Mopar1973Man

Ok... I can confirm that will burn the carbon off for sure. Like old lawm mower engine and snowmobiles with carbon fouled plugs I use to just pull out a propane torch and burn the carbon off then re-install the plugs and fire up the engine. So the same thing should hold true.

I've been following along with this... I'm still borthered by the color of the filter housing I really do wonder if some added a batch of waste engine oil just once. It would possibly explain where the metals came from. The only other though would to drop the fuel tank and inspect the tank for more debris and that would answer the metal problem.I know ISX is the guru of 12V and you great man helping you...

Dang that is a pretty steep cut and deep... :stuned:I really do want go for a ride with you now...

Same theroy as the DPF on 4th Gen trucks... All that happen to the DPF is the pores of the media get plugged up with carbon. So now Cummins adds a extra injection event (Regen Mode) dumping fuel in during the exhaust stroke getting the EGT's above 1,000*F and burns the carbon out of the media of the DPF. Carbon will burn at about 1,000*F. At least according to Cummins Service Manual for 4th Gens...

Once you get to about +75 HP (and above) injector then the MPG are neutral again from stock so now the duration is too short and atomization is poor. I'm not saying this is the case with everyone just saying general rule here...

Supposedly on the 1st Gen's it possible to rupture a injector line with a VE pump turned up too far. I've never seen it but heard of such happening. If its true or not I'm not sure.

Local salvage yard?

I just gat back from a 3 day stay in Emmett, ID with the Jayco... Trust me pulling over 6% grades and watching the pyro hover at 1,100*F to 1,200*F for 5 miles. I'm sure mine are absolutely cooked clean.I'm glad the injectors helped out in the MPG dept...

Try RockAuto.Com... www.rockauto.com Check over in the Vendors forum for a discount code...

Basically pressure and timing that it comes down too... Because duration is a factor of injector size so larger injectors have a shorter duration with the same pressure. Of course reverse than and have a stock or smaller injector and it takes a longer duration to inject the same amount of pressure. Because the injectors open up after 4,500 PSI roughly and start injecting fuel till the pressure falls below 4,500 again. To be real about it the pressure actually goes up and down on the injectors (called chattering)...What am I saying here... :banghead:

Added to the list.

All I can do is offer up a few prayers for your family. Not much I can do from way out here in Idaho but listen and pray... Sorry for your loss... And I say a few prayers for your Mom...

ISX... Could you possibly complete this article so I can post it up on the article database. I'm sure it would be handy to some people.

Hmmm... I'm most likely going to pull that fender and and do a bit of metal work to the mounting tabs to give it some strength so it doesn't tear apart again... Might also be a stress problem with the way the fender is lined up on the body.

I'm curious how did you cut the pin for the slope?

Usually charge 1 shop hour for ECM flash... But you might have the injector test for bleed down to see if the black smoke is from a possible failed injector. Fairly common on CR engines.

Best idea is to head to a dealer and let them re-flash the ECM with up to date software then you know your good.

Doubt its a ECM... Ok now knowing its a relay system I guess you need to double check your connections on the relay and might try replacing the relay to see if the winding are damaged why its drawing more or less current and tossing the code. I highly highly doubt the ECM is the problem but a bad relay or weak connection could be. The relay systems on both AirDog and FASS are extremely safe for the ECM being the pump load is no longer place on the ECM. It just relay...

Since my RV has a TV stand build in and I just happen to have a older 13" TV I could toss in the RV. Why not I picked up a little RCA Analog to Digital Converter for the TV on my last trip and figure I'd give it a shot. Camped out in Emmett, ID I cranked up the antenna and flipped on the booster (Winegard). Hooked up the RCA D to A converter and fired up the TV. Wow! Works awesome. :woot:I found that if you flip over to menu and show the signal strength you can tune your antenna for greatest signal strength. Then go back through your channel search again and pickup any missing channels. Not bad for $50 bucks at WalMart and being in Emmett, ID and getting 8 channels... :smart:I'm going to work on getting the entertainment area and tweaked in for where ever we go... So if there is TV signal so we can watch it... If not then have the DVD player rigged up so we can enjoy either way... It's alway nice to come back home and relax...

Very interesting wood gas stove... Designed very well...

They start binding when brake fluid grows on the piston causing the binding problem. Might help with MPG's too... Sorry I wasn't around to tell you but just pull the caliper apart and clean it up. Brake clean and Scotchbrite pad will clean them up nicely...

Sorry to hear about your Aunt having problems... But I'm glad to hear your truck is doing better! One of the better ways to clean injectors... I just got back from dragging around the Jayco... I pulled two grades and seen a nice toasty 1,200*F on both... Cook'em Clean!

Ok gang... Problem solved... Not a front end issue at all it was the driver side front fender the whole time. Ever since I repaired the front fender using a few washers and a few fresh bolts I've not had a single problem or a pop since...

Thing is if he's trying to use it as a fuel its going to fail. But if he's using is as a fuel lubricant it going to do fine... The problem is no matter how much you want to cheat the fuel bill when you start mixing oil in the fuel you retard the ignition point (lower cetane). Not to mention when you increase above 5% the cSt of the fuel becomes too thick for the injectors to spray properly so a loss in MPGs is noted too. Remember diesel fuel is 1-5 cSt and 2 cycle oil can vary from 80-120 cSt... Then if the oil has too much ash in it then the great white deposits start to grow and foul the injectors and the piston. Thien if the fuel temp gets to low you take the risk of injection pump damage from trying to pump fuel that is too thick. Like I said if used for a fuel lubricant is fine but cheating the system and using for a fuel you'll take on damage.

Well I was right about the diagnosis but as for location that a bit tough... But like I was trained for Computer tech support you want to look back over any modification that the owner last did. It might provide a clue. Even I tend forget about my own advise at times... :banghead: