, vibration, heat/cool, etc. We don't! All we can do is listen to guys like Chip that toss out information.