Mopar1973Man

As far as empty buildings. I can go to New Meadows, ID proper and get pictures of a brand new building that be vacant since the start. I can show you lots of empty shops and empty lots that the owners dozed the building to save on property taxes. Starting you own business... Well your right its tough to do that but very rewarding. Like business I started in 2002 and let it die in about 2009 was Cloud 10 Computers where I built custom computers for the locals and maintained them as well. Times went on I could see the handwriting on the wall and shifted gears toward web design and management and now continue on... So having your own business you got to be watching the trends and being aware of what the local economy can afford. Like since there is no one around locally for Air Conditioning I do that all summer long for vehicles. Then towards the late summer and fall I get into selling firewood for the locals. So I'm a man of many hats but always find a way to put a bit of money in my pockets. My pockets are not deep by any means but I'm holding my own...

That looks like a older rotor where you got to pull the entire hub to change them out... http://www.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imagekey=3868551&imageurl=http%3A//www.rockauto.com/info/Pronto/BR5593_F_04_04_08.jpg

I could tell a heck of a story about my College Degree and before I left California. But it would do no good the trade I went to College for is no longer valid I paid over $55,000 for and times have changed. I basically hold a worthless degree now. :banghead:What degree do I have? Bachelor Electronic Science... When I went to school the first 8088 IBM processor where just coming out and transistor electronics where still very popular IC chips where just starting out too. The 8088 processor is long gone.So all my knowledge now is self taught taking time every day to keep studying on Computers, Software, Hardware, Networking, Web Design, Cummins Diesel, Mopar Engines, etc. I don't hold a degree in anything modern today but what good would it do being next year it will be obsolete again.

That's why I bailed ship and moved over to Linux. I got tired of all the extra software to make you system perform well and protect it from hackers, virus, malware, etc. All of this cost system resources to load up Norton Internet Security, TuneUp Utilities, Peerblock, etc. With Linux you don't need all these programs any longer. Linux doesn't require anti-virus, defragmenting, tuneups, etc. It just works good! But there is a few Windows Apps I still want to continue to use like my Automotive Wolf, Some of my Web Design stuff, etc.So I've been doing the flip-flop shutting down one and rebooting to another. So now with Oracle VirtualBox I can now fire up some of these favorite programs yet and not have to flip-flop booting to get it done.

I personally would think harsh northern winters would be worse on a VP44 going from -40*F to 190*F (assuming the VP44 could heat soak this much) which is a 230 degree difference from cold starting to full engine temp. But now there is a issue with a VP44 when it goes only 90*F ??? I figure with the huge span of expansion and contraction the circuit board and soldier joint would break much more during the winter that the summer?Here is my minimum, average and maximum temperatures for Riggins, ID (local town)

The Smarty UDC would be a awesome tool in the right hands for tuning... But the problem I see coming is the puppies (teenagers) out there will turn up the fuel to max for smoke value.Beyond that it will take some sit down study time to do a good tune for your conditions.

If there is a charging issue it affects both batteries. Most likely the brushes in the alternator were wore out.

Always tickled me to no end now that summer is here everyone worries about figuring out how to cool a VP44. Then some of us only have about 3-4 months of hot weather and the go back into the freezer again.

Here is a good site to research Linux Distro's. There is hundreds of different version of Linux out there. http://distrowatch.com/ Ubuntu is the easiest I know of for a newbie to try out. If you want you can reversre the VirtualBox and install it on your Windows Machine and do a Virtual Ubuntu if you wish. This will give you time to test drive Linux and what version you want without format hard drives. Oracle VirtualBox is pretty neat because it create a virtual hard drive as well. Like my create Windows install is a virtual 20GB drive virtual 1.5 GB RAM. Since Linux is a multi-desktop environment I can move windows to its own desktop and continue within Linux... At this point I can drag and drop windows or porgrams to any of the 4 desktops I wish. Or I can grab the middle mouse button and flip desktops and go back and forth between Windows or Linux. Just tell me that Windows 8 is better... Go on...

