Mopar1973Man
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Everything posted by Mopar1973Man
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IAT sensor should be AFTER the grid heater so the ECM knows if the grid heater are coming on or not. (simple version)
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I hate to say it but no matter what brand name you pick there is going to be a weakness to it. Even every signle model of that brand has a weakness. It all about learning about the weakness early and protecting you vehicle from damage. Like 3rd Gens have weakness of injecotr failure like you found out and before that is the weakness of the fuel filters which causes the injector failures.
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Welcome to the family here... Sad to here you starting out with a burn piston and bore. :(Hopefully you gain enough knowledge here to prevent that from happening again...Come to Idaho in the winter time and you'll be glad Edge has defuel modes...Haggar got what I was looking for... (touche')Are you looking for aftermarket or the exact OE headlights?Cummins also sell them...Cummins Seal kit about $10- Part Number-4089742Thankful that valve adjustments only have to be done every 100K miles basically so everytime I change transmission fluid I do a valve adjustment.I wouldn't suggest it. The fact the grid heaters are controlled by the IAT sensor and being you going to place the IAT before the grid heater now makes the grid heater stay on longer than required. Not to mention the fuel / timing map is designed around that +40*F offset in the manifold so now moving to the intake horn with produce a colder IAT reading and reduce MPG's. The only reason that idea came forward was because of the exhaust brake and cam overlap would coat the sensor in oily residue and possibly offset the IAT readings.For what's in the video the engine has been running a least 60 seconds or so to spread the oil in the clutch then you'll hear the clutch unlock. Takes longer in time or more RPM as the oil get colder to unlock the clutch.Interesting...Just with the engine off and sitting cold it should be very stiff. After you rock it back and forth a bit it should let go a wee bit but it will still be fairly stiff.Yeap then your right on... Like my guest house has a tiny little stove but 80-90*F temp inside with outside temp near ZERO. It always awesome to do that...Hot or cold... The day I went up and rode with him it was rock cold and barely had enough power to climb the 10-12% grade out of his yard. (3-5 MPH with the pedal to the floor) Good point. They are 10 year old OEM factory batteries. Might be time on them I see about having them tested out. Another good point... I'll double check the VP44 connector and the ECM connections... Maybe even peek at the APPS since its throttle related. It factory lift pump and plumbing. As far as I know its factory OE lift pump too never been changed. He's got like 73K miles on the truck. VERY LOW miles. But now the fuel pressure gauge is installed the fuel pressure has always been above 10 PSI the owner tells me. Would be nice to do but stock OE pump isn't adjustable...But it might be time to consider a replacement maybe? 15-16 at idle but as for the WOT highway number I really can't tell you (15-20 MPH WOT 11-12)I'd just do the standard Edge Comp and skip the hot unlock... (Biased... )Geez... That stove looks tiny... But if I remember right you said you had a smaller house anyways. But you just wait that stove will cut you heating bill quite a bit if use right. I would highly suggest you get a stove pipe temp gauge or pyrometer for the stack and find out what temperature burns the cleanest. Smoke out the chimney is a bad sign (wasted fuel) just like the Cummins...I've been out every morning splitting firewood too... So I know I still got to get out and haul but the weather is just too dangerous to be firewood hauling right now. Like this evening it was still 105*F in Riggins, ID. I know its cooler on the mountain but still the fire danger is still high around here...Yes... Timbos APPS for $160... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/38-engine-timbos-apps-sensorOk Gang...I've got a project on a 2002 Dodge Cummins 2500 (no not mine). I've installed a fuel pressure gauge it holding 15-16 PSI at idle and about 11-12 PSI at WOT but at low speeds that I've seen. Here is the problem the codes have P0216 code present no others but its got a partial dead pedal. You can mat the pedal to the floor and it barely rolls along at 5-15 MPH then all of sudden like the ECM or the VP44 wakes up and hang on she powering up. There is no codes for APPS sensor so I'm not considering the APPS sensor. But now I know that 2 cases of ECM failure I seen where the throttle is limited (CajFlynn is one of them). Knowing both the ECM and VP44 are $1,000 dollar items I need to figure out a way of verifying this problem for the owner. Help us out gang!Put a set of manifold gauges on and check the hi and lo side pressures.Lo side should be about 35-40 PSI and hi side should be about 200-250 PSI.Well other than oval shaped the last coil of the spring and shim the spring up that's it... I'm NOT using a isolator and always have solid good numbers. Yes there is fuel plumbed into the cab of my truck but now in all these years never had a leak in the cab like everyone jumps up and down about. If you use the proper material and route the line properly you'll never have a issue.Oh that's just so wrong...Yes sir... She drive normal and lean plumb over the passenger seat to stuff boxes. Been doing it nearly 20 years now! The inside edge of the seat is rather broke down she said. I wonder why...I was curious if the banjo had a adjustment or just the small hole. Keep us posted on the results of that banjo I'm curious of how it works out.Curious about your banjo snubber... Could you post a picture of it. Please!
