Mopar1973Man

I'm going to say its a air leak in the quick connectors of the Raptor very very common issue. I just got done with a member here last night on the phone trying to figure a stall issue and most likely a air leak on the suction quick connector.

ISX did whole series on valve lash and performance by going to full loose extreme (0.015 0.030) to the full tight extreme (0.006 0.015) and he notice more performance on the tight side than loose. But for safety factor of valve expansion I only went a few thousandths tighter because of the long high temps I run hauling trailers. But even I notice a bit more improvement in the turbo sppools slightly faster, MPG's and exhaust brake operation.

I would double check the fuses with a ohm meter to be sure the fuse is not cracked. As for the ground most of that stuff is grounded in the driver side kick panel.

Glad you got it all fixed and running...

Dang Hex I figured your still up to no good in Sandpoint Idaho. Yeap I'm back to Salmon River Rural Fire Dept. I'm currently working to restore my fire station to the glore I kept it in the past. But is been a long hard road plus all the current fire that are burning. I've got a brush truck that got 6.5L Chevy Diesel and huge blow by issues. Someone ran it 5 quarts low on oil. Then my structure engine has a overheating issue with climb the canyon walls to get ot some of the homes. So when I get time I got to get the tools and the blessing of the Administration to get this all fixed ASAP. I can tell tales of all the mis-adventures I've had so far since I returned. But not on a public internet forum though...

Hopefully I can help... As for AirDog, Raptor and FASS use a method of spring and check ball basically to control output pressure. Raptor has been seeing issues with the adjustable system and has a upgrade you can get if needed. I'm going assume the new ones are already upgraded. I just used washers to shim my spring to adjust the pressure. I'm sorry I've don't have any information on this pump as of yet. My old school AirDog is really quiet and typically can't even hear it running. As for the newer AirDogs they can be rather loud at times. I'm still running my stock fuel filter without any problems. I've got 19 PSI at idle and 17 PSI at WOT. This is with the Fleetguard 10 micron filter installed in the can. There is no problem using a AirDog 150 on a stock truck. The bonus is the pressure is much more stable over a AirDog 100 where you might see 3-5 PSI fall versus my 2-3 PSI fall. I would opt for the 150 if you could. But the 100 will do just fine to about 450-500 HP. Also I would convert over to the old school JIC / PushLoc fitting like what I'm using to take care of air leak issues. There is a member here that I spent over an hour on the phone isolating out a air leak issue on a AirDog 165 that was most likely the quick connectors. Your a twin of me. I haul a 8x8 utility trailer and the truck loaded with firewood or hitch up the 31' foot travel trailer and go camping. My fuel system is still rock solid even in the extreme conditions of towing on steep grades. One of my local grades is 16% and that's not a typo. No. Your post is fine... Hopefully I covered you questions.

Here is my blowby on a warm summer day. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6HB3yIoWPLY As long as your not losing oil and having to add oil constantly you fine. My truck blows a good trail of vapor, drips on the floor now and then but never requires oil in between oil changes.

AH64ID has both a boost pressure gauge and a drive pressure gauge as well. So he's watching both sides of the turbo for performance. He's the man to talk to about turbos.

stock is 0.010 intake and 0.020 exhaust...I'm running 0.008 on intake and 0.018 exhaust...

They have different sized pins that they can slide in the holes and measure the holes for size.

To get that boost you need...* Boost fooler like a module or programmer* Boost elbow (HX35W Turbo) or J Hook (HY35W Turbo)Then the boost will rise above 20 PSI and go up. There is no problem with running 32 PSI for a HY35W turbo and 35 PSI for a HX35W turbo. No harm will come. But if you decide to upgrade and go up from there then you will be considering head studs and and other mods.

Ok remember this...ECM -> Smarty -> Edge Comp -> VP44 -> 140 HP InjectorsSo what ever you set the Smarty to then then the Edge Comp is increasing that signal again. In all reality I would say you way heavy fuel already and could stand to lose the Smarty for the daily driving and rely on the Edge for the most of it since the only thing Smarty is doing is kicking just fuel.

Good to hear your doing good... So did they report on the mass what it is?

Seem like you got it fixed...

Takes some boost and time to cool the manifold...

Wastegate should be fully open by about 20 PSI. So your P0234 is going to be a wastegate issue not a MAP sensor. Stock turbo without a boost fooler shouldn't make much more than 18-19 PSI typically after about 23 PSI the P0234 code is thrown.

There is several types of aircraft going up here but most helicopters and sky cranes. But there was some large aircraft doing retardant drops too. Basically why there is there no really good action or fire pics we as a Volunteer Fire Dept were stagged in water point that was close to all structures and homes so if the fire was to possibly come close during burn out operations then we could respond from a close distance of a few miles than 20-60 miles if we to respond from a fire station as normal. Since USFS was fairly sure of the structures where protected and secure they released us for the time. But never know if we might get paged again.

In Riggins, ID its $4.609 diesel and $3.979 for gasoline. Prices have jumped here since the last holiday.

http://www.nwcn.com/your-news/169361056.html http://www.ktvb.com/news/slideshows/Sheep-Fire-near-Riggins-Idaho-169325886.html http://www.nwcn.com/home/?fId=169217376&fPath=/news/local&fDomain=10222 http://www.spokesman.com/stories/2012/sep/09/more-fire-evacuations-idaho/ http://www.ktvb.com/news/Wildfire-destroys-one-building-near-Riggins-169230196.html http://www.inciweb.org/incident/article/3240/17115/ More news on it. But yes gang I'm here in one piece and doing good this morning after a good nights sleep. The cause of the fire is basically a electrical fire from a transformer the blew up and threw sparks in the grass. Then off to the races. There is 2 other fire here locally that are currently in progress so I'm on standby to respond at anytime right now. So in the mean time today I got to do some truck repairs for a water tender that got a damaged front brake line and some backfire issues. So I'm not out of the woods exactly yet...

I'm home... I'm safe... Here some pictures of what I dealt with...As for me I'm home for the time being and am on standby if USFS has issues with structures in the fire.

Thank you... I'm home for now but I've got to be back up at 4am and head back out to the firelines bright in the morning. I'll be back soon to my typical answer the phone as soon as the fire is contained. Right now the fire is 21,000 acres and 0% contained the last I heard. I'll be taking my camera tommorow to get some pics. I'll be safe and I'll be back!

Idling doesn't count really... Mine goes through the roof exhaust braking down long grades I can easily reach 160-170*F...What counts is the temperature under boost. Now that number has bearing on timing and fueling tables.

That's my thought because if the box is sloppy then the truck is hard to control. If the sector adjustment (or lash) is done properly to take up the slack in the box then the control is maintained. Like right now I've also got a slight offset with my aluminum mags and no issues with wandering even with a RV in tow. But steering linkage is a sum. So if everything has a bit of slack then there is a lot of slack from the steering wheel to the the axles themselves. Also have to remember that all modifications have a effect to the geometry of the front axles.

Here is some info on it... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HTTP_cookie

No. Even my Edge Comp doesn't change EGT's either off or on. EGT's are controlled by speed and gears. Like I just returned back from a 4 day camping trip with the RV trailer and absolutley no big deal controlling EGT's climbing 6-7% grades. When I seen the grade coming I drop back one gear from 5th to 4th and kick the RPM's to 2000-2100 roughly 55 MPH and most times it would hover about 1,000-1,100*F but a few cases it did tip the 1,200*F mark but not for long. I'd played with my Edge Comp and turned it off on one grade still same EGT's no change of EGT's at all from off to KILL MODE on 5x5.