Mopar1973Man

What is bugging me to no end is the fact there is all these wild write up of people adjusting APPS sensors, wiring mods, extra grounds, filters, etc. I still say the truck ran fine without any of these mods for 10-12 years and now it needs it... I doubt highly. I say there is a part that is failed and needs to addressed not band-aided over. The more and more I kept studying this and the more I ran into people with this issue and what they done never resolves the issue. But now this is the second phone call where I helped a owner with this issue and found that just unhooking the alternator fuse and the problem goes away tests me instantly the alternator is at fault...Another way to verify...

Tear in the boots causing the whine?

Vacuum pump is the little unit the bolts in between the gear case and the power steering pump. Yes the vacuum pump uses engine oil to lubricate the vacuum pump. Yes... Power steering fluid is pumped into the hydro booster.

Naw I won't kill your post but I'll move it and make a separate thread from it... :cool:But talking to Pepsi71Ocean abut his problem there is a tidbit of info about the torque converter being locked in park and if the system is draining down it might take too long to pump the fluid to the torque converter to unlock it. So if you place the trans in Neutral for a short period it should allow the pump to pump fluid in the system and prime it up.

Ok Gang...I've got a for sure way to diagnose torque converter lock up issues where it lock and unlocks at about 45-50 MPH. I had a gent call me yesterday with this problem and he's replace both batteries, alternator and the APPS sensor. Attempted all the different wiring issues (adding ground, tinfoil etc.) nothing worked. Like I told him the truck ran 11 years without all this stuff and doesn't require any wiring change to make it work. What it needs is the damaged part to be replaced. So he's returned the wiring back to stock setup.Now I told him to unhook the alternator fuse and take it for a ride... Guess what... No problems! Even though he replaced the alternator it has a damaged diode in it and it bleeding AC noise into the electrical system.So before doing any wiring mods, tinfoil, adding grounds, adding filter... PLEASE! Bench test your alternator! This is the second time I've suggested this and both time resolved the torque converter lock up issue.

Basically going to be short the HP... You'll only get roughly 40-60 HP without the wire...

Remember to check the other vendors out here...

This is a stealth plate. There is a small set screw with a needle point the is driven down into the VP44 to obtain the connection for the wire tap. Its weather tight and foolproof. No loose connection or mutilated wiring.

As for the overhead computer it no longer calibrated... Even my ScanGauge II is different from stock to RV275's...True Stock - 9.6% OffsetStock / Edge Comp - 18.2% OffsetRV275 / Edge Comp - 22.5% OffsetDouble check again...

Hell if you got the evaporator, freon (3 cans), and made it to Idaho... I would supply the tools, shop, and beer and get that fixed in 1 day...

Ok... As for the AD series pump a small air leak would most likely not show any pressure drop because of the heavy return flow anyways. Now as for the Pushloc / JIC those fitting are nearly foolproof and solid rarely give any problems for air leakage. But now the new system with quick connects I've already talk to a person about this and in formed me the quick connects are not designed for suction hence why AD systems are failing more so. True with the Raptor system it does replace the last piece of line to the VP44 which is very restrictive and will cause pressure loss. I typically inform people to get the Big Line kit from Eric over at VulcanPerformance and replace that last piece of line. Then on top of that I know the AirDog filter are much better filters over the stock drop in media. But after having my system I'm more prone to keeping the stock one as a fallback filter because after 50K miles the stock filter starts to darken with material that has maded past the AirDog filters. Maybe thats why my whole fuel system is trouble free double filters, good solid fuel pressure (2-3 PSI drop), and using a fuel lubricant. I'm heading for 200K miles on the VP44 and no signs of failure yet!

Whew! Sigh! I was starting to worry about where I was going to buy my BHAF's, fuel filters, and other misc. fuel system stuff... :ahhh:But being he's back on line I'm starting to relax again...

See what kind of family you got here? We are all crazy good ol' Boys that are helpful and caring... Oh... If you can get here I'll give you a free beer!

I got to admit that a crazy setup but I guess it works for the job... Did the new monitor come with bungee cords too?

Well Brother we both got to take it the shorts for the fuel prices don't we?!?! From my view point at my desk looking out the window it just turn nice and green on the valley walls. Here soon I'll get a shot at taking a ride on the ATV up Race Creek road towards the firewood hole and take a peek.As for towing I might end up towing twice in next week I might have to haul a load for Relentless70 and then do my haul down to Ontario, OR / Boise, ID...

Post a link up please... Or post up a response... Or both... Please!

You said what? I didn't hear ya...

Like even my own rig I've got a old school AirDog 150 pump on my truck but I never got a warranty card so I'm screwed any ways. But I've got about 6-7 years now with my AirDog 150 I'm also still running the stock filter as well because of the fuel heater and my minus temp weather I get in Idaho. But even on you setup Raptors will fail out and drop pressure just from a air leak. So if you got a weak connection or loose fitting the air leak could create a problem just like what happen. As for fuel pressure your see way too much change from idle to WOT... Typically normal is 2-3 PSI fall period beyond that you got line restrictions, plugged filters, air leaks, or failing pump. Like my truck I idle at 19 PSI and WOT stompped I can go clean up to 85 MPH, 35 PSI of Boost and still be looking at 17 PSI...

Grab a cheap one and move on... Rare for fan clutches to fail really.

Its a rubber coating paint so basically you'll never get rock chips in the paint. I consider it a fad for the most part like over on RamForum.com a lot of guys are plasti-dipping there rims and other small parts on there vehicle.

Wow! That's a shocker after all these years and now VulcanPerformance has dropped there web site... They will be sorely missed by many people. In the mean time I'll going to ask around and see what I find...

:doh:Geez... I never gotten straight answer to the ECM problem... I've been following everyone around listening to tales but never gotten straight answer to who can rebuild or replace? I'm sure Dripley will be along today and see this he's got a paperweight ECM on his desk that can't be rebuilt but ended up buy a new one from the dealer. :banghead: I don't know what to say...

Yes... I shimmed up the spring to give more pressure to the system. I know that both AirDog and FASS sell spring with increase pressures. But the shim idea was quick and fast for getting the pressure up. Make sure the ID of the washer will not interfere with flow and the OD will allow it hold the spring without being oversized.

As for R&R services I've been told several times that the parts are not available for these ECM's to be rebuilt. So usually they will send it back to you still broken. But I always ask the question why is it that Mopar/Cummins still capable of selling new ones? The parts are there but someone isn't telling a full story...

Neat calculator... But for what every reason the final temp numbers don't even come close for high boost number (30-35 PSI) for my truck it report like 170-180*F final temp. Not! I've rarely even seen 150*F (Maybe while using my exhaust brake)...:rolleyes:Mine follows the +40*F offset to outside temp rather closely and change very little while even at high boost. But I'll check again...