Mopar1973Man

Correct... Typically I only see 1,500 to 1,600 RPMs normal driving. I need a good slow strong burning fuel the deleivers torque. I rarely see above 2K on the tach.

I do almost the exact thing... I pull a heater hose and fill tilll the heater hose trickles a bit of coolant then hook up the hose and fill the rest of the way.

Why? None of the other trucks needed the fan? (1989-2002)

Boy if I still had a copy of the ASTM labs book on the Cetane rating of diesel it would show you a different story too... Like the one phrase that came from ASTM labs... Right out the ASTM labs books...

Oh well... :shrug:But my setup is working for me... I've got a VP44 with over 146K miles and no problems. Then my MPG's are roughly 20-21 MPG still waiting for warmer weather.So it didn't work in there study big deal... I gave up a long time trying to counter prove why 2 cycle oil works.

Hmmm... I'm a man of many hats... Computer Tech. - Cloud 10 Computers (23 years experience) Custom build computers and servers. Web Site Manager (5 years experience)www.idahoturbodiesels.com www.thedieseltrucksite.com www.tractorfarmandfamily.com www.blevinsrealestate.com www.salmonriverrealty.com Firewood hauler (23 Years experience) Fire Station Captain (6 Years Experience - Quit) Search & Rescue Idaho County (2 Years Experience) Mechanic Gas or Diesel (23 Years Experience)

Luk is the stock clutch in the truck from the factory... So if you got any kind of power mods I would expect it to hold much more. Typically stock clutch is good to about 300-350 HP to the ground then they slip.Most have upgraded to Valair or Southben Con OFE...Like my stock LuK clutch I broke the hub out of it...

Actually there is no seal problem but it might start pushing oil up and out the pipe if left on a slope long enough idling. More or less a gurgling type action the oil would be pushed up from the air pressure till air could pass again. So if you actually got the angle steep enough you still can push oil out but the thing is typically you don't stop on a steep slope like that eaving it idle for long periods. Not safe for the engine at any rate being the oil pickup is at the rear of the engine. More or less get to the slope to flater ground then stop just safer for you and the truck both.

http://www.chemcas.com/msds112/cas/1772/8008-20-6_64742-94-5_91-20-3_25551-13-7_1330-20-7.asp

Simple test... If you leave a sample of fuel additive expose to the air and it changes amount (evaporates) then its not a true lubricant. Leave 2 cycle oil or engine oil expose to the air that amount will never change. I know if you leave power service exposed it turns to a tar like substance very sticky... Not a lubricant...

Close but no cigar... That's oil treatment...

I don't think they could flow enough to satisfy a Cummins requires for a TP main oil filter... Bypass filter is fine with TP but a main filter I would scared to death...

Same occured for me to with the stock breather drain nearly a full gallon of oil over the fan and radiator before I got to level ground. Then had to catch a ride with my friend back off the hill 40 miles to get a full gallon of oil. Since then I travelled nearly 200K on the clock and not had a oil spill since the mod.I've actual considered trying to retro-fit a 12V tappet cover on and see about get rid of the whole vent pipe all together... But never got any answer if the 12V tappet cover would fit right.

Double check the wiring in the OBDII port...

MSDS sheet are general open for the public and most all products with hazardous chemical will have a MSDS sheet for it. Google is a good friend to learn how to use.

It only a startup white smoke its gone shortly after starting the engine cold. Kind of like a grid heater or maybe wore injector. I did pull the out they had signs of been wore. I thought the first time it did it was from possible air rin the line figure it would clear shortly after and didn't. Being I did pul lthe injectors that where i'm planing on double checking.

I've got a stock 1993 Dodge Ram 3/4 Truck 4WD that is expreiencing low MPG's. The power is OK for a automatic trans truck but the MPG's are like 15-16 MPG. The VE pump is un-toucked and un-changed still is stock configuration. Valves have been adjusted and they are good. Injectors where pulleed and cleaned up the best I can but still low MPG's. Also now having issues with white smoke at start up. Roughly 350K on the clock.Need some ideas gang...