How about running two operation systems and having Windows Vista x64 with Ubuntu Linux 12.04? Well I've done it. I'm now capable of going back and forth between both operating system without rebooting! * Ubuntu Linux 12.04 x64 * Windows Vista x64 Ultimate running within Oracle VirtualBox. Now what I've learned about this is Windows is a pig when it comes to CPU power constantly pulling on the CPU and memory thankfully I've got the ability of throttling how much this virtual machine get for resources from the Linux. But I got to admit it cool to be able to use Windows for those odd ball programs that you can't find a Linux version. Also it allows me to still run IE browser for web site testing yet... Hey Rogan I'm really loving the Linux now...

Actually you got water or liquid in the plug of the WIF light... Use compressed air and blow it out then use a zip tie and plastic bag and cover it over and zip tie the plastic bag on.

Some say you can see the oil coming out the back of the turbo. The housing will be wet looking after like starting up driving easy and shutting down... But that's the best I can give...

Turbo seals are leaking... It would be pumping the oil into the exhaust pipe. As for 2 cycle oil no it will not leave a oily residue on the tip of the exhaust pipe because its completely consumed in the burn.Another thought... Are you having issues starting?

Hmmm... I was hoping was was AC noise. Dang! :banghead:As for head gasket leak if you has a small one it would build coolant pressure near instantly. Or have excessive blow by and oil loss... Unless its leaking between cylinders then the only way to see it would be a compression test.Also checking my lowest coolant temp as for coasting long distance down hill it will cool down to 184-186*F and sit till the EGT's rise again...I still say there is something wrong there with the sensor / wiring it should jump that fast. As for my truck it takes nearly 3 miles to go from 195*F to 205*F on a 7% grade.

Could you provide a bit more information on how you do this? Maybe some pictures, details,etc... Be nice to add this to the collection of information!

Rogan right. In the PDC box there is a fuse near the heavy red and black wires that has a fuse held by two phillips screws. Just remove the screw and take a ride and see if it calms down if it does settle down you now a candidate for the TQ Conv lock up thread... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/5937-Torque-Converter-Lock-Unlock-Issues About 2 seconds as well...

Ryan after watching both videos I tend to believe you might be seeing noise of some sort the way the temp jumps up and down so rapidily. Mine just drifts back and forth 191-195*F...Would you be willing to pull the alternator fuse just for a wild idea test and see if it stabilizes???

Here we go with the video... NAPA 190*F thermostat... Fresh thermostat with every coolant change. http://youtu.be/IvTDLZ80Fnw

Wow! I always was told the clutch required a special tool to remove even the FSM shows it...

Also has to do with the ribbon cable that goes down inside the pump for speed sensor and fuel sensor... Really hard to extend a ribbon cable and shield it from noise and mechanical damage. Like today Riggins, ID was easy 100*F outside. Temperatures don't seem to bother the VP44 or me really. Kind of looking at it this way. Engine has a cooling system where the water moves around and the cylinders and head and returns to the radiator for cooling. The VP44 is similar because as long as the fuel pressure is 14-20 PSI the fuel continues to move pass the electronics and pull the heat from it. But now reduce your fuel pressure below 14 PSI it like taking the belt off the water pump. Eventually the VP44 will overheat (electronics).

Special puller is required to change a clutch as far as I know. As for testing it there is much that I know of for test other than replacement.

(Video coming! Give me a bit to process!)

Take a lazer temp gun and shoot the ECT sensor and the thermostat housing (block).The Ultra Gauge and Dash gauge will be no better than the ECM / ECT Sensor accuracy.

Remember the ECM controls the lift pump circuit. Then also remember there is no fuel pressure sensor on these trucks so there is no way for the ECM to see pressure. Rare but it does happen when you turn the key on and have the pump run a full 25 second prime cycle. Today was you day...I'm normally a stickler about keeping hydrated and fed.

You might have to test and see if the A/C clutch is actually seeing 12 volt signal. If it is and the clutch is not snapping down tight and twisting with the pulley then the clutch might be bad or the clutch electro-magnet might of failed.