Mopar1973Man

The Bus is simply just two wires... Take notice of the 2 twisted wires that is the CCD Network bus. [*] Bus Shorted to Battery - Did either wire short to +12 volts? [*] Bus Shorted to 5 Volts - Did either wire short to a sensor wire +5 volts? [*] Bus Shorted to Ground - Did either wire short to ground? [*] Bus (+) Shorted to Bus (–) - Are the 2 wires shorted together? [*] Bus (–) and Bus (+) Open - Are the 2 wire broken loose somewhere? [*] Bus (+) Open - Is the Bus + lead broken loose? [*] Bus (–) Open - Is the Bus - lead broken loose? [*] No Bus Bias - Is the proper voltage present on the Bus wires? (2.51 Volts and 2.49 Volts) [*] Bus Bias Level Too High - Is the voltage too high? [*] Bus Bias Level Too Low - Is the voltage too low? [*] No Bus Termination [*] Not Receiving Bus Messages Correctly What CCD Network does is just like the ethernet cable on your computer for internet. One wire has all the positive pulses and the other wire has all the negative pulses. When the computer see the 2 matching pulse going positive and negative it good information. But when the mirror pulse disappears, or got a spike, etc then the data is bad or corrupt. So after so many tries the computer(s) give up and throw the NO BUS message.

Here is the reasons for No Bus... [h=2]Bus Failure[/h] The CCD data bus can be monitored using the DRBIII scan tool. However, it is possible for the data bus to pass all tests since the voltage parameters will be in “range“ and false signals are being sent. There are essentially 12 “hard failures“ that can occur with the CCD data bus: [*] Bus Shorted to Battery [*] Bus Shorted to 5 Volts [*] Bus Shorted to Ground [*] Bus (+) Shorted to Bus (–) [*] Bus (–) and Bus (+) Open [*] Bus (+) Open [*] Bus (–) Open [*] No Bus Bias [*] Bus Bias Level Too High [*] Bus Bias Level Too Low [*] No Bus Termination [*] Not Receiving Bus Messages Correctly

Would hurt to check it...

So I can safely assume its a 5.9L Cummins 6 Cylinder (ISB)?If so I would start out with a few basic things like fuel pressure and error codes. Fuel pressure needs be checked at idle and WOT at highway speeds. Both of these things will tell a story about the fuel system and what the problem might be.

P1688 and P1689 is a VP44 death codes more so the P1688.The P1602 I'm not sure of some point to SKIM error in the PCM, some point to cruise control error, etc...

I just wanted to alert everyone to the wireless limitations. At least people in my area have the idea that wireless is secure and you don't have worry about it. :duh:Like my wireless is harden up quite a bit. I'm using WEP signal (encrptyed), then I'm NOT broadcasting my SSID, then on top of that I'm firewalled for only certain MAC address devices. Basically my wireless doesn't exist to the public but only for my laptop can see it. :smart:Funny my neighbor left his wide open and I can hop on and see all his network... (Yes. I already warned him too!)

AirDog quick connections are known to leak air bubbles on the suction line. One of my pet peeves with AirDog systems.

3.7 L engine is unusual engine size. Could you give a bit more information on the build of engine you have or maybe a picture of it?But the rough idle could be a air problem where the fuel system is draining back and creating a air bubble. As you rev it up its capable of taking the air and pumping it through but idling its just start to stumble.Being I really don't have any specs for a 3.7L I'm going to have to guess at it a bit.

Are you talking like HHO cells where you create hydrogen gas from water?I can't say that I have been you got to keep one thing in mind you don't get something for nothing. With that being said if it is the HHO cells your talking about you'll most likely find out that you put more load on the alternator trying to produce a very small amount of hydrogen gas.

That's a sweet idea Russ. :cool:I end up cussing mine out every time because the regulator would fall on the shaft and now you need 3 hands to get it back together. Good idea!

Be aware auto-ignition device like the refer and water heater work off of flame rectification to detect flame is burning or not. So if the spark electrode is corroded and the burner tube then the refer might be trying to light and can't see the flame so it shuts down instantly to prevent explosion hazard. Back to a older post Russ... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/4158-Norcold-refridgerator-propane-operation-trouble

Here is what I've got in my RV made by Progressive Dynamics Intellicharger... http://www.progressivedyn.com/prod_details/rv_conv/rv_converter_pd9140a_2.html Also have the charge wizard installed... http://www.progressivedyn.com/prod_details/charge_wizard_9105.html

Funny... I've got a tube of blue loctite here which I rarely ever use. I just torque the fastener down to it proper ft/lbs number and not bothered with locktite. My truck is still holding together...

Check this out I've been wandering through the database of applications for Ubuntu (Synaptic Package Manager) and stumbled across a cracking tool for hacking wireless signals. Produced for Linux... http://www.aircrack-ng.org/ This is why I really don't believe in wireless Internet nor like using it...

Here you go... This is what I got on the tongue of the RV. Just standard old deep cycle batteries what ever group they are. RV is moved for the summer to the shade of the trees but there is no power back here so once a week I bring out my 2kw genny and charge up the batteries for one hour.

Please don't assume just because you replace the pump every thing is good... Like this poor soul found out his AirDog 150 wasn't up to the job when he installed his fuel pressure gauge... http://youtu.be/NB8o24rw1eU

You might look and find out what you got for a battery charger. I've got a 3 stage battery charger (storage, normal and boost) which happen to totally automatic. So after a period of time the charger turns to storage mode.As for the refer the only thing it needs is enough power just for the controller. Last time I test ran mine with no shore power it ran over 14 days on propane and the batteries where just dipping in the 11.8 volts range. Just two standard RV Deep Cycle batteries.

First thing I would do is load test the batteries in the RV. Corroded cable are not a good thing either. :rolleyes:Curious... Did you keep the RV plugged in all winter to keep the batteries charged or are you removing the batteries and putting in a garage to maintain a charge on them? If the batteries where left in the RV and not charged the winter cold might of sucked a chunk of life from them. Hence one of the main reason I added a cutoff switch in the power cabinet. So if I'm no longer able to maintain a charge on the batteries I can cutoff all the little loads like the house stereo, propane alarm, etc. Because even after a week or two my batteries are pulled down to 12.0 Volts without a outside source to maintain a charge.

Welcome to the family...

Maybe you should talk to some of the big hauler here on the site like CajFlynn. There is a few guys here that haul heavy every day. Like myself I haul firewood all summer long.

Correct 2002 MAP sensors are no longer produced so you end up with a 2001 Sensor and adapter as seen in the second picture.

Oil cooler is behind the oil filter in the block.

That tells me the alternator most likely has bad diodes when you cover the lead with tinfoil (bandaid) you proved without a doubt your alternator is creating said AC noise. http-~~-//youtu.be/UveGtGuswBw

No. Because as long as its locked up it will not gear down it will remain it what ever gear its in.

Ended up running back to McCall, ID today for some other stuff and still keeping the MPG's nice and high... http://g.co/maps/5syup