Mopar1973Man

Fuse cracked did it?

Why did you change your mind?

Edge Juice has a turbo timer function that might be screwed up and holding the ignition on. Try tapping your brakes and see if it dies or double check your Edge setting. Even better yet pull the Edge loose and test again.

Check your manifold bolts I've had one come loose and pop out hit the hood and fall back into the injection lines. That little hole is enough of a leak to drop you from typical max pressure down to 8-10 PSI and very smokey.

Maybe that's why the AirDog and FASS pumps with twin filter have a prefilter / water separator before the pump. Just something else to consider when building a fuel system or your truck. More filters the better the protection.

Remember todays ATF in nothing like 1970's ATF which was just red dye hydraulic fluid. Now its got friction modifiers, anti-scorching compounds, high ash content etc... Not exactly a good thing for the engine or the fuel system.

That was most likely CajFlynn... He called here asking for Texas state members.

So it was a flame sense problem...It's odd they don't use a better material like stainless steel or something that doesn't oxide over time...:whistle:Yellow jackets, bald face hornets, etc... I really don't have much likely for them even though I'm not allergic to then but hate being stung by them too. OUCH! I normally go on the hunt looking for the starting of nest and get them dealt with pronto.

Now it explains why Dodge 1st Gens and early 2nd Gens did awesome for MPG and then as the years rolled on they got worse. Can't have a good MPG vehicle in US.

900 The CCD data bus is not operational. 920 The cluster is not receiving a vehicle speed message from the PCM. 921 The cluster is not receiving a distance pulse message from the PCM. 940 The cluster is not receiving an airbag lamp-on message from the ACM. 950 The cluster is not receiving an ABS lamp-on message from the CAB. 999 An error has been discovered. Sounds like you got a NO BUS message and lost CCD Network communication with the console. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/81-ccd-data-bus

Check this out... High MPG vehicles not allowed in the US! http://youtu.be/uBnlXGvA1Wk

Check the blue wire to the alternator it should be +12V and the green wire should be a variable ground. Now if you unhook the green wire and add a ground from the alternator to ground itself the alternator should be in full runaway overcharging. Did you check the alternator fuse?

He's in Canada... I do have the limits for the US... http://www.towingworld.com/articles/TowingLaws.htm

Public scale and find out huh... I scale out at 7,300# (3311.224 Kg) This should help. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1546&d=1301768538

As a last resort you could visit this site and ask them... http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php As for the flame sensor (flame rectification) is what is suppose to tell the control board to hold the propane going. Here is the manufacture... Maybe something might help... http://www.thetford.com/HOME/PRODUCTS/NorcoldIncRefrigerators/N641/tabid/540/Default.aspx A quick search turns up a bunch... https://www.google.com/search?q=norcold+refrigerator+flame+problems&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=ubuntu&channel=fs

I assume you talking engine oil from the vacuum pump area... http://www.fixinrams.com/id14.html

WOT = Wide Open Throttle (at highway speed)I was just wondering if the lift pump is running low pressure under load causing other issues...

Like if I wanted to I could pack up my laptop, 300w inverter into my pickup and fire up the laptop hunting for a WiFi signal in a town like McCall, ID. Park my truck on the street or parking lot and tap someone's WiFi. Now being a honest person I would just surf my web site and go on about my way. But if your criminal with a stolen credit card, looking to do illegal hacking, etc well this is the perfect place to do it. Because you now got Internet access with a non traceable IP address and nobody knows where your at. It just that the provider of Internet signal takes the fall for the illegal actions because there IP from there wireless hub is logged on what ever server. Like I know my wireless hub has about 500-750 foot range which basically over to the neighbors place too. Once again if I left my WiFi router up and running (broadcasting) even with WEP security it not truly secure as I pointed out. All I'm doing is alerting you all to the fact if it transmitted over the air by radio waves I'm sure someone can/will listen in. If you want a more secure environment I would consider wired if you can. :wink:FYI: Wired networks can travel at speeds up up to 1 Gigabit. Where most wireless are 53 Megabit and lower depending on signal strength.

Like taking a manual tranny and leaving in high gear and rolling up to a stop sign and stopping with only the brake and not pushing the clutch in.

No kidding... That was a impressive thread...

Two thing I would do.1. Pull all 6 injectors and have them pop tested. Just to double check.2. Do a compression test to check the health of the cylinders.

But then there is a member here with 1.2 million miles on his 53 block. Check out CajFlynn... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/3435-1-000-000-Miles-Yet?highlight=cajflynn

That's truly sad... :cry:Remember your still part of the family with or without a truck!

Ok typically in the DC power panel most all loads/fuses are 20 Amp so figure your max load is 60 Amps roughly in DC. That would put you with 10 AWG wire and you should be fine. But if it got that heavy battery cable on there I would use it but just clean up the ends the best as possible. I'm in the same boat to some degree. The 12V system in my RV is good that it power all the light and such fine but the life span of the batteries seem short but I know there bare over 1 year old and where replaced when I bought the trailer. My thing is I'm almost sure there is a voltage loss between the battery and panel which is creating my issues. Because as you drop loads on it the voltage falls quickly like using the slide it will pull the batteries down in the 10 volt range but when the load is gone the voltage rises back up. Kind of like a plumbing restriction (fuel pressure falls hard under load but pop back up when the load is gone).

Time to call in your warranty...