Mopar1973Man

No kidding...

I do...16,000-17,000 GCW I can easily hit 35 PSI on hold it on a 7% grade but typically don't. If I had a 0-60 PSI gauge and a good adjustable boost elbow I bump the boost limit to 40 PSI. But I don't have either. :whistle:You'll find the people that blow headgaskets at a low pressure have not been keeping up with coolant changes and the gasket get weak and blows.

Naw... 800 Miles / 50 MPH = 16 Hours 800 Miles / 60 MPH = 13.3 Hours 800 Miles / 70 MPH = 11 Hours So there is a few extra hours...

No not a big difference till your built for full track use. Even then its a mild increase...

Drink it...

How to drive with Edge Comp on 5x5... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=0O0DPqqbryA Then calibrated MPG on a ScanGauge II... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRQdoPs_tLo

I hate to say but 90% of everything is made in China... So does it matter what brand of part you buy??? There is very little as far a companies that produce, assemble and sell within the US any more. Sometime the parts are made in China and assembled here and other times it all done over there... I can't count the time I find a name brand product made in China or some foreign land. Once again why I don't bother with name brands any longer... Sad but true...As for the Coors / Keystone well there is a small town of Whitebird, ID here in the state that happens to hold the biggest account for Keystone beer.

Answers in bold.

Speed limit here locally is 65 MPH but Idaho doesn't have a minimum speed limit so I set my cruise for 55 MPH and yield to traffic behind me. What do I have to hurry for? Like I tell anyone if you want me to drive fast pay for my fuel I'll drive as fast as you want me too. But since I'm paying for the fuel I'll drive as slow as I want too. Yes I've actually dropped cruise as low as 50 MPH in 65 MPH because there is no one around. I'll kick back, turn up the tunes and enjoy the ride... Once again what am I in a hurry for?

Hey now Vista x64 was a good OS... I'm still using it... (On the other side of this dual boot computer).But if you want a real OS... There is always Linux... :whistle:As for the mouse issues you might have to get to the mouse control panel and then not using the mouse but the keyboard and getting the setting changed. Tab key should jump you around from option to option and the arrow keys to change the option and enter should apply.

When cold you should be capable of stopping the blade with a old radiator hose... When hot you should hear it lock up and sound like a turbo prop taking off... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=QeKndmCy_yk

Remember crossing over 2K on the tach your losing MPG's really quick...

Kind of got the the same thing its like a bit of slop in the gears or drivetrain. I normally it doesn't bother me...

Several other factor like tire size, rotational weight, etc... I've seen with my own eyes After I dyno'ed that day my buddy dyno'ed his 97 1 ton and was just under me by about 5 HP. I teased and egg'ed him on. It got him so bad that he got off the rollers and pull the outer duals off and got back on beat me by about 15 more HP. This proves rotational weight of the axle plays a role in HP totals.Then I watch several huge jacked up Ford trucks with 37" tire barely roll 200-250 HP because of the losses in the tires...Remember I'm a big fan of 235's...

RockAuto has the door hinge pin kits for super cheap like 5 bucks. As for the cam assembly...

I can give you this much... * AirDog 150 * BHAF * Straight pipe 3" exhaust * Edge Comp (wire tapped) 381/831 - Dyno'ed Meridian Motorsports 2007 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/members-rides/17-mopar1973man/145-2002-dodge-ram-dyno-results So I'm right at 400 HP to the ground with Rv275's now... So now also consider all the weak link. * Transmission (manual or auto) will require updated input shaft, torque converter (auto) or better clutch. * Head gasket is good for 40-50 PSI but that's about it. So your talking about 65 PSI boost at least. Rule of thumb is 1 PSI makes 10 HP. * Valve springs will need to be updated to 90 pound. You'll find the farther you cross the 400-450 HP mark the less reliable the truck will be come and more prone to failure.

Like going over to RockAuto their cheapest fan clutch is $98 buck made by Hayden (5 yr / 50k mile warranty).Hayden is a good brand but still cheap...Then the expensive 4 seasons at $125 bucks... (1 yr / 12K miles) :rolleyes:Each their own... But I would buy the cheap one!

I'm glad to hear your still part of the family.

Well as for noises I had a intake bolt pop out and make whistle / blowing noise...

Jag don't sweat it... Do you relize it took me till now to figure this out and come up with a solution for this small problem. Lots of head scratchin' went into it.

Well if the minimum is 11.5 PSI so being +5 over 11.5 isn't going to hurt at all consider it reserve pressure. I'm going to assume that CP3 relies on a certain amount of return fuel for cooling and lubing purpose since I know they do have a overflow valve. So if you could look up the open and close pressure of the CP3 overflow valve would help figure out what is actual needed...

If you converted all your plumbing over to old school JIC and PushLoc's you'll be 100% air tight and solid on the plumbing where as the quick connects loose there sealing ability because they rely on O rings. But over time the O-rings will deform and leak. Where the old school JIC fittings are a compression fitting that has nothing to fail.

Not valid... Reason being is the truck ran for 10-12 years with out a single issue then now it pops up a TQ Conv lock/unlock issues. Ok still the alternator field is wired up but the output line is open so if the field wiring is the cause then pulling the fuse should of continued the problem but its doesn't. So the only thing on the output line of the alternator is... Stator -> Diodes ------ Wire ----> Fuse-> Battery Also being that the alternator starts out with 3 phase AC power got a wonderful source of AC noice if 1 doide is shorted.

:think:Personally I don't think its too high really. Little extra pressure keeping return flow is a good thing but carried away with pressure and adding like 20-25 PSI way over kill. (VP44 think again).Now once again I'm short on inofrmation about the 6.7L CP3 ands it overflow valve and such...