Mopar1973Man

How about RockAuto.Com I found one for about $60 bucks... http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1913828

Well I can give you this much for food.Weather around here jumped up to about 85-95*F and I unplugged my rheostat on the IAT and hooked up the IAT sensor again to play with ideas. My last trip to Boise, ID I pulled 24.5 MPG round trip with hot weather. Then today I had a take trip up to Donnelly, ID weather was cold 44*F and light raining off and on. Well the rain pretty much stopped and still the weather continued to be cold 44-48*F most of the day. My MPG now fell from 24.5 from the Boise trip to 20.5 on today's trip. Cold air tend to degrade MPG's when using the IAT... Time to get my switch built...

I typically buy my ratchet straps at WalMart of all weird places but typically I look at the webbing and how thick the metal is on the ratchet. There is a few things I'm a bit picky about... Straps are one...

I tried ours out last night in the kitchen and its bright enough to move around in the house and light up enough area to see by. It's not a spot light but a defused area light. I also noticed there is a plug on the base for using a charger which is sold separately which I just might pick up too...

As for isolators to gauge that cannot have air bubbles... Remember if you have a low pressure problem always pull the isolator out and retest with just the gauge hooked up and 99% of the time you'll find the isolator causing the low pressure display.Now if it was direct plumbed its not as critical but the numbers are always more accurate.

Failed diodes... Alternator is damaged... VAC side should show less than 0.100 volts. My two truck so typically 0.011 to 0.019 VAC...

The formula can be used for either dually or single. Just got to remember when your figuring for duals there is 2 tires holding up the weight.As for the unloaded value I would bump to 40 PSI for the rear. But once again that is here say for numbers...front axle 4,400 poundsRear axle 2,860 poundsTypical Load range E tire is 3042 single @ 80 PSI(4400 / 2) / 3042) x 80 = 57 PSI front (60 PSI front)(2860 / 2) / 3042) x 80 = 37 PSI rear (40 PSI rear)Now trailer loaded.(4040 / 2) / 3042) x 80 = 53 PSI front (60 PSI front) - This offset is from my weight dist bars.(4280 / 2) / 3042) x 80 = 56 PSI rear (60 PSI rear)Now on my Voma Solid Trac Load Range G's which carry 3750 pounds at 110 PSI(4040 / 2) / 3750) x 110 = 59 PSI Front (60 PSI front)(4280 / 2) / 3750) x 110 = 63 PSI Rear (70 PSI rear)Really does help when you have actual weighs to work with. Because guessing at weight number tend to screw with the formula big time. All the (xx PSI) are what I actually inflate to for my purpose. I tend to round up to the next whole ten pounds. Just a few extra PSI isn't going to screw it up but when hauling heavy I prefer a solid tire over a mushy tire. But in the same sense there is no need to run the tire pressure all the way to MAX inflation. Just with the rears at 70 PSI its a very rough ride... :ahhh:Also take notice the front axle really never changes much at all. It the rear axle pressure that goes up and down all the time.This is set at 60 PSI front and 60 PSI rear...

Perfect... That exactly what you want. But in the OP's case he would run once with the trailer and another without to still get the pin weight. Then subtract both rear axles weights to fine the pin weight.

Been there, done that...

Yes the topper helps a bunch. My topper is nothing more than a beer can. I weighs less than 100 pounds and I can lift it off by myself. This so sweet because it keeps aerodynamics and the topper weight is near nothing. Everything I've done for my truck is in regards to MPG efficiency. I can careless if my tires look too small or my truck isn't tall enough or am I making enough HP/TQ to compete with CF, DTR, etc... As long as my truck hauls the load from point A to Point B and returns back to Point A with good MPG's I'm happy. Then If I can continue to do it every day without failures thats even better!

