Mopar1973Man

Funny... I just put my silencer ring back in ... :lmao:But yes a pair of small screwdrivers and lift the ring up and the other to push it out of the groove. The is no gain/loss to taking it out or putting it back in... Just extra noise...

Have to look up speed rating with the manufacture or dealer site page...

Yeap those are done... :rolleyes:I've got a set of towmax tire on my Jayco Eagle and absolutely no problems. 235/75 R15 Load Range D's... I know my tires have a 65 MPH speed limit and so does the state of Idaho for towing. But since I live in the mountain its just easier to tow at 55 MPH... Like I said no tire issues... :thumbup2:Just to stir the pot more... :stirthepot:I've got 235/85 R16's ST trailer tires on the truck that are a load range G and zero issues... (Speed rated for 100 MPH)

100 HP injectors are a bit big for MPG purpose...As for the clutch its most likely going if its slipping. So the best thing you can do now is put the money away for a new clutch and ready ready to yank it out. Because a clutch should never slip.Quick question is there any fuel leaking or oil leaking around the bellhousing?

It has something to do with the pure size and length of the pipe that causes them to be loud. It seem the larger diameter tend to drone and amplify sound the longer and larger diameters. After riding in Relentless70 92 Dodge truck with a hood stack proved that to me instantly.

Could go back to 3" and straight pipe... It not as loud...

Mine starts out at about 28.6 and goes to 33.7 if I remember right... I never used the SGII for boost reading but its was good for seeing if the sensor actual changes... That's about it... Actually the SG displays PSIa (atomphere) so at idle it should be 14.3 PSIa (0 Boost) and then go up to about 22-25 PSI or 25+14.3=39.3 PSIa --- Update to the previous post... I've got video coming really soon! Processing as we speak! --- Update to the previous post... Here you go... http-~~-//youtu.be/7RhrgFWaIvY

Hmmm... Won't work for me... Closest OReilly's is 180 miles away... So figuring in fuel cost to go get it it would be more like $300 figuring against $4.609 a gallon... When a LarryB contact rebuild is cheap and comes in the mail...

Your welcome... I've used LarryB in both the 96 Dodge Ram 1500 and in the 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 (Cummins) both worked excellent... Also be aware there is a brush kit too for these starters so you really have to break something before needing a replacement...

I'm a straight piped 3" for over 7 years and never had a noise complaint and local sheriff doesn't care nor does the state police... As a matter of fact Relentless70 has a 4" hood stack and its fairly quiet. Then to top it off a turbo is considered a muffling device in Idaho so muffler are optional. Might check you local codes to see if turbo is considered a muffling device...

I had to post this up for people... I know there is a lot of guys towing trailers out there and I figure it would be great sticky for the site. http://www.hitchemup.com/statetowinglaws.htm

Yeap... Those are really simple things to rebuild... I remember all those years of buying a starter for my old Charger... Now what I know about starters I'd rather rebuild them myself...

After driving to McCall, ID to take care a few things I relized the transmission shifts much more milder and hold the gear much longer before kicking down ro gear changing. Really a pleasure to drive now and I wonder if the MPG's are rising a bit from it...

At about 150K miles I changed my hoses and replaced them I kept the old ones because they look just fine. So as for part store hose are fine...

Here is a few tidbit passed down form Rogan... Find your terminal program and get to know it... ls -lh (Directory list of the current folder) pwd (Current folder) cd (change directory) sudo (super user or root) Then how to deal with folder is easy using TAB key. so it would be cd hom{tab}/mic{tab} which would spell out cd /home/michael/ for on my machine. If you hit tab twice it given the folder listing for where your at in the command. More on BASH commands... http://ss64.com/bash/ As you made a comment of want to try others... CentOS RedHat Ubuntu Here is a another site full of links... http://distrowatch.com/

Been down that road before long time ago in Cally... I suggest you find a different way home...

Actually that is since I booted up in Linux so next time I flip flop back and forth between Windows / Linux that Up Time will be reset... I'm hoping eventually dump windows out of my life... --- Update to the previous post... I'm going to leave the Linux up and running tonight so for those of you want to snoop on the other server go for it...

Right on... You made it to the other side... We have cookies!

Between Rogan and myself I cand guide you to getting setup with Ubuntu Linux... I highly suggest you get x64 workstation not the x64 Server. As a noob you'll want to use the graphical interface a bit more till you get you feet wet with the terminal screen. Most everything is done a terminal windows kind of like a DOS box. But with lots more power. The other fact is in Linux you are not setup as a Admin (root). Your setup as a user so all the high power functions as disable like installing software etc. Now Ubuntu is good about software because you can search there software database and it will install it for you. If you have call me I'll guide you in Linux... (Posted with Ubuntu / Firefox)

:lmao2:I'm not that good... Ummm... It been about 2 weeks getting this put together.

Just for the learning experience I'm building a web server here on this computer I normally use... It currently setup as a dual boot Ubuntu Linux 11.10 x64 and Windows Vista x64. So I went through and install LAMP server on Ubuntu and then installed Webmin WHM (Web Hosting Manager). Started thinking well it would be kind of fun to let some of you test drive the server and play with it. So I hooked up no-ip.com and installed it software to give me a free domain name with a dynamic IP. Now mind you if my computer goes down or I'm booted in Windows Vista the site will be gone... But here is a sneak peak at the site so far... http://mopar1973man.no-ip.org <- Part of the home page from the actual site... http://mopar1973man.no-ip.org/phpsysinfo/index.php?disp=dynamic <- A look at the server stats.

Just learned something new on the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 (5.9L V8 Gasser). I've always had a weird shift pattern where the trans would kick out of 4th and into 3rd hold for a long time and then shift up if you let the throttle out to near idle. Finally got off my rear and desided to look into this weird issue. So I started with the kickdown linkage. When I read up on the linkage adjustment it sohlud move together. I figure I better check the lever on the transmission. Guess what I found a spring hanging in the hole of the arm and the lever wasn't returning all the way back because said spring wasn't hooked up. :duh:So Hooked up the spring and re-adjusted the cable and shift issues are gone. It shifts really good... Not to hard and not to mushy...

From what I know its the rail pressure spikes high and it takes time at idle rate to consume the rail pressure so each injector is shooting a bit hot of a spray till the rail pressure comes down. You'd see this better if you had a rail pressure gauge.(Educated guess...)

Welcome to the Family... Make sure you ask lots of question and maybe find a few friends...

Say for instance I rig up my boost gauge to check drive pressure... So how could I adjust a Jacobs brake? Hmm.. Thinking I've got a 0 - 100 PSI water pressure gauge I could rig up in the pyrometer hole for testing purpose... So how would I???