Ummm... As far as I know as the pressure increases to a point around 450 PSI on the high side the compressor will be shut down. As far as I know there is no connection between the A/C and the fan on a 03. Like my 02 the there is a high pressure switch and a low pressure switch. As long as the pressure are between those 2 limits the compressor runs but as soon as it leave those to limits the compressor is shut down to protect the system.

Oh you mean the one with kerosene, moth balls, and xylene paint thinner? http://www.chemcas.com/msds112/cas/1772/8008-20-6_64742-94-5_91-20-3_25551-13-7_1330-20-7.asp Not good for your fuel system at all... I've got all these chemicals in my garage but I sure not going to dump it in the fuel... Kerosene is already dry fuel with low lubricity and high cetane number and low BTU content... The top it with a mix of Xylene paint thinner which is a very flashy fuel extremely low BTU content... Then to make it more fun benzene is a cancer causing chenical. You can look all this up over here... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xylene http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naphthalene http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Benzene http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kerosene What is wrong here is there is nothing here to lubricate the fuel system you are striping all the lubricate from the fuel system and causing much more harm than good. Even Bosch says the HFRR score of fue should be below 450 HFRR and today fuel is ~520 HFRR so adding a injector cleaner is not good... :banghead:

Dave is right... Look for the wet spots or fuel leaks... Sometimes the fuel system will get air leaks which don't leak fuel on the ground but suck air into the lines as the truck is running and continue to suck air in to drain the line back.Just for sake of cover all the bases what's your fuel pressure (Idle and WOT)? Do you have any error codes?Did you change your fuel filter lately?

Hit the nail on the head though... Just make it simple...Here is the cetane page to explain it... This explain both cetane and BTU's http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/67-diesel-fuel-cetane-rating-and-the-effects Then here is the page explaining fuel additives... The explains the impact of injector cleaners and other fuel additives on the fuel system... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/68-hfrr-testing-of-common-diesel-fuel-additives

Just remember to un-hook the grid heaters and use only a small small burst and I do mean small!

Understandable... But as for the gauge angle I tend to suggest them to owners as a protection your investment item. Like all the hotshots whe got here on the site they will tell you that anytime something fails it will typically show up in the form of heat. As for voiding warranty if you discuss the option of pyro / boost with your dealer they might just write it there logs of a authorized modification like I did years ago with my custom crankcase vent. (Documented in Ontario, OR. Dodge Dealer). But I was only trying to be helpful..

Something to take notice of... Like on my truck I'm running a Edge Comp with the VP44 tapped and left it set on 5x5 (kill mode). I get awesome MPG in the 21-22 MPG range and high mark of 25.3 MPG for the record. Now as for cold air intakes as we are learning that there is a limit of how cold is good. I'm finding 60-100*F outside temps are goodd for MPG's be below this the IAT temp fall to low to give good MPG's. Bigger turbo isn't really required at all since your not going to be driving with your foot mashed like my turck the stock Hx35 is plenty...

Engine Coolant temp means nothing... You can still exceed safe EGT's limits without seeing high coolant. Like my truck I can see 1,400*F in EGT's and coolant never rises over 197-200*F... Once again hopefully you get gauges soon because the ECM has no idea wha the EGT's are like and doesn't base any gear placement on EGT's either. That's a human factor... Like my rig I watch the EGT's and when the temp start getting close to 1,200*F I slow down a bit grab a gear down and hold the tach at 2K and watch again. If the EGT's keep rising back to 1,200*F then slow down again and grab another gear down. I've been know to climb grades at 20-23 MPH with EGT's hovering at 1,100*F and still seeing coolant temps of 197-200*F... So very rare do I see 210*F but that dead of summmer running A/C and dogging the truck up grade in too high of a gear...