
Everything posted by Mopar1973Man
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Mopar1973Man's Crankcase Vent Modification
Actually your backwards. The heater hose will break down and get soft and kink shut then the crankcase pressure will build up and blow out gaskets and crank seals. This why the PVC pipe idea came into design. Actually PVC will last a very long time as long as it out of direct sunlight. The UV rays is what breaks down the plastics.
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Class V Hitch Recommendations
Wow... I did know stock hitches got that cheap looking... :stuned:But I got to admit the updated hitch looks plenty strong!
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Vp whipping a dead horse.
Ok... Here is the low down... The fuel system on these truck is terribly weak and need upgrading just for stock use. The VP44 injection pump will typically last about 100-150K miles on average with some pushing over 300K miles. The lift pump is the killer that ruins the VP44 injection pump. As for FASS, AirDog and Raptor they are all lifetime warranty pumps and typically live very long lives without much attention. I think mine is about 5-6 years old and over 100K miles on the AirDog 150 now. My VP44 currently has 146K miles and still going. As for the injection pump I know the weakness is the fuel lubricity so I've been adding 2 cycle oil to the fuel at 128:1 ratio to help increase the lubricity (reduce the HFRR score). So if you can hold fuel pressure above 14 PSI all the time you'll extend the life of any VP44 injection pump as long as the fuel lubricity score is below 450 HFRR... Fuel Pressure http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/49-fuel-pressure-specification-for-bosch-vp44-injection-pumps 2 cycle Oil usage http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/63-adding-2-cycle-oil-to-diesel-fuel HFRR Score testing http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/68-hfrr-testing-of-common-diesel-fuel-additives
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My Poor Cummins
First thing I see no one was hurt.... The truck did its job and protecting you from harm! :thumb1:As for the truck it can be replaced or repaired... That's the insurance companies job to handle...
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Vp whipping a dead horse.
Interesting mine disappeared with the change of the first pump...
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Vp whipping a dead horse.
That's a factory OEM injection pump and its never been replaced! Most likely not since the pump is must likely a factory original pump. Being that usually after the factory pump is replace you'll never see another VOID sticker again. Most likely not but the factory fuel system is not enough to feed a stock truck properly anyways... Wouldn't hurt to do it but it will not fix the current problems. Only with a code reader and using the ERASE feature. Disconnecting the batteries does nothing for error codes. The ECM/PCM can self erase coes after 40 warm up cycles if the code doesn't return in the 40 warm up cycles.
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HX35 Max Boost?
The only mod on the turbo is the boost elbow that came with the Edge Comp that all. Completely stock turbo! I can hit the 35 PSI pin while towing my Jayco travel trailer easy. As for RPM's normal 1,500 to 2,500 span... Nothing crazy... AirDog 150 Fuel System Stock VP44 Injection Pump Stock HX35 Turbo With Edge Comp Boost Elbow Edge Comp (5x5 & Wire Tapped) RV275 Injectors 3" Straight Piped Exhaust BHAF That it in a nut shell... As for old Dyno run back in 2007 I made 381/831 without the RV275 Injectors. I'm guessing I right close to 400 HP... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/members-rides/17-mopar1973man/145-2002-dodge-ram-dyno-results The group I ran with... http://idahoturbodiesels.com/articles/?p=9
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Vp whipping a dead horse.
Stock VP44 is fine... No need for any hot rod pumps. The reason why the failure is lack of fuel pressure and you have no way of monitoring the fuel pressure as your driving. Any thing under 14 PSI is marginal. 10 PSI is the bare minimal limit. Below 10 PSI your doing damage just like running the engine on low oil pressure. You got to remember the only thing that cools and lubes the VP44 injection pump is the fuel pressure that is return to the fuel tank. So if the over flow valve is open by 14 PSI it makes sense to keep the pressure above that.So now that point out you need a updated fuel system like AirDog, FASS or Raptor.More or less take care of the weak spots first before adding any toys to the truck...
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Gauge Cluster "no-bus"
At least now you have information if the problem returns...
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Vp whipping a dead horse.
The guys are right the lift pump and the VP44 both took on damage. So you end up replacing both plus it seem you need to install a fuel pressure gauge as well...Welcome to the family sorry to start off on the wrong foot...
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HX35 Max Boost?
Watch the top gauge... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=grl72Up-8T0
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Hydraulic fluid
Like most all lubricant today they are full of additive packages for enhancement like soft metals (ash) so the high ash content will leave a nice build up of white harden deposits on the injectors and pistons. Just like the old tymers telling stories of using ATF back in the 70's for injector cleaner. Sure back then the oils were very basic now today very different and much more added to them. I highly suggest you don't add it to the fuel because of the negative effects.
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Electrical Problem
Might be a loose wire connection that got hot while cranking the starter. Was it in the cab or in the under the hood?
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Starting.
Or its a bit of a air leak in the fuel system.Or weak fuel pressure from overflow valve issue.
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Flashing BRAKE light
Get a second person and watch the cables on the axle and be sure they are working properly. I come to find out last fall my passenger side cable had rusted solid and created the same issue you have no amount of adjustment could fix it.
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Flashing BRAKE light
Is the E Brake pedal returning full into the up position?
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i was going to do ball joints.....but i changed my mind
D'Oh! Well it all depends on how deep your pockets are...
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electrical issues again.. ugh
Fuse cracked did it?
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i was going to do ball joints.....but i changed my mind
Why did you change your mind?
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Well, I have a new one! Engine stays on when IGN is turned off, no boost and bucking.
Edge Juice has a turbo timer function that might be screwed up and holding the ignition on. Try tapping your brakes and see if it dies or double check your Edge setting. Even better yet pull the Edge loose and test again.
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Turbo Noise
Check your manifold bolts I've had one come loose and pop out hit the hood and fall back into the injection lines. That little hole is enough of a leak to drop you from typical max pressure down to 8-10 PSI and very smokey.
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Raptor FRRP and 1/2" line
Maybe that's why the AirDog and FASS pumps with twin filter have a prefilter / water separator before the pump. Just something else to consider when building a fuel system or your truck. More filters the better the protection.
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ATF in fuel?
Remember todays ATF in nothing like 1970's ATF which was just red dye hydraulic fluid. Now its got friction modifiers, anti-scorching compounds, high ash content etc... Not exactly a good thing for the engine or the fuel system.
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To The Man That Called Me The Other Day
That was most likely CajFlynn... He called here asking for Texas state members.
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RV refridgeration issues
So it was a flame sense problem...It's odd they don't use a better material like stainless steel or something that doesn't oxide over time...:whistle:Yellow jackets, bald face hornets, etc... I really don't have much likely for them even though I'm not allergic to then but hate being stung by them too. OUCH! I normally go on the hunt looking for the starting of nest and get them dealt with pronto.