Mopar1973Man

Don't worry... I'm just...

Trick... Pull the coolant sensor (ECT) lead and allow it to trip a check engine light and Check gage light. Then rehook up the sensor then clear the codes... Weird problem with Dodge ECM/PCM combo's I see the same thing sometimes with P0500 codes I can't erase.. So doing the above will allow the tool to actual erase the code. Don't ask why its this way I don't know but I know the above trick works.

I still run the factory 190*F thermostat and no issue with coolant temp. Climbing grade I do see about 208*F but that is still very serviceable. Fan clutch is a big deal. I would make sure it locking up and pulling more air through the radiator once again it can pull air through if the face is plugged up with dirt, oil, and grime. Even CajFlynn our Million mile truck owner will tell you there is no reason to exceed 60-65 MPH while towing anywhere in the USA. He tows cross country through just about every state there is with large boats. Typically he keeps his speed down and never allow the boost to climb more that 20 PSI on any grade. If the boost has climb above that he just slows down and follows the truckers. CajFlynn's 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 with a 53 Block over 1.2 MILLION miles hauling boats. If this man can do it day in and day out no reason you can't...

Like myself...* AirDog 150 (17 PSI @ WOT and 19 PSI @ idle)* BHAF* RV275 Injectors* Edge Comp (Set to KILL 5x5)* Straight Pipe 3"* HX35 Turbo (Elbowed to 35 PSI) * Jacobs Exhaust brake Mount to the turboTowing I can max out at 1,400*F if I was to stomp to the floor. But normal every day driving I see roughly 500-700*F rolling along at 55-60 MPH. So I'm not sure what you need to upgrade it more or less relearn you driving behaviour and most of the problems are driver induced...

Nice systems from what I've seen of them but in my case the would be crushed in a short order. Here is my crushproof lighting system. Cost a fraction of the price and come with 100W not 55W...

Finally broke under $4 in Idaho Payette, ID $3.989 for diesel.But up here in New Meadows, ID its still $4.109...

A/C compressor stay on full time. Temp knob had no bearing on the A/C compressor. But it will blend heat into the air...

See I told you... So if you want to control heat (EGT's or Coolant) take your foot off the throttle and allow the truck to do it job without being rushed. Now all you got to do is catch up to my MPG marks now so far I'm averaging 13-14 MPG (towing) 22-23 MPG (empty). Something none of thought of is a boost leak... :banghead:

Dang... There isn't any buses up here in this part of Idaho so I guess I'm safe... :lmao2:As for the input shaft and flexplate I don't see the need for upgrade really. But as for the TQ converter that is what is going to take a beating. If the clutch is weak it will slip. Then you know you got to drop lockup to gear down and then hit lockup again to gain Exhaust brake function. I know the 47RE trans has a history of weak input shafts and flexplates but I don't see anything that the exhaust brake is doing more that acceleration to exhaust braking. But I'll have to bow out of this one being I'm not a auto guru...

That is a PITA... I was hoping you had a wall that you could say peel open and add a stud to. But with cabinets on one side and tub on the other just ain't happening easy. I heard of several people managing to peel open walls and adding studs for there new flatscreen TV's. Easy no... But it can be done...

MAX A/C is the only position that closes off the outside air and recirc the cabin air. All other positions use outside air. Recirc ....................... MAX A/COutside Air ................ A/C, Bi-level, Vent, Floor, DEF/Floor, DEFA/C Compressor ON .... MAX A/C, A/C, Bi-level, DEF/Floor, DEF

Your DVM accuracy is rather low on AC it appears... I went out and grabbed my 23 year old Fluke 75 DVM and re-tested on my Cummins... Rest Voltage Battery Volts AC ............. 0.001 VAC Battery Volts DC ............. 12.62 VDC Running Voltage Battery Volts AC ............. 0.011 to 0.019 VAC Battery Volts DC ............. 14.02 VDC (72*F outside temp) 0.100 Volts AC isn't a problem really... It when you see 14-28 VAC on the DVM.

