Mopar1973Man

Here we go with the video... NAPA 190*F thermostat... Fresh thermostat with every coolant change. http://youtu.be/IvTDLZ80Fnw

Wow! I always was told the clutch required a special tool to remove even the FSM shows it...

Also has to do with the ribbon cable that goes down inside the pump for speed sensor and fuel sensor... Really hard to extend a ribbon cable and shield it from noise and mechanical damage. Like today Riggins, ID was easy 100*F outside. Temperatures don't seem to bother the VP44 or me really. Kind of looking at it this way. Engine has a cooling system where the water moves around and the cylinders and head and returns to the radiator for cooling. The VP44 is similar because as long as the fuel pressure is 14-20 PSI the fuel continues to move pass the electronics and pull the heat from it. But now reduce your fuel pressure below 14 PSI it like taking the belt off the water pump. Eventually the VP44 will overheat (electronics).

Special puller is required to change a clutch as far as I know. As for testing it there is much that I know of for test other than replacement.

(Video coming! Give me a bit to process!)

Take a lazer temp gun and shoot the ECT sensor and the thermostat housing (block).The Ultra Gauge and Dash gauge will be no better than the ECM / ECT Sensor accuracy.

Remember the ECM controls the lift pump circuit. Then also remember there is no fuel pressure sensor on these trucks so there is no way for the ECM to see pressure. Rare but it does happen when you turn the key on and have the pump run a full 25 second prime cycle. Today was you day...I'm normally a stickler about keeping hydrated and fed.

You might have to test and see if the A/C clutch is actually seeing 12 volt signal. If it is and the clutch is not snapping down tight and twisting with the pulley then the clutch might be bad or the clutch electro-magnet might of failed.

Yes... I can watch my coolant temperature and no it doesn't jump up and down typically hangs right at 190-193*FNice and stable...

I can tell you the under hood temperature its between with the outside air temp (105*) is and the coolant temperature (190-195*) As for the VP44 as long as you pressure is 14-20 PSI then the VP44 temp will be the temp of the fuel more fuel in the tank the longer the pump stays cool.We made it 92*F here at the house.

I don't remove the latch but throw a rug or a rag over that thing. Yeah I know exactly what your talking about after awhile of laying across the hood latch your belly start to hurtin' and your knees are wore out from kneeling on the bumper.

Been ~$160 bucks for ScanGauge II for as long as I've known... http://www.scangauge.com/buy/buy-direct/

It was the left over weather tape I used on my topper... :lol:Cheap and it wasn't enough for the topper so I used the bits and pieces on the A/C...

Nitrogen would be a good choice. But I don't have a bottle hanging around the shop... So I got to use the next best thing.

I understand this very well. I've done a lot of it here in Idaho with friends... Something to watch out for is as you continue to barter with friends over and over eventually will try to slide out from under his end of the bargain long after the the job was done for him. I got one that still owes me over 3 cords of firewood yet. Then another one I spent 2 day helping him rebuild a Kubota Diesel tractor and got nothing. I don't mind bartering but when you friends look at you like "Wow! I can get it done on credit with him." Get it in some sort of writing if this a repeat offender... I love to donating time fixing vehicles and equipment but when the donated time is never returned in a timely fashion then the friendship goes downhill anyways.

As for leak checking you can take compressed air and fill the system enough to run the compressor and pump the dye around. I just fire up the truck with the A/C on and using a air gun with a rubber tip I fill the system on the low pressure side till the compressor runs. Then I let it run for 5 minutes of so... This is to get the oil / dye mix and push through the system. Then I'll park the truck in a darkened shop and grab the black light and go hunting for green dye. Also check and see how long it holds that pressure you added.After I'm done hunting... I place the system on a vacuum for over 15 minutes to draw out any moisture that the compressed air might of had. I'll normally will do a vacuum test as well after pulling a vacuum I will check and see how long it holds vacuum.If all 3 test dye, pressure and vacuum are good... I pull one last vacuum on it and then charge it up...

As for knowing how much oil in the system... The only way I found to measure it is to remove the compressor and drain it and measure it. As for the condition of the oil you'll be capable of seeing if there is debris or if the oil has darkened from compressor wear.

Not smart at all... I think all the Idaho cold and rain finally froze a brain cell there Hex... (I'm not far behind... )

No. No harm will come to either the engine or the A/C. Just that you might get dog's breathe after awhile from mildew that might form in the A/C evaporator. Typically its a good idea to shut down near home and let just the vent blow to dry the evaporator out a bit. But even that will not cause any harm just funky smell. Could be... Or there could be other things going on that might of worked in your favor... Fuel differences, weather / climate is warmer, driving style change, etc.

Your still missing it... If the battery feed from the PDC box is live with AC waveform that means everything hook to that fuse box has AC wave form feeding it. So the alternator is creating the AC waveform and feeding that power to all these things on the PDC fuse box and more... So if you remove the fuse and the problem is gone then you kill the source of the noise. As you can see the power comes in on 48 and 50 of the ECM and 22 of C1 on the PCM. Oh the red/white going to the fuel pump relay that's the power feed to the VP44. As you can see the AC waveform from a bad alternator can be fed to every device in the truck. The other thing your missing is the fact these truck normal cover 9-11 years before this problem pops up. So what changed that now there is RF noise (AC waveform) in the electrical system that needs filtering off? There is only one device on the entire truck that creates AC waveform which is the alternator. There is the digital signal from the computers but its very small voltage scale (2.5 volts). But still I say deal with the source...

Like myself I took off today and ran down the road and helped a local neighbor with A/C problems on her car. She has a very limited income and can't afford to really go to a shop and have it repaired. So I took it upon myself take my tools and go down to her house and work on it and get it straighten out for her.

All of the seals. All quick joints should have two O-rings. Then there is 2 washer seals on the compressor.As for the compressor I did it with a box end wrench and no cheater pipe on my back laying in the grass. As for breaking loose I used a ratchet and extension through the holes in the frame to break them loose. But assembly I just normally tighten them up and moved on...

Well on my AirDog it might be 30-40K miles (every 3rd or 4th oil change) before the filter gets changed and the Prefilter and Water seperator get changed every 5 years. The stock OE filter gets changed every 100K miles. I checked the stock OE filter at 50K miles and it was still rather white looking!

http://www.kentsoil.com/dodgebug1.htm Neat article but like all the others they are working to shield a unknown noise. Why not find the source of the noise and remove it? But still the RF noise is in everything... You filtering the PCM for the TQ conv but how about everything else? (ECM, ABS, Central Timer, etc.)?

Like I said you could upgrade to later filter housing... I'm still running a fleetguard filter in my stock housing and no issues on pressure.