Mopar1973Man

Here is the best I can do for the moment... (2nd Gen information) But it should be simular setup... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/81-ccd-data-bus

At least on my truck the rotor slips off the hub. Pull the caliper and caliper frame then just slide the rotor off the studs.Because the hub and bearing are seperate from the rotor... Since I don't know what year I'm dealing with I really can't be for sure...

I would be getting a test gauge on there...All the times I've seen this kind of thing happening where the low-pressure light is flickering at an idle more times out of ten the sensor is showing true, and the oil pressure is, in fact, low after testing with and test gauge. Usually excessive bearing clearances and the oil pump just can't keep up any longer...

No. Just reached down grabbed it slide in back tugged quite a bit on the hose to break it free... But no removal of other parts to do it.

Strangely enough the only tools I use is either standard pliers or channel locks...

I'm still use the same factory spring type hose clamps... I've never bothered to change them out to the newer style worm gear. Changed hoses twice already and keep re-using the same factory clamps.A ot of people are shocked that I've kept them...

Well if it leaking coolant I would get a coolant system testing and pressurize the system cold and wait. Then in a little time the leak will show up and you'll be able to see it.As for the heater you might have to reverse flush it out.

I return home... Tired... But a 46 year old male is safely heading home without injury. What had happen is that pair of hikers camped out at Kirkwood Ranch on the Snake River. Took off together to head out to Suicide Ridge and the male hiker desided he going to take a different trail back to camp. The female hiker which was older didn't follow she return to camp. By evening he did return back. So SAR's was called out. I left the house this morning at 6am MDT (no I did set my clock! :banghead:)But I made it to Riggins, ID on time but no one was there. So my buddy James called dispatch and our IC commander told use to meet him at Cow Creek Saddle. So we left town and got to Lucile, ID and rode the ATV's up to Cow Creek Saddle not knowing if the road is passible with truck and trailer. Cold and Dark we get our orders to head for Kirkwood Ranch. http://maps.google.com/maps?saddr=45.534912,-116.309338&daddr=45.568931,+-116.498766&hl=en&sll=45.53858,-116.360235&sspn=0.04569,0.110807&geocode=FcDOtgIdpkIR-Q%3BFaNTtwIdsl4O-Q&mra=ls&t=h&z=13 Well we meet up with the other officer in Kirkwood Ranch and was given more information on the hiker. So now we got dispatch to follow the trail backward that he would of taken to see if we can find him coming out. So after hiking for over 4 hours in steep country by about 11:30am they got a air ship to fly the canyon and found the hiker approx. 1 mile from where we where on the ridge heading his direction. But what was odd when he start running out of water instead of hiking down towards the river he kept hiking up. The found him up near the snow line dehydrated. So we all head back to Kirkwood Ranch to regroup and head for home. At this time a snow storm had blown in. I'm in the bottom of a canyon and looking up the trail I've got to ride out of and it nearly a white out. So I pour the coals to the ATV with James on the back and beat feet up the steep trail. When we hit the ridge top we were being hit with sleet, hail, and snow all at once and blowing hard. Now losing visiablity with a near white out condition. But keep plugging along the trail slowly. Manage to get back to IC commander and its blow snow sideways. We passed a fuel can around filled up and packed and left Cow Creek Saddle. Working our way down to the Salmon River (Lucile, ID) I was coated in snow... My glasses fogging and freezing with ice hard to see but kept going. About half way down it warmed up enough to turn to rain and WHEW! Now I can see and beat feet for the truck! So here I am... I'm home... I helped in searching for a lost hiker that is returning home safely. I'm tired and very sore...

I got a call this evening for Search and Rescue for a lost hiker... So I'll be gone gang don't give the staff to much crap...

I got crazy and bought the cheapest joints off of RockAuto.Com... (No joke!)

