Mopar1973Man

A/C compressor stay on full time. Temp knob had no bearing on the A/C compressor. But it will blend heat into the air...

See I told you... So if you want to control heat (EGT's or Coolant) take your foot off the throttle and allow the truck to do it job without being rushed. Now all you got to do is catch up to my MPG marks now so far I'm averaging 13-14 MPG (towing) 22-23 MPG (empty). Something none of thought of is a boost leak... :banghead:

Dang... There isn't any buses up here in this part of Idaho so I guess I'm safe... :lmao2:As for the input shaft and flexplate I don't see the need for upgrade really. But as for the TQ converter that is what is going to take a beating. If the clutch is weak it will slip. Then you know you got to drop lockup to gear down and then hit lockup again to gain Exhaust brake function. I know the 47RE trans has a history of weak input shafts and flexplates but I don't see anything that the exhaust brake is doing more that acceleration to exhaust braking. But I'll have to bow out of this one being I'm not a auto guru...

That is a PITA... I was hoping you had a wall that you could say peel open and add a stud to. But with cabinets on one side and tub on the other just ain't happening easy. I heard of several people managing to peel open walls and adding studs for there new flatscreen TV's. Easy no... But it can be done...

MAX A/C is the only position that closes off the outside air and recirc the cabin air. All other positions use outside air. Recirc ....................... MAX A/COutside Air ................ A/C, Bi-level, Vent, Floor, DEF/Floor, DEFA/C Compressor ON .... MAX A/C, A/C, Bi-level, DEF/Floor, DEF

Your DVM accuracy is rather low on AC it appears... I went out and grabbed my 23 year old Fluke 75 DVM and re-tested on my Cummins... Rest Voltage Battery Volts AC ............. 0.001 VAC Battery Volts DC ............. 12.62 VDC Running Voltage Battery Volts AC ............. 0.011 to 0.019 VAC Battery Volts DC ............. 14.02 VDC (72*F outside temp) 0.100 Volts AC isn't a problem really... It when you see 14-28 VAC on the DVM.

Ahhh... I'm glad it worked out for you and got you fixed up quick...

The only way my RV leave the yard is hitched to my tuck and no one else's... I will not loan a RV or even my truck to some one...

Flagmanruss asked if I would be nice to post this up for him...

Normal... That's torque management in 1st and 2nd Gears but hit 3rd gear the smoke rolls and the truck sling shots out of the hole. :burnout2:Torque management is released at about 20-30 MPH.The only way to completely remove that is get a RADBox from BD and it will kill the instrument cluster but there will no longer be any torque management.

No I don't have one... But the simple solution is when you get to dusty areas turn the the HVAC over to Max A/C and close off the outside air and recirc your air. No problem. 10 years of driving dusting Idaho road I've never plugged a evaporator core.Good tip...

If you wish you can start a thread and vote for it...

Actually a shorted diode is typically what causes the TQ Conv. lock/unlock issues. Actually so far the few that I've found do not over power the fuse and blown but continue pumping roughly 14-28 VAC into the circuit but on the VDC scale its still 13.5 to 14.5 VDC. The ATS fix basically takes a floating ground created by the ECM and turns into a true ground. So now if the alternator has a shorted diode on the negative side the AC wave has a perfect path to the PCM now that grounded the APPS lead. Then the ECM no longer provides the signal to the PCM but now the APPS is doing directly. There was a reason for the ECM and PCM when not wired this way in the firs place. What I look at is the fact these truck cover 9-11 years of time then now you got to consider chopping up the wiring for this little problem? (ATS wire mod, BD filter, etc.) Ok?! Then why don't why don't we see this problem over on gasoline vehicles why don't they have to chop up wiring and add filters? Why only the Cummins Automatics? PCM's are suppose to be that exact same. Let figure out the problem not band-aid the issues. As for the heat problem might be true down south. But like up here I'm still seeing temps 45-50 then might get to 60-65*F not hot buy no means. But still find ECM, VP44 failures (with > 14 PSI), ABS issues... Now I've not had a chance to apply the alternator though yet to check some of these weird failure but I will on the next one I run into. Like you see over on CF.com there is a few people that have a rash of VP44 failures with a Airdod, FASS or Raptor pumps that has good fuel pressure its entire life. This would be a good canidate to check alternator on.

