Mopar1973Man

Might be a loose wire connection that got hot while cranking the starter. Was it in the cab or in the under the hood?

Or its a bit of a air leak in the fuel system.Or weak fuel pressure from overflow valve issue.

Get a second person and watch the cables on the axle and be sure they are working properly. I come to find out last fall my passenger side cable had rusted solid and created the same issue you have no amount of adjustment could fix it.

Is the E Brake pedal returning full into the up position?

D'Oh! Well it all depends on how deep your pockets are...

Fuse cracked did it?

Why did you change your mind?

Edge Juice has a turbo timer function that might be screwed up and holding the ignition on. Try tapping your brakes and see if it dies or double check your Edge setting. Even better yet pull the Edge loose and test again.

Check your manifold bolts I've had one come loose and pop out hit the hood and fall back into the injection lines. That little hole is enough of a leak to drop you from typical max pressure down to 8-10 PSI and very smokey.

Maybe that's why the AirDog and FASS pumps with twin filter have a prefilter / water separator before the pump. Just something else to consider when building a fuel system or your truck. More filters the better the protection.

Remember todays ATF in nothing like 1970's ATF which was just red dye hydraulic fluid. Now its got friction modifiers, anti-scorching compounds, high ash content etc... Not exactly a good thing for the engine or the fuel system.

That was most likely CajFlynn... He called here asking for Texas state members.

So it was a flame sense problem...It's odd they don't use a better material like stainless steel or something that doesn't oxide over time...:whistle:Yellow jackets, bald face hornets, etc... I really don't have much likely for them even though I'm not allergic to then but hate being stung by them too. OUCH! I normally go on the hunt looking for the starting of nest and get them dealt with pronto.

Now it explains why Dodge 1st Gens and early 2nd Gens did awesome for MPG and then as the years rolled on they got worse. Can't have a good MPG vehicle in US.

900 The CCD data bus is not operational. 920 The cluster is not receiving a vehicle speed message from the PCM. 921 The cluster is not receiving a distance pulse message from the PCM. 940 The cluster is not receiving an airbag lamp-on message from the ACM. 950 The cluster is not receiving an ABS lamp-on message from the CAB. 999 An error has been discovered. Sounds like you got a NO BUS message and lost CCD Network communication with the console. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/81-ccd-data-bus

Check this out... High MPG vehicles not allowed in the US! http://youtu.be/uBnlXGvA1Wk

Check the blue wire to the alternator it should be +12V and the green wire should be a variable ground. Now if you unhook the green wire and add a ground from the alternator to ground itself the alternator should be in full runaway overcharging. Did you check the alternator fuse?

He's in Canada... I do have the limits for the US... http://www.towingworld.com/articles/TowingLaws.htm

Public scale and find out huh... I scale out at 7,300# (3311.224 Kg) This should help. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1546&d=1301768538

As a last resort you could visit this site and ask them... http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php As for the flame sensor (flame rectification) is what is suppose to tell the control board to hold the propane going. Here is the manufacture... Maybe something might help... http://www.thetford.com/HOME/PRODUCTS/NorcoldIncRefrigerators/N641/tabid/540/Default.aspx A quick search turns up a bunch... https://www.google.com/search?q=norcold+refrigerator+flame+problems&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=ubuntu&channel=fs

I assume you talking engine oil from the vacuum pump area... http://www.fixinrams.com/id14.html

WOT = Wide Open Throttle (at highway speed)I was just wondering if the lift pump is running low pressure under load causing other issues...

Like if I wanted to I could pack up my laptop, 300w inverter into my pickup and fire up the laptop hunting for a WiFi signal in a town like McCall, ID. Park my truck on the street or parking lot and tap someone's WiFi. Now being a honest person I would just surf my web site and go on about my way. But if your criminal with a stolen credit card, looking to do illegal hacking, etc well this is the perfect place to do it. Because you now got Internet access with a non traceable IP address and nobody knows where your at. It just that the provider of Internet signal takes the fall for the illegal actions because there IP from there wireless hub is logged on what ever server. Like I know my wireless hub has about 500-750 foot range which basically over to the neighbors place too. Once again if I left my WiFi router up and running (broadcasting) even with WEP security it not truly secure as I pointed out. All I'm doing is alerting you all to the fact if it transmitted over the air by radio waves I'm sure someone can/will listen in. If you want a more secure environment I would consider wired if you can. :wink:FYI: Wired networks can travel at speeds up up to 1 Gigabit. Where most wireless are 53 Megabit and lower depending on signal strength.

Like taking a manual tranny and leaving in high gear and rolling up to a stop sign and stopping with only the brake and not pushing the clutch in.

No kidding... That was a impressive thread...