Mopar1973Man

Hot water baths always cure those 8 leggers...

I've got 2 cars parked under the tree and I use a Ultrasonic box & mothball as keeping the mice at bay..3/8" will work but you'll still see more fuel pressure drop than I do because of the limitations of the plumbing.Stock 6mm is good for 75 GPH1/2" lines are good for 570 GPHThose 2 figures are calculating 15 foot straight pipe with 15 PSI at the source and 0 PSI at the far end. As you can see the 1/2" is has the best reserve volume capacity vs. stock. So roughly speaking 3/8" should have about 247 GPH flow rate.

Between multi-fuel injection events, EGR and the short exhaust lobe of the cam the efficiency went down. I'm sorry but I have a hard time seeing anything being efficient when you polluting the cylinder air with waste gases.

HO = High Output (6 Speed Cummins)SO = Standard Output (5 Speed or Automatic)As for the beefed up comment. Most likely internal parts are beefed up for the the use of chips. But so far I've not seen any heavy duty VP44 last any longer than the typical re-man'ed pumps.

I love the temp chart and I'll qualify or it... :thumbup2:I don't think its time to put on a jacket till 0*F...

I know you all know I use my ScanGauge II for getting the most MPG's from my vehicles as in the other thread I kept going over here. So here is now the last few trips to McCall, ID now in my 2002 Dodge Cummins... http://g.co/maps/ezxhe

I've got a old Garmin GPS V which is awesome for both my Search and Rescue work and just in the truck. I'll admit the screen is tiny and only black and white but works still...

Personally I would do a drawstraw for a 150 series pumps... I'm running the old school Draw Straw I but never had any problems with it. Most will sell you the Drawstraw V series but you might fight with it at times. Then I'm using a old school AirDog short bed bracket which is killer and tuck my pump behind the transfer case and guards the filter from offroad debris.

Actually your backwards. The heater hose will break down and get soft and kink shut then the crankcase pressure will build up and blow out gaskets and crank seals. This why the PVC pipe idea came into design. Actually PVC will last a very long time as long as it out of direct sunlight. The UV rays is what breaks down the plastics.

Wow... I did know stock hitches got that cheap looking... :stuned:But I got to admit the updated hitch looks plenty strong!

Ok... Here is the low down... The fuel system on these truck is terribly weak and need upgrading just for stock use. The VP44 injection pump will typically last about 100-150K miles on average with some pushing over 300K miles. The lift pump is the killer that ruins the VP44 injection pump. As for FASS, AirDog and Raptor they are all lifetime warranty pumps and typically live very long lives without much attention. I think mine is about 5-6 years old and over 100K miles on the AirDog 150 now. My VP44 currently has 146K miles and still going. As for the injection pump I know the weakness is the fuel lubricity so I've been adding 2 cycle oil to the fuel at 128:1 ratio to help increase the lubricity (reduce the HFRR score). So if you can hold fuel pressure above 14 PSI all the time you'll extend the life of any VP44 injection pump as long as the fuel lubricity score is below 450 HFRR... Fuel Pressure http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/49-fuel-pressure-specification-for-bosch-vp44-injection-pumps 2 cycle Oil usage http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/63-adding-2-cycle-oil-to-diesel-fuel HFRR Score testing http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/68-hfrr-testing-of-common-diesel-fuel-additives

First thing I see no one was hurt.... The truck did its job and protecting you from harm! :thumb1:As for the truck it can be replaced or repaired... That's the insurance companies job to handle...

Interesting mine disappeared with the change of the first pump...

That's a factory OEM injection pump and its never been replaced! Most likely not since the pump is must likely a factory original pump. Being that usually after the factory pump is replace you'll never see another VOID sticker again. Most likely not but the factory fuel system is not enough to feed a stock truck properly anyways... Wouldn't hurt to do it but it will not fix the current problems. Only with a code reader and using the ERASE feature. Disconnecting the batteries does nothing for error codes. The ECM/PCM can self erase coes after 40 warm up cycles if the code doesn't return in the 40 warm up cycles.

The only mod on the turbo is the boost elbow that came with the Edge Comp that all. Completely stock turbo! I can hit the 35 PSI pin while towing my Jayco travel trailer easy. As for RPM's normal 1,500 to 2,500 span... Nothing crazy... AirDog 150 Fuel System Stock VP44 Injection Pump Stock HX35 Turbo With Edge Comp Boost Elbow Edge Comp (5x5 & Wire Tapped) RV275 Injectors 3" Straight Piped Exhaust BHAF That it in a nut shell... As for old Dyno run back in 2007 I made 381/831 without the RV275 Injectors. I'm guessing I right close to 400 HP... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/members-rides/17-mopar1973man/145-2002-dodge-ram-dyno-results The group I ran with... http://idahoturbodiesels.com/articles/?p=9

Stock VP44 is fine... No need for any hot rod pumps. The reason why the failure is lack of fuel pressure and you have no way of monitoring the fuel pressure as your driving. Any thing under 14 PSI is marginal. 10 PSI is the bare minimal limit. Below 10 PSI your doing damage just like running the engine on low oil pressure. You got to remember the only thing that cools and lubes the VP44 injection pump is the fuel pressure that is return to the fuel tank. So if the over flow valve is open by 14 PSI it makes sense to keep the pressure above that.So now that point out you need a updated fuel system like AirDog, FASS or Raptor.More or less take care of the weak spots first before adding any toys to the truck...

At least now you have information if the problem returns...

The guys are right the lift pump and the VP44 both took on damage. So you end up replacing both plus it seem you need to install a fuel pressure gauge as well...Welcome to the family sorry to start off on the wrong foot...

Watch the top gauge... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=grl72Up-8T0

Like most all lubricant today they are full of additive packages for enhancement like soft metals (ash) so the high ash content will leave a nice build up of white harden deposits on the injectors and pistons. Just like the old tymers telling stories of using ATF back in the 70's for injector cleaner. Sure back then the oils were very basic now today very different and much more added to them. I highly suggest you don't add it to the fuel because of the negative effects.

Might be a loose wire connection that got hot while cranking the starter. Was it in the cab or in the under the hood?

Or its a bit of a air leak in the fuel system.Or weak fuel pressure from overflow valve issue.

Get a second person and watch the cables on the axle and be sure they are working properly. I come to find out last fall my passenger side cable had rusted solid and created the same issue you have no amount of adjustment could fix it.

Is the E Brake pedal returning full into the up position?

D'Oh! Well it all depends on how deep your pockets are...