Mopar1973Man

Yes I split it out of the other thread to prevent hijacking... (Doing my job!)

Any coolant will work. I'm using a prestone, WalMart SuperTech, or Napa coolant.

Years ago I convert a older Dodge Ram Charger to a doorless hunting rig for a friend. What I did was pulled the door pop the pins out and put then in from the other side and sanded the pins slightly. So it was easy to take a small hammer pop the pins and load the door in back and cruise the mountain roads doorless...

Dripley your fan might be locked solid too.As for cold free spin mine is so tight that I can pull the belt around 1/4 turn. But now start the truck drive 1 mile and then shut down and check again now it spins rather freely.I check to make sure it not locked solid with the hose test. Both the 96 and 02 behave the same way.

I flush and change coolant yearly (30K miles) and change the thermostat at the same time. Remember everything the coolant touches can be affected. So if the coolant pH level goes acidic (below 7) then oil cooler, head gasket, radiator, heater core, water pump seals, etc all are affected by corrosion of the acidic coolant. So I flush regularly to keep the pH at 7 as much as possible. I've never seen a scale bloom in my radiator nor a coolant leak yet. (Coming up on 200K miles 10 years!) So I know my head gasket is still strong and will take 45-50 PSI without thinking...

No kidding...

I do...16,000-17,000 GCW I can easily hit 35 PSI on hold it on a 7% grade but typically don't. If I had a 0-60 PSI gauge and a good adjustable boost elbow I bump the boost limit to 40 PSI. But I don't have either. :whistle:You'll find the people that blow headgaskets at a low pressure have not been keeping up with coolant changes and the gasket get weak and blows.

Naw... 800 Miles / 50 MPH = 16 Hours 800 Miles / 60 MPH = 13.3 Hours 800 Miles / 70 MPH = 11 Hours So there is a few extra hours...

No not a big difference till your built for full track use. Even then its a mild increase...

Drink it...

How to drive with Edge Comp on 5x5... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=0O0DPqqbryA Then calibrated MPG on a ScanGauge II... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRQdoPs_tLo

I hate to say but 90% of everything is made in China... So does it matter what brand of part you buy??? There is very little as far a companies that produce, assemble and sell within the US any more. Sometime the parts are made in China and assembled here and other times it all done over there... I can't count the time I find a name brand product made in China or some foreign land. Once again why I don't bother with name brands any longer... Sad but true...As for the Coors / Keystone well there is a small town of Whitebird, ID here in the state that happens to hold the biggest account for Keystone beer.

Answers in bold.

Speed limit here locally is 65 MPH but Idaho doesn't have a minimum speed limit so I set my cruise for 55 MPH and yield to traffic behind me. What do I have to hurry for? Like I tell anyone if you want me to drive fast pay for my fuel I'll drive as fast as you want me too. But since I'm paying for the fuel I'll drive as slow as I want too. Yes I've actually dropped cruise as low as 50 MPH in 65 MPH because there is no one around. I'll kick back, turn up the tunes and enjoy the ride... Once again what am I in a hurry for?

Hey now Vista x64 was a good OS... I'm still using it... (On the other side of this dual boot computer).But if you want a real OS... There is always Linux... :whistle:As for the mouse issues you might have to get to the mouse control panel and then not using the mouse but the keyboard and getting the setting changed. Tab key should jump you around from option to option and the arrow keys to change the option and enter should apply.

When cold you should be capable of stopping the blade with a old radiator hose... When hot you should hear it lock up and sound like a turbo prop taking off... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=QeKndmCy_yk

Remember crossing over 2K on the tach your losing MPG's really quick...

Kind of got the the same thing its like a bit of slop in the gears or drivetrain. I normally it doesn't bother me...

Several other factor like tire size, rotational weight, etc... I've seen with my own eyes After I dyno'ed that day my buddy dyno'ed his 97 1 ton and was just under me by about 5 HP. I teased and egg'ed him on. It got him so bad that he got off the rollers and pull the outer duals off and got back on beat me by about 15 more HP. This proves rotational weight of the axle plays a role in HP totals.Then I watch several huge jacked up Ford trucks with 37" tire barely roll 200-250 HP because of the losses in the tires...Remember I'm a big fan of 235's...

RockAuto has the door hinge pin kits for super cheap like 5 bucks. As for the cam assembly...

I can give you this much... * AirDog 150 * BHAF * Straight pipe 3" exhaust * Edge Comp (wire tapped) 381/831 - Dyno'ed Meridian Motorsports 2007 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/members-rides/17-mopar1973man/145-2002-dodge-ram-dyno-results So I'm right at 400 HP to the ground with Rv275's now... So now also consider all the weak link. * Transmission (manual or auto) will require updated input shaft, torque converter (auto) or better clutch. * Head gasket is good for 40-50 PSI but that's about it. So your talking about 65 PSI boost at least. Rule of thumb is 1 PSI makes 10 HP. * Valve springs will need to be updated to 90 pound. You'll find the farther you cross the 400-450 HP mark the less reliable the truck will be come and more prone to failure.

Like going over to RockAuto their cheapest fan clutch is $98 buck made by Hayden (5 yr / 50k mile warranty).Hayden is a good brand but still cheap...Then the expensive 4 seasons at $125 bucks... (1 yr / 12K miles) :rolleyes:Each their own... But I would buy the cheap one!

I'm glad to hear your still part of the family.

Well as for noises I had a intake bolt pop out and make whistle / blowing noise...