Mopar1973Man

Stealth plate is fine if 12V is seen. You might grab a live data tool and see if the MAP sensor reporting a valid pressures. If the MAP sensor is overboosting (boost fooler is bad) it will do the same thing as a weak connection.

Basically the same... Go here to check. http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html Only 1 rev/mile different and 0.1% offset of speed. Just remember for every 4 pounds of tires you add to the truck you going to need 1 more HP to keep it rolling. That why I high suggest going smaller if you can. Because the lighter the tire the less HP you need to keep rolling. Like just for fun I stop at a tire shop and had the guy weight Hoosier Drag slick tire it only like 20-22 Pounds! Less weight the more HP/TQ you get to the ground!

Fairly simple pump design. Now the other half of the issue I would upgrade the fuel filter setup to be before the pump with both a water separator / prefilter and a 2-3 micron fuel filter. This way both pumps are protected from any debris. Hmmm... :think:That might be the way to go in the future when my AirDog dies. I get one and make my own dual filter base setup for the pump. Just kind of sad to see something so simple cost so damn much!

235/85 R16 and 265/75 R16 are the same diameter of tire just the width and weight is different.Left (265/75 R16 85 pounds per tire) Right (235/85 R16 62 pounds per tire)

3.54 is a good ratio but if your towing daily like CajFlynn the 3.73 is also a good mix...

I know the Edge Comp has a software bug. You might want to try setting all main levels to having a sublevel of 5 and try again. 1x5, 2x5, 3x5, 4x5, 5x5 Then set it to 5x5... What I've found is let say you set.4x1 and 5x5 and running 5x5 the 4x1 will pull down the 5x5 and make it run weak and doggy. But now switch to 4x1 increase it to 4x5 and then flip back to 5x5 it will roll with authority!!!

Well you need a boost fooler to over come the ECM over boost code. You'll never get any gain of boost with a module that hooks to the MAP sensor to fool the ECM from seeing true boost.As for the adjustable elbow it will change boost after you have a boost fooler installed. But a small 1/16 of a turn could change 5 PSI. I normally screw it in and go for a test drive and check the MAX boost and keep bringing down the boost pressure till its below 35 PSI (Stock HX35 turbos). Or you can figure you approximate HP amount and give 1 PSI of boost for 10 HP your creating. (Roughly speaking).

I found me a killer set of towing mirrors at a local RV dealer in Nampa, ID. (Nelson's RV). They where $32 bucks a piece not bad and they don't vibrate! I bought one for each side and they work awesome!

That would about cover it. Unless you want to to go the full meal deal and unplug all computers but that might be way too time consuming.

So I'm slow to cross that milestone... Geez...

Here you go...

Geez... AH64ID every time I look at your RV it looks so much like my own...Last years trip to Kirkham Hotsprings (2011)

About normal... With my mods I see slightly lower temperatures. 700-900*F on flat ground and pulling 7% grade I'm about the same with 1000-1200*F. Once I hit 1,200* I will gear down and hold my RPM's at 2K in the next lower gear and re-check the EGT's

I use Mobil One 15w-40 all the way down to -25*F with no ill effects.High idle in 3 cylinder mode I can have 100*F of coolant temp in 3 minutes.No problem.

For my truck its 2-4 MPG difference... I just rolled in the yard from 300+ miles trip at 23.7 MPG (If I remember correctly it's late I'm tired...)

Update just got back from Ontario, OR and Nampa, ID doing some shopping... 199,277 Miles... :thumbup2:200K milestone is a coming!

IAT sensor tells the ECM/VP44 what the air density is like and temperature so the calculated timing can be adjusted accordingly...Oh Russ... Since the weather is so hot I back to the IAT for the time... I still reaching 23-24 MPG and IAT is 130-140*F typically running around here with 100-110*F temperatures outside.

Well I'm not fond of doing that but it will work in a pinch... I suggest cleaning the pulley well and replacing the belt. Most times you find the belt is glazed and would pull the torque any longer.

:banghead: That's what the Cummins is for...

I normally grab a NAPA belt toss it on. Visual inspections till the crack start showing up. Then replacement.

Raptors are a bit more prone to problems because of lack of pre-filter ahead of the pump so if there was some debris in might of bound up the pump and blew the fuse typically.

It sux doing A/C jobs in Riggins, ID and its 101*F in the shade and then hanging over a 200*F engine sweating your off.

Congrads... Two or three more to go and your up with me... But I'm not knocking the 20-21 MPG your getting now that excellent for a Cummins CR engine...

Up there with all the Quackers...

The best suggestion I go is if you got a aftermarket stereo you might have the adapter plug in place too if so the pigtail of the panel lighting will be available. Then you could hook in there and run you a-pillar gauge from that lead with no issues.