Mopar1973Man

Don't tell me you just free rev'ed it... That doesn't work. How fast are you traveling with your foot to the floor?In my vid this is up to 75 MPH @ WOT. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=grl72Up-8T0 As for the code... Double check the small wire to the relays. But fi they are good then the relay is bad just replace it.

Before throwing parts test it first...Pull the alternator and have it bench tested.Pull the batteries have them load tested.Check the alternator fuse for a crack. Yes these fuse can and will crack which will cause random open circuits or in your case a random dimming.Your right I would take a DVM and load check each circuit to find any draws that are excessive.

Yeah... Like me though I'm really close to weight rating of my LR D's ST Tires aired up at 65 PSI so it wouldn't be wise to push my luck...

You're getting really wet and muddy up there... Wow now that I could really read the article with a fresh mind... It's a mess up north and it explains why the the traffic down here on 95 has been light...

Dang... :duh:It tough to live in Idaho isn't it...

High cetane = Faster burn, early ignition, higher cylinder pressures, lower BTU's Low cetane = Slow burn, later ignition, lower cylinder pressures, higher BTU's (Better for MPG value) From the ASTM testing labs... Hence the knock cetane boosters produces where 2 cycle oil a cetane reducer doesn't do that.

Ok lets start with basics... [*]Is there any error code present? (Use a OBDII error code reader) [*]How is your fuel pressure? (At idle and WOT @ highway speeds) As for the error codes just because the light not on doesn't mean there isn't any error codes. As for fuel pressure you need to know both values because testing at idle might pass with flying colors but fail miserable at WOT at highway speed. This is really common.

If you wanted to confirm the valve and head condition then I would do a compression test to verify if there is any problems. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/144-compression-testing

I think the key to it is not to operate the tire outside its designed limits and the tire will not blow out. [*]Proper Tire Pressure [*]Operate below the speed rating [*]Don't overload the tire weigh capacity

No problems here... I know with the research of local fuels I do not need to add anything more to the fuel...

Well thank you to the help of Relentless 70 today... He came up and gave me a big hand moving furniture out in the shop and getting all the carpet pulled up and out to the dump. Boy I'll tell you all the carpet was soaking wet yet. So wet that when we threw it on the trailer it was running water all over the place. Then Relentless70's brother came up with a killer idea to prevent this from happening again. Since all the carpet is pulled up and the concrete is exposed... We are going to cut a groove in the floor about 4-5 inches wide then lay in a perforated drain field pipe and stub it out the fondation of the house. Plan on putting 2 pipes in to hopefully keep this from happening again!I'll grab some pics of the house in the morning... I'm a bit tired...(Ummm... You guys need to tone down just a bit on the and ...)

Hang on a second... First off are you setting the VP44 to TDC or BDC? TDC BDC Second off lets stick with american measurements here not metric... 0.010 intake and 0.020 exhaust... 0.010 inch = 0.254 mm 0.020 inch = 0.508 mm

Well the rain that was suippose to come last night didn't show up at all... :woot:Things are still drying out... Now I got to get a hold of Relentless70 and see if I can horse trade with him... I need a second able body to help move furnature around and start yanking up carpet. Messy wet and heavy job...

Kind of like my AirDog 150 with twin filters and then having the stock filter too... Triple filter fuel... I know its clean...

I can use that kind of money to repair the guest house... (Carpeting, drywall, molding, etc.)

Here is what happened...

Mother Nature is going to pour the coals to the weather for tommorow. --- Update to the previous post... Guest house is a loss... Its flooded out 1" deep with water... My neighbor down the road has a mudslide for a driveway now... It's getting ugly with the runoff the creek is now getting muddy and plugging the culvert head for the river... So it might run over the top of the highway soon. Please say a few prayers for us in Idaho... --- Update to the previous post... I spent the better part of the morning with a shop vacuum and a rug shampooer trying to suck up as much water as possible. I know the carpet is a loss... But might as a well protect everything else. Then the culvert that our creek run back through was starting to plug up this morning so battling the pressure of the water I managed to stab the shovel in a few times and break part of the jam up. Then took a ride up the mountain checked on the irriagation system the dam is starting to fill up with debris and rocks. But there is absolutely nothing I can do till the high water stops.

Ummm... The ditch where it plugged up is on State Ground... Wouldn't matter to him... --- Update to the previous post... Wow! Finally I'm back on the air again... I lost power at 6:08am this morning from a tree that fell through the power line about 8 miles from home. Power was restored at about 2:00pm... I'm very thankful for my power system. Still had lights, water, etc... No problems here just no phone or internet... --- Update to the previous post... It still raining... And now the ground water level is now high enough that its flooding out the guest house. I walked in the guest house and found the water leaking up through the floor. Just like it was back in the 1996/1997 Idaho flood. I'm going up to a friends house in the morning to get a sump pump and see if I can dig a hole deep enough near the building that I can keep the water level down low enough to keep out of the building. But I think the carpet is a loss now...

I'm 99% sure that how all them do it (VE, P7100, VP44)... More pressure = more duration of spray.CR has the ability to command length by signaling the injectors. But also the rail pressure is a factor.

Other than what he's posted... That article should go through the testing of the wiring...

Crank sensor tells the tach how fast the engine is spining, also tells the PCM to start charging because the engine is turning, etc...Just change the sensor...

Any kind of cetane boost is bad... The higher the cetane level the lower the BTU's become so the lower the MPG's become... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/67-diesel-fuel-cetane-rating-and-the-effects

I gave up years ago... That's all it seem like I'm doing... Giving it to someone else...

No... It got a block out plate in there...

Well gang... Tales of living in the country. Coming back from McCall, ID and past my neighbors place and notices a new runoff. That don't belong there. So I got home toss everything on the counter and hopped on the ATV and bailed up the mountain. With all the spring runoff the creek that supplies the irrigational dam is running high. The neighbor pulls water out above me and hasn't been paying attention much to his ditch. So with the high running water it pull all the debris down to a culvert and plugged it! So quick thinking using my poke stick I keep at this culvert I kept poking till I seen a whirlpool form... Gotcha! Now a bit of history the ditch was just dug out this last fall and water levels were low so now with high spring run off the ditch was washing all the debris down. The ditch has to go into a culvert and cross a feild and back to a ditch again. At the mouth of the culvert is 2 screens the first one plugged up and washed around it and then plugged up the second one. Even just 2 days ago I was up there and clean them both and went over to the neighbors house and told him to take a ride up for the next few days to keep an eye on it. It didn't happen... NOAA's forcast for us...