Mopar1973Man

MPG wise 55 MPH is best... But for climbing grade I would drop 1 gear kick the RPM's back to 2,000 and hold if you can if not the drop another gear and kick RPM's back up 2,000 RPM. Keep repeating till you control your temps. Yes it might be necessary to drop all the way down to 25-35 MPH. Follow the truckers lead... The crawl over grades sometimes as slow as 15-20 MPH... I fall right in behind and follow them along. Did you pull the radiator out and physically look at the face? This below is a instant fail!

First off... SLOW DOWN! I never tow any faster than 55-60 MPH being that 99% off all trailer tires are rated for 65 MPH so its best to stay below this speed. (Refering to your pic of the speedo at nearly 67 MPH!) As for me I got to tow over 6-7% grade lasting from 2-3 miles to 7-9 miles long. Never have problem with engine temp as long as I.... 1. Keep my speed below 60 MPH 2. Watch the pyrometer and down shift and slow down if it rises above 1,000*F. If I have to down shift again and hold again at 2K RPM's Another thing what is your radiator face look like? is it caked with engine oil and dirt? Is your fan clutch functional? Can you hear the fan lock up? It should sound like a turbo prop plane taxing to take off. Is you radiator internally plugged up? How about the thermostat? Wow! I just got back from a trip to Ontario,OR and Boise,ID and made 13 MPG on the trip. As for your heat and low mileage I would be looking at drag as being #1 hitter in your problems. Dragging brakes, wheel bearing, anything to cause drag. As for every 5 MPH you rise up from 55 MPH you killing MPG really quick because of your frontal area (wind drag) the more time you can cruise at 55 MPH the better your MPG will be. Wind drag is exponential so from 55 MPH to 65 MPH it doubles from 65 to 75 it doubles again or quadruples from 55 MPH. SLOW DOWN! As for my tires 60 PSI Front axle. 70 PSI rear axle. Trailer ar Load Range D's (65 PSI) crossing the scales at 16,000 to 17,000 pounds Gross combined weight. Typically towing EGT's is 600-800*F at 55 MPH. Towing over 6% grade at 53 MPH its 1,100*F and steady. My engine coolant rises to about 205*F and steady after the fan locks up. As for my Edge Comp is remains on 5x5... I've NEVER turn it down... But just for fun while your towing turn it completely OFF and watch your pyrometer... You'll find out it doesn't change. Anything over the far end bracket is shut down point (when the comes on!) Time to pull over and let it cool down or slow way down and walk it over the grade at speeds no greater than 25-35 MPH which I've had to do on a few nasty grades around here. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/images/members-rides/mopar1973man/2000-jayco/blackcanyon11.jpg All my RV specs... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/members-rides/17-mopar1973man/27-2000-jayco-eagle-296-fbs Oh just for fun... Some of the grades around here are really steep! My truck hauls heavy for a living...

045 should be the key number...

Exhaust braking on a automatic is no more than accelerating at 50-55 PSI of boost. Same amount of force should be applied as a braking force. I know ol' CajFlynn has a lockup controller on his 01 Dodge and had (past tense) exhaust brake on it till it wore out. So it would be a good idea to upgrad the input shaft before using exhaust brake.

Like you said Luan panelling is very thin stuff. The big problem is this grab bar has to be capable of holding weight while fastened to Luan panelling. So to keep if the ripping apart I would either increase the size of the bases or carefully open up the wall and add a full length stud. But even on the increase size the bases you'll still be pulling hard on the upper fasteners almost like you need a good size backing plate on the other side of the wall. I'll keep thinkin'

Hospitals are very expensive places to stay... :spend:I can think of better places...:hyper:So what happened?

If they are torqued properly there is absolutley no need for lock-tite. Not to mention the blue lock-tite would most likely burn away in the extreme temp of the exhaust where anti-sieze will loose its oil but the plating will remain.

Also got to remember with the A/C on you dumping all your cab heat over the top of the intercooler warming the intake air even more. I typically see better MPG with the A/C on than with it off because heat factor. It small jump but its there. My last few high marks have been down with temps at 70-80*F...

Is there vacuum up to that point? If you separate the coupler and put your finger over the connectors is there vacuum? Then I would check at the control in the dash is there vacuum there?

Make sure to use lots of anti-seize...

Personally I would ohm those wires back to the ECM and verify there is no breaks in the wires. Double check the contacts in the ECM and ECM plug too. Worst case it would the ECM failed internally. But I would still try to get that verified with DRBIII tool at a Dodge Dealer.

Sounds like a thermostat change is in order...

Look closely the red in mine is the vacuum motor near the trans hump. The yellow is the one up on the firewall.

Under the dash on the driver side near the transmission hump is the connector for the vacuum system to the HVAC case. Check and see if the connector has separated...

Well there is only 2 things it could be...* Misfiring injector* Poor Compression not capable of firing fuelHow about valve lash? :shrug:But since the injectors have been bench tested it only leave the other... :think:Anyone else have any other ideas?

Another way to verify it... After driving a distance with the pressure low measure the tire temp with your hand. The tires are hot to the touch bring the pressure up a bit more say another 5 PSI. Remember there is 1,100 pound engine up from so the weight is there and must be aware of that factor.

Common practice in the snow too. But with the tires deflated that low be very aware of your road speeds because the tire is flexing much more and will weaken if driven at highway speeds. Getting around town 25-35 MPH I don't see any problems with that.Like my truck in the winter time when there is lots of snow and ice I will drop tire pressures to about 35 all way around if I know the highway is ugly. So just be cautious with your road speed and you'll be fine.

No I was being honest... I think its slick when people find old tyme solutions for common problems. If the worked back then they should work now.

Really nice job...Your right I tend to like the old 1/2 pound marking on the Dricols over the 1 PSI marks on the EV2... But still look awesome..

I had to look this up... Not to hijack but this is the information I did find... Te300 your one smart feller... http://standeyo.com/News_Files/Food/storing_eggs.html

I doubt the turbo is the cause since at idle the engine really doesn't need it... But the fact you turn on the A/C and let out the clutch and it dies is not good. I wonder how much load the A/C is putting on the engine?

Compression check?Like JL Welding a while back had a similar miss and it turned out to be something in the cylinder either a cracked piston or a failed rings. I'm not say this is your problem but it worth looking into checking the cylinder health after 850K miles.

Dang... I should of posted this... As for the fuel pressure is sent down to the nozzle lift the pintle against the spring once the VP44 moves on to the next the pressure fades and closed against the spring. This all happens very rapidly.

The only way I know to impact EGT's is to have more drag than usual.

Prefect video of it... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aGwV9ueHcz4 1989-1993 1st Gen (VE Rotary injection pump)1994-1998 2nd Gen (P7100 Inline injection pump)1998.5-2002 2nd Gen (VP44 Rotary electronic injection pump)2003-Current 3rd and 4th Gen (Common rail injection)