Mopar1973Man

If you need a noise filter then you got a alternator / ground issues... Remember most of these truck ran for 10 years now without this stuff and now it needs a filter... Something has failed. Don't cover it up with filter, extra ground or wiring mods...

That's the thing I know the bathroom happens to be the coldest room in my RV plus like you mention about freeze ups I've bee there done that with my old Dodge Jamboree. Needless to say I don't wan't to repeat that either. But like my orignal post I do see a conciderable waste of water trying to get hot water bathroom since its the longest run.

Just as bad here... 987 Miles and 16 hours... http://maps.google.com/maps?saddr=5525+highway+95,+New+Meadows,+ID&daddr=Bismarck,+ND&hl=en&sll=46.808327,-100.783739&sspn=0.181408,0.445976&geocode=FVFTsgIdoOoQ-SmD8YkE3eqmVDFpZd-f1YC6Mw%3BFQc9ygIdhSn--Slj6dhXEoPXUjGTyrv5Er2qzA&mra=ls&t=h&z=6

Now that is something worth looking into... Wow! Trailer supplies! I have to bookmark this!

My bathroom pipe were a absolute PITA to do... I have to pull lines loose just to gain enough room to push the foam on then fought to hook lines back up bacause now the foam is holding up space. But got it done...

Ummm... Mine is not a full time home... Its a RV (Recreational Vehicle)... But yes... That is another way of doing it if you going to be in once place for a long time.

Wild & Free started a new thread about a 911 Forum to hopefully continue this kind of aid! http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/5428-Possibility-of-a-911-help-forum

Yeap the guys are right... :smart:Vulcan Performance sells the Push Loc Tees that have a 1/8" NPT hole or you can get the JIC fitting with a tapped 1/8 NPT port. You cohice.But you want you gauge away from the water hammer source (VP44) and protected with a needle valve (suggested) or snubber.

Here is the article about air pockets and water hammer... http://www.siouxchief.com/Resource_/ProductMedia/133/Water%20Hammer%20FAQ%204-04.pdf As for the snubber fittings a lot of people buy them but since they are not adjustable gauge failure seems to still occur. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-3279/ As for the isolators I think part of the failure problem is the isolator is trying translate the water hammer pulse and it phyiscally wears out the isolator till if fails. Another form of isolator failure you won't see but have to check for is the diaphragm/piston leakage where fuel is on both side and the seperation of fuel / anti-freeze is no longer.

I'm also glad that other members dove in with both feet to your aid... I hope to keep seeing more and more of this as time goes on. Roadrunner I'm glad your back up and runinng... I would contact AirDog about the pump.Thank you Wild & Free (Bill) for your efforts...

I know there is a few of you that might use your RV's through the winter time or just in cold temperatures. Like myself I wanted to keep propane bills low as possible, save water by not having to warm the pipe up again, and just prevent freezing if used in cold temps.So I went down to the local hardware store (C & M Lumber) and picked up several lengths of foam pipe insulation for the RV. You want to look for the insulation that has adhesive on the split part also RV you want 1/2" pipe insulation. It a pretty basic install cut cut to fit, slide the foam over the pipe, pull the cover tape and stick together.Now when it comes to cutting corners it will take some practice of cutting 45* angles and getting them to fit properly.

If you miss paths... You could buy a cheap carter lift pump from Napa and use normal barbed hose fittings. This will get you going again at least...

Unknown till there is some more information like the codes...

Yeah I know what you mean... My little 8x8 Utility Trailer has 1 Ton Dodge spring pack and a 1/2 Ton Dodge Axle under it. But it still hauls home the firewood...

Sorry I'm late to the intro but I've been busy keeping the site going... So let me say "Welcome to the Family".

The difference is SGII will have a USB function soon to hook to a laptop for data logging. Also SGII has programmable gauges so you can program in like rail pressure gauge, trans temp, etc... Check it out... http://www.pureenergysystems.com/store/ScanGauge/USB.htm

Interesting... Its very simular to SAR (Search And Rescue) packs... I'm geared a bit differently but typically the ATV got most of my stuff... Then both the trucks are rigged up with basic for road travel. But with sotrms like these you should be getting you property tied down and secured the best you can and consider leaving for safety. Like Flagmanruss I'm concerned about up there in Rhode Island... Rogan over there Virgina... There are many more but all you guys, gals, family be careful and be smart... MoparMom said she would say prayers for all you out there!

Just be careful out there... This is not to be taking lightly... :nono:I'll just keep saying prayers here...

Everyone on the east coast please pay attention to your weather!

Thank you for confirming this...

Actually had already been warned by the ECM of the 2 issues... APPS code and the VP44 code... So actually it right on score.

Here is what I got on CCD networks... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/81-ccd-data-bus

Reason being is that the 98.5 to 02 Dodges tend to use a offset voltage for boost reading so it skews the SG or UG reading. JLandry is right you should consider a actual gauge for boost, fuel and pyrometer. Now on the CR engines the SG shows correct boost and rail pressure values...

How about this... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=221

From what I heard when you return the smarty back to stock you loose the speed calibration. But this is here-say...