Mopar1973Man

This is what I use to get soot and grease off...

Boost fooler and boost elbow will gain nothing because the fuel Map only goes to 20 PSI basically so even though you extend the boost pressure there is still stock fuel rates. So power level will be the same. Your going to need to add fuel one way or another to gain power.

HX35W turbo would be a bigger upgrade than the exhaust. Remember I'm still 3" without issues even hauling trailers. So I would point the finger more so at the turbo before the exhaust.

I've got a local gent here that is completely stock at 93K miles. Fuel pressure is 13-14 at idle and 9-10 at WOT. He's also got the P0216 code it still runs but occasional dead pedal issue or low power. No white smoke or hard starts.

Cam tone wheels changed during the loss of the crank sensor. Cam has to be changed if trying to retro fit from crank/cam to cam only.

Drums changed at 2001.5 and went to disc brakes.

Another tidbit HX35W turbos will fit all Dodge Ram Truck from 1989 to 2002. Direct swap part. :whistle:Hmmm... HY35W might be a good one for the old 1st gen wih smaller HP numbers.

55 MPH is roughly 1.5 to 2 PSI boost. 60 MPH is roughly 2.5 to 3 PSI boost.55 MPH towing trailer now that jumps to 7-10 PSI.

If the stock lift pump lead is left unhooked it will throw a P0230 but there is no harm in that code being thrown and it will not limp mode the truck.

Just remember anything that does NOT tap the VP44 is limited to 60-65 HP...Any that does tap the VP44 can now rise about the 60-65 HP lmit to 120-180 HP. You'll also find that boxes that tap the VP44 have a wider range of timing, fueling, etc.

Fuel pressure?

Crank sensor come apart? Crank tone wheel coming loose?

"There is no such thing as a free lunch"That being said you can't produce a fuel using a alternator/battery and expect the fuel energy to be greater than the load that it put on the engine to produce said fuel.

Welcome to the family even from the frozen north. Just be careful playing in the sandbox you might find a cat turd or two.. (Ewwwww)

No it doesn't know I just found a GPS thread onm a RV site I'll see if I can find it again...

I'm the same way...Fuel Tank -> AirDog 150 -> Stock fuel filter / heater -> VP44Only a 2-3 PSI drop typically.

Could you explain how this is done? Not to hijack the OP thread but I think it would be good know for all reading.

Not really. Remember I run winter front on my truck so no wind blows through the intercooler without any issues with outside temp as high as 50-55*F. But still in all you shouldn't have oil in the intake because if the seal does give up you'll have a runaway engine to deal with.

I would suggest you take it into to a alignment shop and have them double check everything.

Here is a formula on tire pressure. You need axle weight and itre information from the side wall. ((Axle Weight / 2) / Tire Weight capacity) x Tire Pressure Capacity = Inflation pressure My front axle weight is 4,440# Typical Load range E's 3,042# at 80 PSI ((4,440 / 2) = 2,220 / 3,042 ) = 0.72 x 80 = 58 PSI (Round up to 60) That simple. So doing the math on 4,440 and 2,860 for front and rear I typically inflate to 60 front and 40 in the rear. Hauling trailers its 60 front and 60 in the rear.

Wouldn't it be easier to use... http://www.lonewolf-software.com/automotivewolf.htm

There is lots of family members coing and going little different from CF.com and other sites. But welcome to the family.

Shouldn't be any limitations. :shrug:I'm curious whats your fuel pressure (idle and WOT) and error codes if any? I've been starting my morning at 37-45*F already and getting high temps of maybe 75-80*F.

Seperated your post for you. :thumbup2:As for the wheel and tire combo I'm running 16 x 7 Aluminium Mag Rims and 235 / 85 R16 tires which weigh 62# a piece.

The overhead console can be removed by squeezing the 2 tabs pulling down slightly then sliding either forward or backward can't remember. Just be nice to overhead its plastic and getting rather old.