Like yesterday I set out for a trip down to Boise, ID to hit Harbor Freight picking up heavy duty garden hose and such. Left home drove down US95 picked up fuel at Maverik in Payette, ID for 3.889 a gallon. Then proceed on the US 52 over to Emmett, ID and came in the back way of Garden City. By the time I hit Garden City I was just tipping 25 MPG on the ScanGauge II. The whole time of driving around Boise I was holding 24.5 MPG and not changing even with all the stop and go traffic for a Sunday. Finished up and we went up US55. Here is where I lost some of my nice high number by the time I reached Cascade, ID I was down to 23.0 MPG. But then I had a nice downhill run from McCall, ID to home so when I pulled in the yard I was right at 24.5 MPG... Not bad for doing the loop... http://goo.gl/maps/UzG9

Hex response was kind of funny....:lol:But seriously it might be a loose connection, broken wire, or bad probe. Being that both probes and wiring are fairly cheap I would consider just replacing both and go forward...

JL how bad are you current rotors? Might consider just having them turned.

Pin weight in back in post #4...Also you might keep in mind your GAWR for front and rears too...

Dually weight on your rear axle... There is 2 tires mount on one axle.Single weight on your front axle... There is 1 tire mounted on one axle.Single weights are typically higher. (Don't ask I'm not sure why? )

Ok... A for rear axle weight I'm right at 2,860 dry weight in the truck and full fuel tank.But it would be best to weight hitched up and again just the truck. Weigh your front axle, rear axle, trailer axle and a total weight. I usual find a close truck scale, farm co-op, or a public scale and get my weights. No getting these weights might be tough or difficult depending on the size of scale pad. I've seen both small singles and large singles then seen multiple large pads.Typically I would weight the front axle (stop), pull up weigh the rear axle with the front (stop), then pull up and get a total with trailer...You should be able to do some math and separate the weights.Front will be right on...Rear axle will be minus the front on the second number...Total truck weight is the second number...Total truck minus total GCW will be the trailer axle.Now after you come back and scale again without the trailer is easy. Front (stop), total (stop), rear (stop)...Now with the rear weight now and the rear weight with trailer minus the numbers and you'll have your pin weight.Hopefully this helps...

Ok... Let keep a open mid to several things that might occur in a VP44.* Alternator noise killing the VP44 (Possible to kill the electronics with AC voltage?)* Vibration (possible but unlikely being the circuit board is encased in gel)* Wide range heating and cooling cycles * Wide range of heating and cooling cycle from lack of fuel flowSince I found that next joker in the deck of cards being dirty electrical feeding could possibly bring the other error codes on. (Not proven absolute yet but possible!) But how do we all know if the codes are from AC noise, vibration, heat/cool, etc. We don't! All we can do is listen to guys like Chip that toss out information.

Alignment issues? :shrug:Was it between the wheel and hub?

First off your number are very dangerous... Lets get the information in one spot... Formula... (Axle weight / 2) / Tire Capacity weight ) x Tire Max Pressure = Inflation Pressure. Tire rating... Single 3,415 pounds @ 80 PSI Dual 3,085 pounds @ 80 PSI Assuming the 4,200 is your rear axle weight dry and we are going to calculate rear axle for a dually. (4,200 / 2) / 3,085) x 80 = 54.45 or say 55-60 PSI for the duals empty truck. Now adding assumed pin weight of 3,000 over the rear axle... (4,200 + 3000 / 2) = 3,600 pounds! (Tire rated for 3,085 pounds) (4,200 + 3000 / 2) / 3,085) = 116% (This number should never exceed 100% but for safety margin it shouldn't cross about 90-95% so you not killing the tires) DANGER! Your now in a very dangerous place. Your now over step the rating of the tire and I highly suggest you don't tow this load or you upgrade to a higher load range tires. Not to mention your rear axle weight might be getting close to its limits. I would highly consider weighing said trailer and find out the actual axle weight in total loaded. since the trailer and the load is unknown you might be capable of shifting the load off the pin by moving load rearward of the trailer axle. But once again I'm not sure what I'm working with.