Ahhh... I'm glad it worked out for you and got you fixed up quick...

The only way my RV leave the yard is hitched to my tuck and no one else's... I will not loan a RV or even my truck to some one...

Flagmanruss asked if I would be nice to post this up for him...

Normal... That's torque management in 1st and 2nd Gears but hit 3rd gear the smoke rolls and the truck sling shots out of the hole. :burnout2:Torque management is released at about 20-30 MPH.The only way to completely remove that is get a RADBox from BD and it will kill the instrument cluster but there will no longer be any torque management.

No I don't have one... But the simple solution is when you get to dusty areas turn the the HVAC over to Max A/C and close off the outside air and recirc your air. No problem. 10 years of driving dusting Idaho road I've never plugged a evaporator core.Good tip...

If you wish you can start a thread and vote for it...

Actually a shorted diode is typically what causes the TQ Conv. lock/unlock issues. Actually so far the few that I've found do not over power the fuse and blown but continue pumping roughly 14-28 VAC into the circuit but on the VDC scale its still 13.5 to 14.5 VDC. The ATS fix basically takes a floating ground created by the ECM and turns into a true ground. So now if the alternator has a shorted diode on the negative side the AC wave has a perfect path to the PCM now that grounded the APPS lead. Then the ECM no longer provides the signal to the PCM but now the APPS is doing directly. There was a reason for the ECM and PCM when not wired this way in the firs place. What I look at is the fact these truck cover 9-11 years of time then now you got to consider chopping up the wiring for this little problem? (ATS wire mod, BD filter, etc.) Ok?! Then why don't why don't we see this problem over on gasoline vehicles why don't they have to chop up wiring and add filters? Why only the Cummins Automatics? PCM's are suppose to be that exact same. Let figure out the problem not band-aid the issues. As for the heat problem might be true down south. But like up here I'm still seeing temps 45-50 then might get to 60-65*F not hot buy no means. But still find ECM, VP44 failures (with > 14 PSI), ABS issues... Now I've not had a chance to apply the alternator though yet to check some of these weird failure but I will on the next one I run into. Like you see over on CF.com there is a few people that have a rash of VP44 failures with a Airdod, FASS or Raptor pumps that has good fuel pressure its entire life. This would be a good canidate to check alternator on.

Yeah but if the alternator is the source of the ripple and now feeding it to all systems (ECM, PCM, ABS, airBag, Etc.) So filtering the PCM cures the TQ lockup issues but how about VP4 failures, ECM failin, etc... I'm figuring that some of these failures are from the AC from a shorted diode. Why is it that the rest of the problem disappear when the alternator fuse is removed? This why I'm still highly against the idea of using filters, extra grounds, etc... Because all you do is band-aid the problem but the alternator is still beating up every other electronic device on the truck. Why not fix the source of the AC noise? :shrug:Because if the diode failure happens on the negative side then AC pours through the grounds... If it happens on the positive side then some filtering might occur but still most DC electronics are not designed for AC noise.Here is a basic alternator circuit... Take notice there is 6 diodes (3 positive and 3 negative) if I should short out in either side that will be the side the AC waveform leak out on... More diodes fail the worse the problem gets. But in the DC life the gauge will continue to read 14 Volts even though the diodes are bleeding AC wave form.

Like on MoparMom's 96... The vacuum line to the cruise control was cracked but the cruise still worked for the most part but the vents would default to DEF every time I'd climb a hill. So I just finally gave up and replaced all the tubing under the hood to kill this problem. Because I was chasing the HVAC when it was the cruise control that was the cause even though it still worked. :banghead:

Busted... I forgot about that but isn't weird that both your old 99 and my 02 have kept there OE joint this long but a AAM axles have joint issues?

Something is going on if the water pump is rather new and built up that junk? Plain weird if the coolant is not all that old and now depositing junk on the water pump... Never is...

Is this it?

Dang I wish I could see what you wall looks like... What make and model of RV do you have again?