Mopar1973Man

Well it seem to never quit for me now I've got another web site to manage. This is a private web site for my fire dept and currently sharing a small part of the server. If the Salmon River Rural start to really using it they will take over the ownership on there own server. But here it is at... http://srrfd.mopar1973man.com It still rather raw. But this is going to hopefully soon have fire information of what going on up here in my local area.

Always... Excuse me... My hair is typically tied up neatly... I'll be back in one piece... It will be a very boring job from what I'm finding out. I'll be stationed at a road with a road closed sign and check all vehicle traffic in and out of the fire. 12 hour shifts of sitting around in the truck all day. So I better get my MP3 collection together, a few books to read, and lots of food to munch on. Where I'll be at there is no cellphone signal so that's out... Radio service is limited to. Still waiting for information to come down the pipe from the SAR's commander. Also informed my Fire Dept of the hat swap too.

I was just called tonight from Search and Rescue of Idaho County to do road closure for the fire areas. We are getting to many looky loo'ers driving up in the fire areas, etc. So I'm not sure when and where exactly yet but I'll be gone for 12 hour shifts for maybe 14 days. So I'll keep you all informed of what's happening...As for air quality here it nasty at times...

Also running a DiPricol mechanical fuel pressure gauge with air brake line. Never had any issues with line breaking in the cab and leaking. If air brake line is good enough for over the road trucks and has burst pressure around 600-800 PSI I doubt there will be a issue with using on a fuel pressure gauge if protected properly.

Contact Eric at Vulcan Performance he's got all kind of fuel fitting and some larger one if you want to upgrade maybe...

Feel the love...

Still a full day job to pull a heater core and put it back together. This is doing the right way!

I know this isn't exactly a right on the topic but... With all the steep grades and washboarded roads out here I learned a few thing about 4WD Dodge Cummins trucks.1. You can use 4WD going up a washboarded road just be aware to swing wide to keep the front axle from binding up.2. Do not use 4WD going downhill with a exhaust brake. What happens is all the engine weight over the front axle, bouncing up and down from the washboard and then the braking force of the exhaust brake will break u-joints even solid u-joints.So as for the mismatch tires I would be careful on any dry solid road even dirt. Now in mud and snow you'll be fine because the tires can slip a bit.

Or if you have to buy another stock OE lift pump for now and install in the block location.

Driver side you need the take the knee bolster out, drop the steering column (2 bolts). Then on the kick panel there is a single bolt to loosen up but don't remove. Passenger side there is the same single bolt that is loosen up but not removed.Cup holder is removed and there is 2 bolts and 2 nuts holding the center of the dash.Then the 5-6 screws across the top of the dash too.Swing and hang the dash on the passenger "Oh-Crap Bar" with a cam lock strap this allows for up/down adjustments easy.

Welcome to the family... You can see we got a few guys here that like to pick on the newbie but done with a flare and taste! :whistle:Hang around a bit and talk with them you find out they are great guys!

As long as you don't swap parts around between them the pop pressure shouldn't be affected by the cleaning.

Now your looking at doing a heater core for sure. But now you got to ask yourself if the hore core is failing how good is the rest of the cooling system like the radiator, oil cooler, etc. ?

Most likely graphite from metal to metal wear of pump parts. Remember the return from the AirDog is dump back in the tank as well as all the injection pump return... As well as any other debris from the your fuel source.

It does... Or it can come from a well too.

Best suggestion is to contact a local radiator shop and see what he has to say for proper clean up...

202K on the clock and my radiator still looks new on the inside. I've never had to run any kind of cleaners or solvents to clean my system out. I only have a light surface rust in the block and the inside of the radiator is got a green film but thats it.50/50 mixture of Supertech Anti-freeze and tap water...

Common rail folks typically are doing the same thing as well. I'm running 3 filter. 100 micron water seperator and pre filter, 3 micron fuel filter on the AirDog 150, then a 10 micron fleetguard fuel filter in the stock can. Absolutely no issue with fuel pressure. The fleetguard fuel filter is well over 50K miles and now just starting to turn dark colored.

I'm finding out that cheap DVM's don't test out the AC side very well. If you have Fluke DVM it should read less than 0.030 or so on AC scale but as for 30 VAC that would be considered a fail. You might consider having the alternator bench tested to be sure. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UveGtGuswBw

This is what I use to get soot and grease off...

Boost fooler and boost elbow will gain nothing because the fuel Map only goes to 20 PSI basically so even though you extend the boost pressure there is still stock fuel rates. So power level will be the same. Your going to need to add fuel one way or another to gain power.

HX35W turbo would be a bigger upgrade than the exhaust. Remember I'm still 3" without issues even hauling trailers. So I would point the finger more so at the turbo before the exhaust.

I've got a local gent here that is completely stock at 93K miles. Fuel pressure is 13-14 at idle and 9-10 at WOT. He's also got the P0216 code it still runs but occasional dead pedal issue or low power. No white smoke or hard starts.

Cam tone wheels changed during the loss of the crank sensor. Cam has to be changed if trying to retro fit from crank/cam to cam only.

Drums changed at 2001.5 and went to disc brakes.