Mopar1973Man

Like myself I took off today and ran down the road and helped a local neighbor with A/C problems on her car. She has a very limited income and can't afford to really go to a shop and have it repaired. So I took it upon myself take my tools and go down to her house and work on it and get it straighten out for her.

All of the seals. All quick joints should have two O-rings. Then there is 2 washer seals on the compressor.As for the compressor I did it with a box end wrench and no cheater pipe on my back laying in the grass. As for breaking loose I used a ratchet and extension through the holes in the frame to break them loose. But assembly I just normally tighten them up and moved on...

Well on my AirDog it might be 30-40K miles (every 3rd or 4th oil change) before the filter gets changed and the Prefilter and Water seperator get changed every 5 years. The stock OE filter gets changed every 100K miles. I checked the stock OE filter at 50K miles and it was still rather white looking!

http://www.kentsoil.com/dodgebug1.htm Neat article but like all the others they are working to shield a unknown noise. Why not find the source of the noise and remove it? But still the RF noise is in everything... You filtering the PCM for the TQ conv but how about everything else? (ECM, ABS, Central Timer, etc.)?

Like I said you could upgrade to later filter housing... I'm still running a fleetguard filter in my stock housing and no issues on pressure.

Over on Tractor Farm and Family there is a video on how to skin animals using compressed air. Neat way to skin out animals but bad thing for yourself...

Fuel heater is the only reason I kept mine... Being Hex is up north of me I see why he kept his too. Might consider upgrading to a later model filter housing.

Not really... Because you want to keep fuel pressure at 14 PSI for the VP44. Thats why the last check valve just like the P7100 pump and VE pump are the same way... Actually the carter has a internal regulator too that routes extra fuel from the output back to the input flowing across the motor as lube and cooling. But all pumps have a regulator of some sort. AirDog and FASS with a 3rd line back to the tank, Raptor, FASS95 and Carter with internal return to input, etc. Because the small hole purpose is to bleed air but hold fuel pressure. That's why its so tiny of a hole. Not typically no. The problem is that most people don't plan the fuel supply system properly with the demand that they are putting on it. Hence the problem with up and down pressure. Actually the regulator problem is trying to build a cheap regulator that works for a long period of time. The carter lift pump regulators fail because the chrome plated BB (check ball) is beating against pop metal body (cast aluminium). S in a short time the BB tears up the seat and pressure drops. On AirDogs the check ball is plastic with rubber coating and it will squeeze back into the coil of the spring which is correctable by egg shaping the last coil. There is a bunch of VP44 pictures over on DTR.com internals, externals, exploded views, etc. The best I can give is a single strand of 14 AWG wire will not fit the hole. May take a thou or two off and it would. Cool... I'd love to sit down and talk shop with chalk and beer...

Just loosen and drop straight down. Leaving the bolts in the compressor. Make sure to clean around the hose fitting before removal to keep dirt from getting into the compressor. After that you can cover the holes with plugs or duct tape, etc...

Comes out in about 10-15 minutes easy as pie... 4 bolts mounting it to the block, 1 bolt holding the freon lines on. 1 electrical connector.Drain plug is on top...

Won't work because once the engine stops twisting the flow stops in the injection pump as proven here is this video... BC was going to build a lift pump timer to keep it running but I figure it out that it won't work because there is next to zero flow... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=YREpPrMxkHU

What's bad is after fighting with freon leaks for so long I found my compressor had less the 1 oz of oil in it. Compressor hold 7.1 Ozs (210 cc) so knowing the compressor is low the rest of the system would have less too. So I added the 8 oz bottle and never looked back.

Ahhh... :smart:MoparMom wanted her own little slice of the site with down to earth type topics. Home issues, family issues etc. Maybe a place where the wifes of the owners could get together. Etc. General Conv. is just your every day bar crowd and hang out...I'll get MoparMom on to respond...

Torquing the valve will do nothing. Being the bolts are shoulder with stops so it will not squeeze down on the gasket any more. Gasket replacement is required...Yeah I know they are spendy...Skip over to RockAuto.com they have it for $72 bucks...

Old school filter can with the test port on top only flow 35 GPH max so they are restrictive themselves. That's why the newer design came out top loading and better flow rates at 75 GPH.

From the manufacture... http://www.sanden.com/index.php?tag=MTExOTk3OTEwNw6

165 GPH pumps should hold a 2-3 PSI drop150 GPH pumps should hold a 2-3 PSI drop.100 GPH pumps should hold a 3-5 PSI drop.These are average drop amounts for stock to mild tuned engines. More fuel demand the more the drop.

Well... Errr... Ummm... Local NAPA sold them to me at $130 for the Evaporator and $125 for the heater core... :banghead:

Heater core and evaporator core both are spendy pieces. Resistor is a good thing to while out. Check the blown motor bearing and the blower cage too. If the motor is wobbly or squeaky time to replace.

All 12V engine have the injection lines directly to the injector. The return rail is also external of the engine too.

Actually accumulator and the orfice tube (high pressure pipe) should be replaced. The accumulator has the drier in it and the orfice tube has filter in it. As for the seal kit it cost me about $10 bucks for the seal kit from NAPA.As for the compressor I would pull it out and drain the oil from it and then pick up a 8oz bottle of PAG oil and reload it. This way you know for sure the compressor is properly loaded with oil.

Your going to pass me in the Northern part of the state... You'll go past hex0rz in the northern part of the state too. You too could get together and say hi for sure...

Here is a full video of it... About 8:35 start watching http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ghDbhJDBvkc

I've actually considered got to a 215/85 R16 next... (Also a stock tire size for 1 tons)

Keep going I know you can get up to 21 next...