Mopar1973Man

Stepping up on my soap box... I have a hard time with EPA emission testing. Back in the day when I lived in California I had to smog my 73 Dodge Charger every year for registration. Every year I would put everything back to stock layout, vacuum lines, etc. Car ran terrible, MPG's went down, performance went down, but it would barely pass testing. :banghead: One day I got crazy and put all my mods back on the car and tuned it my way and got a hold of friend that worked the testing shop. Had him re-run the test without any smog equipment on the car and tuned my way. Guess what?! It past with flying colors. MPG's where better and so way the performance. What I done made a gasket for the EGR without the holes, disconnected the OSAC valve on the firewall (vacuum adv) and hooked the vacuum advance to ported vacuum on the carb, changed the distributor weights for fast timing advancement, reset the preload spring in the vacuum advance diaphragm, set the timing to 10* BTDC, etc. So what this proved to me is... That as long as the vehicle is running with good economy (MPG's) then your emissions should be low. Ok. So now to the diesel world. Everyone knows what I've got under the hood. Yes my setup can and will smoke when you work the truck. But still and all a bit of soot means nothing because I don't drive around choking out black smoke for miles but maybe for a second or two as I'm rowing gears and towing. I can keep 20+ MPG most of the time so I would gamble to say my truck most likely have very little emissions (NOx, etc.) As for soot yeah I've got a bit but if I'm using less fuel then the emissions should be less too. Off my soap box now...

Sorry I'm late to the party... :banghead:Ok I can give you this much. You can disconnect most all sensor on the engine and it still start and run without them. ECT, APPS, MAP, IAT, and I think that its... As for your fuel system what is your fuel pressure when you bump the starter? Do you happen to have a fuel pressure gauge?

http://gosperformance.com/shop/ TH Racing (vendor on the site here) Diesel Auto Power another vendor here on the site) - doubtful? Most all performance diesel shops have stuff laying around...

Here you go a older post of it... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/1922-Temp-Gauge

Just like on the Cummins I just flush with water... Nothing more. Put in a fresh thermostat and fresh coolant 50/50 mixture.

You could call around some of the vendor you might find a used exhaust housing from when people upgrade turbo parts. Exhaust housing can be replace as a separate part. That should save some money...

Are both of you (OP and Dripley) using signal amplifiers for the gauges? If so that might be what's wrong.

Face of the radiator filled with bugs and plugged up?

As you see in the pic below I've got rust on parts but nothing like Dobbienut... Yes Idaho uses plenty of salt and Mag-Cloride for the roads so I got a weekly wash schedule for my truck so I can keep the oxidation down as much as possible. Geez... That is gone... You'll be looking for parts at a wrecking yard.

Next time the torque converter lock and unlock problem pops up try the removing the alternator fuse.

Dang... I gather this is rust damage right? :shrug:Pics!!!

Smart idea!

LMC truck?

...so that the 1/4 turn before it breaks loose it goes SNAP!

Water is like electricity it want to find the easiest path without restrictions. Since you added a extra hose from the supply to the return line it like shorting across positive and negative terminals. In theory but time will tell this winter...

I kind of wonder what the heater performance in the dead of winter will be like now? Being that the heater core is technically bypassed.

Wow... Those are nice tents but nothing much said about how hard to set up... The canvas tent might be a good challenge to setup. I've been use to the smaller nylon tents with 2 poles where you can stand it up in a matter of minutes by yourself. But as for your large family I don't know what to say but since they are there you should have the man/woman power to get it put up.Might have to consider the travel trailer again and see what you can find used / fixer up condition...

212 inch/pounds or 17.6 foot/pounds. I won't consider even tightening that much... So what I'm saying is I agree with just snug comment! Little difference between foot/pounds and inch/pounds. Just like ruler there is 12 inch/pounds to 1 foot/pound...

According to the Dodge FSM it states 212 inch/pounds for thermostat housing. I would never tighten them that much even. I just use a 8mm socket on a 1/4 inch nut driver handle that all. (No ratchet).

Just like this... Both my 96 and 02 respond the same way. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=UveGtGuswBw So if there is more than 0.1 VAC then I would consider the next step of having the alternator bench tested. The bench tester has be capable of testing diode wave pattern. Like other old bench testers just check for VDC output voltage and if it mark the alternator was good. With all the electronic vehicles the alternator has to be clean power now. I know like my local NAPA upgrade to the newer bench tester and can check diode patterns.

Glowshift gauges go back and forth. Some think they are just cheap china products and other love them because at least it a set of gauges and didn't cost a arm and a leg to get. Then at least glowshift gauges sells the senders for the fuel pressure gauges for $19 bucks so replacement is tough either if you damage a sender.

Ok... Something I can toss out there in regards to batteries then... For AAA batteries... http://www.harborfreight.com/4-pack-nicd-rechargeable-aaa-batteries-47439.html For AA batteries... http://www.harborfreight.com/4-pack-nicd-rechargeable-aa-batteries-47440.html Much cheaper than buying AA or AAA name brand batteries and they are re-chargeable...

Correct. Even on RockAuto.com the note in the ball joint listing that up/down movement is normal.

Also don't leave them on the ground so you can run them over... I now wind them up in a roll so they store nicely and don't turn into a knotted mess.