Just about 90% of all Linux Distro's are FREE!!! Like no money, no cost, zip... http://distrowatch.com/ <- Check them all out! As for hardware compatibility I would do the Download the Ubuntu and burn it to a optical disk (CD or DVD) and then fire it up. Ubuntu allows for operation off a optical disk so you can test drive without ever format a drive or copying a file. Nice way to test drive to see if it works for you. Or like I showed you can download Oracle VirtualBox and install it in Windows and test drive it and see if there is any issues. Like my only issue I had was my printer. I didn't just give up I went back to Ubuntu's Forum and started reading and found a solution by installing a few extra files (Bam!) She working again. The is still a few weird flaws but I still get around them.

She has been alerted to the thread she'll be along shortly...

Engine oil and filterCoolant and ThermostatPower Steering Fluid (Flush both the steering box and the hydrobooster)Brake Fluid (this includes disassembly of the callipers and cleaning them out)Transmission Fluid (Auto or Manual)Gear lube in the axlesThen you know you started with a clean slate. I would allow extended drain times for all fluids and for flushing I would flush till the output is clean too. As for brakes I highly suggest disassembly of the callipers because just bleeding pushes all the debris in the bottom of the calliper and later on you'll have dragging brake problem. Don't ask how I know...

If the solder is the point then why isn't all the other electronics failing to this problem? ECM or PCM?PCM within inches of a hot exhaust that could be 1,200*F and ECM hung on a block that 190-200*F with coolant?

The biggest thing is because its open source code. In other word there is millions of eyes looking at the code fixing holes or security problems. About every 3-4 days there is a update for one of the packages on my computer. So even if someone wrote a virus for Linux in about 3-4 days the code would change and the virus would die. Then you might install Linux and place yourself as a Administrator. But you still not allow to do higher function unless you log in as a "sudo", super user, or root user. So like say for example I wanted to kill Conky process (blue box on the right of my screen) I would fire up terminal and type... sudo killall conky POOF! Gone... But if the command for sudo was skipped the system won't allow it. Or if your user rights are lower than Admin it system won't allow it. So like on Windows it just pops up a box ask do you want to do this and you just click. BOOM! If you were not paying attention you might of just install your virus. Or like in Windows 7 they allow you to shut off the notification box (Bad idea. Less secure). There is other things that make Linux rock solid being that most of the system files are owned by ROOT you can't modify them. So if your just surfing the web and attempt to take on a virus neither you or the virus have administrative rights to over right a system file so the virus just basically bounces off. So since I don't need a firewall/antivirus program like Norton's the system is much lighter. Not everything must be done through a terminal box. There is apps out there for the GUI to allow you do the same function with a GUI apps. Like for example typically all apps are installed through the terminal box but you could install Synaptic Package Manager or use Ubuntu Software Center. Lot of people have hard time dealing with going back to a DOS like environment to do administrative work. But like Rogan taught me early on that the terminal box will get so much more work done with out using a ton of system resources (no graphics or point and click). Well he's right I can jump from my computer right in to web server and bounce around taking care of internal web site stuff. Like there is commands for listing hardware and believe it or not but it give much more information about the hardware in Linux than in Windows! I'm still learning... Just my 2,000+ programs I've got installed... If you want to see what Ubuntu is up to you could sneak in and read the Ubuntu-devel-discuss Archives... https://lists.ubuntu.com/archives/ubuntu-devel-discuss/ Something you can't do with Apple or Microsoft. Since most all software is part of the Linux Community it has to meet there high standards. Being there is no hardware drivers (Yes. Hardware drivers are a thing of the past!) for Linux really there is less of a hole for hacker/viri to come through. Now like on my computer I do have 2 drivers 1 for my Nvidia Video card (Ubuntu Driver) and Canon 4100 printer driver (Canon) so my weak spot would be the Canon drive if any. Since most all software comes from the repository then you know its secure and Linux Community Authorized it. But if you download from another source then I would double check the checksum against the makers checksum to verify its real! Keep asking I answer what I can...

As for the castle nut I'm pretty sure its 1 11/16 like you said. I'd have to run out to the shop and look but it locked up for the night already. As for the shaft is a splined shaft so the hub is going to slide off the shaft. But as for removing the hub you got to pull the wheel bearings too. Be awhile since I've done this...