Yeah but if the alternator is the source of the ripple and now feeding it to all systems (ECM, PCM, ABS, airBag, Etc.) So filtering the PCM cures the TQ lockup issues but how about VP4 failures, ECM failin, etc... I'm figuring that some of these failures are from the AC from a shorted diode. Why is it that the rest of the problem disappear when the alternator fuse is removed? This why I'm still highly against the idea of using filters, extra grounds, etc... Because all you do is band-aid the problem but the alternator is still beating up every other electronic device on the truck. Why not fix the source of the AC noise? :shrug:Because if the diode failure happens on the negative side then AC pours through the grounds... If it happens on the positive side then some filtering might occur but still most DC electronics are not designed for AC noise.Here is a basic alternator circuit... Take notice there is 6 diodes (3 positive and 3 negative) if I should short out in either side that will be the side the AC waveform leak out on... More diodes fail the worse the problem gets. But in the DC life the gauge will continue to read 14 Volts even though the diodes are bleeding AC wave form.

Like on MoparMom's 96... The vacuum line to the cruise control was cracked but the cruise still worked for the most part but the vents would default to DEF every time I'd climb a hill. So I just finally gave up and replaced all the tubing under the hood to kill this problem. Because I was chasing the HVAC when it was the cruise control that was the cause even though it still worked. :banghead:

Busted... I forgot about that but isn't weird that both your old 99 and my 02 have kept there OE joint this long but a AAM axles have joint issues?

Something is going on if the water pump is rather new and built up that junk? Plain weird if the coolant is not all that old and now depositing junk on the water pump... Never is...

Is this it?

Dang I wish I could see what you wall looks like... What make and model of RV do you have again?

I'm still running the factory OEM joints yet, never been greased and no problems. The only thing I can think of that would be doing this is you have a shaft that is damaged/bent or there is bearing issues on one end or another.

Now if you keep you coolant changed / flushed every 30K this wouldn't be happening...

Exactly... There is a loss of vacuum for sure on the HVAC system that why there is no vacuum. The source vacuum should be on the black tube. All other tubes are function tubes in other words they are slected as you twist the knob. So if the black line going back out the firewall is damaged then there will be no vent controls. As for the vacuum pump is strong enough to over come a leak and still keep other feature working yet. (CAD and Cruise control)

As for weights... [TABLE] [TR] [TD][/TD] [TD] Scale [/TD] [TD=align: center] Maximum Weight[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] GAWR Front[/TD] [TD=width: 27%] 4,040 [/TD] [TD=width: 27%, align: center] 5,200[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 46%] GAWR Rear[/TD] [TD=width: 27%] 4,280 [/TD] [TD=align: center] 6,084[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 46%] GVWR [/TD] [TD=width: 27%] 8,320 [/TD] [TD=align: center] 8,800[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 46%] GCWR [/TD] [TD=width: 27%] 16,080 [/TD] [TD=align: center] 20,000[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 46%] Trailer Weight [/TD] [TD=width: 27%] 7,760 [/TD] [TD=align: center] 13,650[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 46%] Tongue Weight[/TD] [TD=width: 27%] [/TD] [TD=align: center] 900[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] As for the edge Comp... Main level are how much maximum fuel and timing your going to give... 1. 40 HP 2. 60 HP 3. 80 HP 4. 100 HP 5. 120 HP Sublevels are how faster you get to maximum fuel and timing in relationship to boost. Now remember levels 1-3 are BELOW stock rate and will most likely make MPG worse because no timing is given till you exceed the boost limit. This levels are defuel modes typically use for smoke control. 1. 33% of stock fuel/timing till 20 PSI of boost. 2. 50% of stock fuel/timing till 15 PSI of boost. 3. 67% of stock fuel/timing till 10 PSI of boost. These are power modes. 5 will given instant timing across the full range of boost where all other sublevel will not. this is the best sublevel to use for MPG while even towing. 4. Some extra fuel and timing given at 0 boost. 5. Full fuel and timing given at 0 boost. So if you trying to control heat then you change main level but keep your sublevel high. (1x5, 2x5, 3x5, 4x5, 5x5) being main level controls maximum fuel and timing where sublevel only changes when you get it. But still the funny part is no matter what level to use to tow your RIGHT FOOT is what makes heat. Like I said you can shut off the Edge Comp and still never change the EGT's on bit climbing a hill. Because the Edge Comp goes off the power is lost so you foot drops more to hold speed and EGT climb right back up. Once again its about slowing down...

Might be time to consider a fan clutch. There really isn't a test for it other than put a load on the truck make it climb a steep hill. Since I've got all these steep forestry roads I normally hear it in a short period of time after starting my way up the mountain. Got to admit it sounds wicked to hear the fan kick in at 15-25 MPH climbing steep mountain roads...

Side note...Since you coming my way and going to pass my place you better stop in and let me look at that beast. Also take my phone numbers down from the 911 listing before you set out because I'd be more than willing to try and bail you out if your in my neighborhood.