Mopar1973Man

Possibly a gear case cover is needing sealing again (loose bolts). Most like your right on th turbo return line... :thumbup2:Mine is getting a bit wet with oil around the front too...

No you got a lift pump that is drawing too many amp or not drawing enough amps. In other words there is a problem internally in the lift pump that is causing to draw more amps than normal (damage bearings?) and throwing this code.

Well after spending over an hour laying on my back with a prybar I never could find anything loose or broken. So I proceeded to fix the torn fender on the driver side. So far for the last two outing its not made any noise...

Both the Goldwing and the Rancher both are water cooled... Both have wet clutches... But share the lube oil in the transmission... The difference is the Goldwing has bigger oil filter than the Rancher and holds 1 extra quart.What's truely sad is the tiny oil filter on the Rancher is the same price as my oil filter for the Cummins...

Closing in on 3K miles and 300 hours.I was also using 15w-40 Chevron Delo for quite awhile then switched over to 10w-30 now.

Looking at that pic... That looks like the timing advance cover on the VP44...

Just setup up the engine size (5.9L), fuel tank size (34 or 35 Gallon), Fuel Type is (Diesela), Fuel Cutoff is (0)...Now calibrate both the speed to a GPS and the fueling calibration above.

Well I'm not most young people... But I do ride it hard now and then. But still and all the Goldwing is a wet clutch too and ridden hard as well up dirt road with high temps and the whole bit and change oil every 6K...

Well I'm closer to getting to the finish line... I finally figured out the printer driver issues. Now have both computers hooked up on one printer. As for the solution to the printer... http://ubuntuforums.org/showthread.php?p=11781593#post11781593 So now I'm moving forward and getting software and getting thing setup more...

Ahhh... There's your restriction... http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Universal-Big-Line-Filter-to-Injection-Pump-Kit-w-p/ffip59.htm

He's (Relentless70) got the sheet other than I can say he got 224/571 out of 600K miled 160 HP engine... :thumbup2:I was trying to vid record the computer and the results but the raster problem killed the video... :banghead:

Ahh... Waterhammer... You might consider a mechanical gauge. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/34-fuel-pressure-gauge-and-water-hammer-effects

Russ is right... Like I'm running a ScanGauge II and dead on... I'm capable of calibrating for tire size and fueling changes where the overhead computer is off once you change tires or fueling mods... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRQdoPs_tLo

Here is Relentless70's Dyno Run...

No... You need to look at the wheel studs for clips. There will be round clips holding the rotor in place. Now when you remove them you'll most likely distroy the clips. Then back off the E-brakes shoes by turning the starwheel towards the axle. Might have to rap on the rotor to free it but...

Mine I idle @ 19 PSI and WOT @ 17 PSI... 13 PSI is low...

Build like Old School Pureflow Brackets...

Fuel pressure is dropping way too much and the idle pressure is way too high.Here is what I'm running... I've got no problem keeping it at 19 @ idle and 17 @ WOT. Maximum amount of fall you should see is about 5 PSI from idle to WOT. But that hard fall is pointing to a poor lift pump, restricted filter, or restricted plumbing.

I'm sure you have a CCD network issue. Causes...

:lmao:It's all good Russ! It's all good!

Now that I return home from the Dyno Event in Meridian, ID I can tackle the popping noise on the truck. (No. I didn't take my truck!) But just normal driving you don't feel it at all no problems. But as soon as I turn a hard corner or like back up to turn around you'll get the pop. It feels like it right next to the driver side kick panel. Geez Russ... I just feel the love with that one... Only if you'll test it out creeper ride first... Well when I pull it together today I'll take the truck now to the shop and jack it up and look a little deeper into it!

Hmmm... Diesel here is $4.609 right now... Gasoline is 3.859... Then Propane is $3.50 rouglhy a gallon...

Ok your going to need a fuel pressure gauge for sure... Watch the video and you'll see how to test fuel pressure. The center gauge is fuel pressure. In this video I was idling at 17.5 PSI and WOT at 15 PSI. Good numbers. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=grl72Up-8T0 As for error codes many of them will not trip the light. Check engine light is not a good way to judge you condition. Most error codes are silent and don't trip the light. So grab a OBDII code reader and check it out...

I'd still put the holes in... Apparently there is a reason for it if some of them blew the shims...

Ok to humor you guys who would I go to get the bushings?