The only thing I can think of that would reduce compression numbers would be... [*]fuel washing the cylinders down from bad injector(s) [*]Dusting the engine (washable filter used like a K&N) [*]Poor lubrication (wrong oil, fuel dulition, poor filtration)

Quick and to the point... Pressure fall is typically fuel restriction... (Filter, plumbing, fitting, etc)

Not to side track but you need to wash the salt off... :duh:I don't run air bags... I've never found a reason to run them yet... I rarely sit down even on the overloads...

It would be best to get a actually inch pound bar rated for that span. Like I've got a simple Harbor Frieght 1/4" drive inch pound bar for that reason. What you'll find out is that trying to use a torque at the very low end of the measurement its very difficult to feel the click. I tried this with my 3/8" driver and nearly impossible to feel it.DAP has been really good with prices for me... But shop around you never know when someone else might have a blow out sale...

Well the simple fact is after installing and priming the fuel system your going to have air in the system (stumble) it best to go out and drive it for several miles to work the air out. Like a injector job I did a few weeks ago. I clean the injector drove it for a few miles ran great idled smooth. But next morning rough and missy. High idle for a few second to see I could clear it... Nope... But after it was driven it was fine again. Owner never had any issues with it since... So air bubbles may be a bit tricky to get out...

I agree... Diesel are not designed to be free rev'ed... I work mine for hours towing, hauling or just driving at 1,500- 2,000 RPM typically. Got to remember all the parts in a diesel are much heavier and are not designed for high R's (at least in stock form).

This is a good one for ISX to answer...

In 10 years of owning my Cummins I've only seen the WIF light once... I use to check and drain the water seperator all the time but now I only check it at oil change time... Might find 1/4 ounce a water every 10K miles... But I'm really picky of the the places I purchase fuel from and also get to know the fuel station owner really well. I find out what filters he's using on the pumps, is he re-addizing the fuel (winterizied), how often he changes filters etc. Water is very low priorty compared to lubricity... You got to remember Dorkweed here is the man that started the 2 cycle oil craze... I'm the one that backed him up and kicked it home...

Actually I suggest against mixing products! DieselKleen is a solvent based injector cleaner and cetane booster. Then 2 cycle oil is a lubricant and cetane reducer. So you just neturalizing out the 2 products and coming out empty handed. Power Service Diesel Kleen scored very poorly in the HFRR test at 575 HFRR (only +60 gain). But 2 cycle oil socre really good at 474 HFRR (+162 Gain). Now take a sample of the PowerService and leave it out exposed to the air for a few day and tell me what you get? Do the same with 2 cycle oil and compare. The results will shock you!

Here's your smiley...

The only things that seem to fail... [*]Front speed sensors [*]Rear Speed sensor [*]Antilock Brake Computer So if the front speed sensors fail then the speedometer typically will work fine but requires both to be replace at once. If the rear speed sensor is bad you get a wonky speedometer that may or may not work. If the computer fails typically the ABS pump motor runs continueous...

Enuf Said!

Speed sensor going bad most likely... Here is more information on diagnosing this problem. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/23-brake-system/29-antilock-braking-system-abs If the speedometer is working properly then it most likely the front speed sensors going bad.

I've also got the extreme heat here in Idaho. Riggins, ID can reach 110-120*F in the summer time. But now toss in the extreme cold of heading towards New Meadows, ID and seeing -25*F... As for the Optimas the down fall is the loss of electrolyte from the cells once they dry out they are done. This is a down fall to any sealed / maintenance free batteries. Like my lawn tractor has so called sealed maintenance free battery. I peeled the label off that said "Maintenance Free" and under it was plastic plugs. Carefully I managed to lift all 6 plugs out to find the electrolyte level was down where you could see the top of the plates which explained way the batter was weak. So now adding distilled water to it and charged it back up for 24 hours on a 2 amp charge and she good as new again. Heck even my house batteries lasted 15 years... (Good ol' maintenance batteries are wonderful!)

Got you covered with a video and a article... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/27-hvac-heating-ventalation-and-air-conditioning/57-air-conditioning-evaporator-core-heater-core-replacement http-~~-//youtu.be/ghDbhJDBvkc