Mopar1973Man

Right on... You made it to the other side... We have cookies!

Between Rogan and myself I cand guide you to getting setup with Ubuntu Linux... I highly suggest you get x64 workstation not the x64 Server. As a noob you'll want to use the graphical interface a bit more till you get you feet wet with the terminal screen. Most everything is done a terminal windows kind of like a DOS box. But with lots more power. The other fact is in Linux you are not setup as a Admin (root). Your setup as a user so all the high power functions as disable like installing software etc. Now Ubuntu is good about software because you can search there software database and it will install it for you. If you have call me I'll guide you in Linux... (Posted with Ubuntu / Firefox)

:lmao2:I'm not that good... Ummm... It been about 2 weeks getting this put together.

Just for the learning experience I'm building a web server here on this computer I normally use... It currently setup as a dual boot Ubuntu Linux 11.10 x64 and Windows Vista x64. So I went through and install LAMP server on Ubuntu and then installed Webmin WHM (Web Hosting Manager). Started thinking well it would be kind of fun to let some of you test drive the server and play with it. So I hooked up no-ip.com and installed it software to give me a free domain name with a dynamic IP. Now mind you if my computer goes down or I'm booted in Windows Vista the site will be gone... But here is a sneak peak at the site so far... http://mopar1973man.no-ip.org <- Part of the home page from the actual site... http://mopar1973man.no-ip.org/phpsysinfo/index.php?disp=dynamic <- A look at the server stats.

Just learned something new on the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 (5.9L V8 Gasser). I've always had a weird shift pattern where the trans would kick out of 4th and into 3rd hold for a long time and then shift up if you let the throttle out to near idle. Finally got off my rear and desided to look into this weird issue. So I started with the kickdown linkage. When I read up on the linkage adjustment it sohlud move together. I figure I better check the lever on the transmission. Guess what I found a spring hanging in the hole of the arm and the lever wasn't returning all the way back because said spring wasn't hooked up. :duh:So Hooked up the spring and re-adjusted the cable and shift issues are gone. It shifts really good... Not to hard and not to mushy...

From what I know its the rail pressure spikes high and it takes time at idle rate to consume the rail pressure so each injector is shooting a bit hot of a spray till the rail pressure comes down. You'd see this better if you had a rail pressure gauge.(Educated guess...)

Welcome to the Family... Make sure you ask lots of question and maybe find a few friends...

Say for instance I rig up my boost gauge to check drive pressure... So how could I adjust a Jacobs brake? Hmm.. Thinking I've got a 0 - 100 PSI water pressure gauge I could rig up in the pyrometer hole for testing purpose... So how would I???

Ok... I can say no I don't monitor drive pressure... So how do I adjust it then?

I do notice there is a change of note on the exhaust brake at high RPM's. Sounds almost like a valve tick but only at high R's. :shrug:Has bothered performance of the exhaust brake, towing,etc... Truck still keeps going!

Ummm... As soon as the high country snow is gone... All bets are off. I'll be back to hauling firewood. The screaming beaver will be operational...

Staying home is cheaper yet...

Still 195K almost 196K... But the 96 is getting more miles now...

Enjoy your trip down under...

All FSM books are here... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=cat&id=19

Starter solenoid contacts? Starter brushes?

I will... It will only clear codes after 40 warm up cycles. So the engine must start below 140*F and rise above 165*F to be counted as a warm up cycle. Then it must not throw that same code again or it will reset the count to zero.

Or the field lead (green in the 2nd gens) on the alternator is shorted to ground. This would cause a wild runaway alternator. Or a possible voltage regulator problem (inbedded in the PCM 2nd Gen)AH64ID is the best man to answer this...

Cetane Low Cetane <---------------------------------------------------> High Cetane Octane High Octane <----------------------------------------------------> Low Octane Low cetane diesel burn slowly and difficult to ignite but contains the most BTU's simular to high octane gasoline. High cetane fuel burns very rapidly and easy to ignite but contains lower amount of BTU's simular to low octane gasoline.

I would just toss stock OEM master/slave units back in...

Now hence the idea of cutting the floor and laying in the pipe to drain away trapped water. After relizing the the old motorhome shed was dug down below the foundation level and that area isn't filling with water at the same time the house was so there is a underground spring under the house that is directly related to the runoff behind the main house.Because even Relentless70 brother suggested digging down next to the foundation to see if it would pool up... Well it should of on the wood shed side then...

Correct... 30 is too slow of a cetane level to burn properly... And yes 45 cetane is suggeste for winter use (Below +32*F) From my cetane page... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/67-diesel-fuel-cetane-rating-and-the-effects [TABLE] [TR=class: moparnote] [TD] Cummins Cetane Requirements for 1st, 2nd and 3rd Gen Trucks [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] A Cetane rating of 40 is recommended at temperatures above 32 degrees. [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] A Cetane rating of 45 is recommended at temperatures below 32 degrees. [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]

He's just adding naphthalene (Mothballs)... Solid form... (Mothballs) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naphthalene Liquid form... (Coleman Fuel) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naphtha Where it comes from... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Benzene be aware that each has its own abilities to alter the fuels ability to either ignite, burn, etc. May make it earlier or later... Like looking at mothballs I would say its a cetane reducer because its got a really high autoignition temperature where Naptha has a really low autoigintion temperature so that would be cetane booster.

Actually I would like to correct you... Cummins is designed for 40-45 Cetane not 45-55... 50 is optimum for smog reasons not for MPG... For racing apps yes 50-55 cetne is require to have a fuel that can burn fast enough at 4K on the tach. So since 50-55 cetane is so low in BTU content that why most reacing/pulling rigs smoke like freight trains they must over fuel to obtain the power that is lost in the lower BTU's. Like the DieselPower mag has a article on a 1,500 HP engine requires 600 GPH lift pump just to keep it happy then the compression is reduced to 12:1 why??? Because high cetane fuel would pre-ignite so early with 150 PSI of boost it would either blow the head or gasket or start busting pistons. So now getting back to daily drivers like us... I typically see 1,500 to 1,600 RPM's for cruising speeds of 55 MPH so now I need a fuel that burns properly to the RPM and load of the engine. My engine load is typically 10-30% on the flats so a low cetane fuel would produce way more power than a high cetane fuel would. Hence why my MPG's are much higher than most people... Then for fun I called the local Chevron station and got a copy of the fuel data and plugged it into the ASTM grade scale. So when you average it out its about 45 cetane.

Not required... B2 has more lubricity that 2 cycle oil... So if you got a choice I would try B2... Problem is B2 fuels have less BTU's than normal diesel so MPG number might fall. Petroluem diesel typically has better MPG value but lubricity is lower. Trade off time...