Mopar1973Man

Several other factor like tire size, rotational weight, etc... I've seen with my own eyes After I dyno'ed that day my buddy dyno'ed his 97 1 ton and was just under me by about 5 HP. I teased and egg'ed him on. It got him so bad that he got off the rollers and pull the outer duals off and got back on beat me by about 15 more HP. This proves rotational weight of the axle plays a role in HP totals.Then I watch several huge jacked up Ford trucks with 37" tire barely roll 200-250 HP because of the losses in the tires...Remember I'm a big fan of 235's...

RockAuto has the door hinge pin kits for super cheap like 5 bucks. As for the cam assembly...

I can give you this much... * AirDog 150 * BHAF * Straight pipe 3" exhaust * Edge Comp (wire tapped) 381/831 - Dyno'ed Meridian Motorsports 2007 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/members-rides/17-mopar1973man/145-2002-dodge-ram-dyno-results So I'm right at 400 HP to the ground with Rv275's now... So now also consider all the weak link. * Transmission (manual or auto) will require updated input shaft, torque converter (auto) or better clutch. * Head gasket is good for 40-50 PSI but that's about it. So your talking about 65 PSI boost at least. Rule of thumb is 1 PSI makes 10 HP. * Valve springs will need to be updated to 90 pound. You'll find the farther you cross the 400-450 HP mark the less reliable the truck will be come and more prone to failure.

Like going over to RockAuto their cheapest fan clutch is $98 buck made by Hayden (5 yr / 50k mile warranty).Hayden is a good brand but still cheap...Then the expensive 4 seasons at $125 bucks... (1 yr / 12K miles) :rolleyes:Each their own... But I would buy the cheap one!

I'm glad to hear your still part of the family.

Well as for noises I had a intake bolt pop out and make whistle / blowing noise...

Jag don't sweat it... Do you relize it took me till now to figure this out and come up with a solution for this small problem. Lots of head scratchin' went into it.

Well if the minimum is 11.5 PSI so being +5 over 11.5 isn't going to hurt at all consider it reserve pressure. I'm going to assume that CP3 relies on a certain amount of return fuel for cooling and lubing purpose since I know they do have a overflow valve. So if you could look up the open and close pressure of the CP3 overflow valve would help figure out what is actual needed...

If you converted all your plumbing over to old school JIC and PushLoc's you'll be 100% air tight and solid on the plumbing where as the quick connects loose there sealing ability because they rely on O rings. But over time the O-rings will deform and leak. Where the old school JIC fittings are a compression fitting that has nothing to fail.

Not valid... Reason being is the truck ran for 10-12 years with out a single issue then now it pops up a TQ Conv lock/unlock issues. Ok still the alternator field is wired up but the output line is open so if the field wiring is the cause then pulling the fuse should of continued the problem but its doesn't. So the only thing on the output line of the alternator is... Stator -> Diodes ------ Wire ----> Fuse-> Battery Also being that the alternator starts out with 3 phase AC power got a wonderful source of AC noice if 1 doide is shorted.

:think:Personally I don't think its too high really. Little extra pressure keeping return flow is a good thing but carried away with pressure and adding like 20-25 PSI way over kill. (VP44 think again).Now once again I'm short on inofrmation about the 6.7L CP3 ands it overflow valve and such...

Be careful with the in-sender pickup tube. I've seen several people screw up and kink the suction line and cause flow problems or trim the pickup tube to short and then have air issues.

If factory low limit is 11.5 PSI I would get a light that was slightly above this or use a adjustable Hobbs switch.Like on the VP44 (which is a different animal I know) book limit is 10 PSI but the overflow starts closing at 14 PSI so actually the cooling function of the VP44 is reduced getting down to 10 PSI. Now as for the CP3 I know they have a overflow valve as well but unknown to me what the open/close pressures are...

No disrespect to you all but I think this thread title has run its course and I'm going to close it out...

Good read there Tom!

As for the shift problem I would have to say check line pressures, band adjustment, maybe change fluid and filter... :think:As for the smiley yea we've got one...

Could you post a link to a web site? (please!)

Thank you... Kind words like these is what keeps me going.

Here is the hydrobooster rebuild article... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/33-brake-system/79-brake-hydrobooster-rebuild As for vacuum direct brake booster were on the 1st Gens and then upgraded to the hydrobooster later in the 2nd gens.

What is bugging me to no end is the fact there is all these wild write up of people adjusting APPS sensors, wiring mods, extra grounds, filters, etc. I still say the truck ran fine without any of these mods for 10-12 years and now it needs it... I doubt highly. I say there is a part that is failed and needs to addressed not band-aided over. The more and more I kept studying this and the more I ran into people with this issue and what they done never resolves the issue. But now this is the second phone call where I helped a owner with this issue and found that just unhooking the alternator fuse and the problem goes away tests me instantly the alternator is at fault...Another way to verify...

Tear in the boots causing the whine?

Vacuum pump is the little unit the bolts in between the gear case and the power steering pump. Yes the vacuum pump uses engine oil to lubricate the vacuum pump. Yes... Power steering fluid is pumped into the hydro booster.

Naw I won't kill your post but I'll move it and make a separate thread from it... :cool:But talking to Pepsi71Ocean abut his problem there is a tidbit of info about the torque converter being locked in park and if the system is draining down it might take too long to pump the fluid to the torque converter to unlock it. So if you place the trans in Neutral for a short period it should allow the pump to pump fluid in the system and prime it up.

Ok Gang...I've got a for sure way to diagnose torque converter lock up issues where it lock and unlocks at about 45-50 MPH. I had a gent call me yesterday with this problem and he's replace both batteries, alternator and the APPS sensor. Attempted all the different wiring issues (adding ground, tinfoil etc.) nothing worked. Like I told him the truck ran 11 years without all this stuff and doesn't require any wiring change to make it work. What it needs is the damaged part to be replaced. So he's returned the wiring back to stock setup.Now I told him to unhook the alternator fuse and take it for a ride... Guess what... No problems! Even though he replaced the alternator it has a damaged diode in it and it bleeding AC noise into the electrical system.So before doing any wiring mods, tinfoil, adding grounds, adding filter... PLEASE! Bench test your alternator! This is the second time I've suggested this and both time resolved the torque converter lock up issue.

Basically going to be short the HP... You'll only get roughly 40-60 HP without the wire...