Mopar1973Man

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Double check you additional drivers and your BIOS setting to be sure. The only flaw I've got on my computer is I not have any suspend ablities. (S1 or S3) Its a Nvidia video card problem.

Hardware store... They should carry o-rings for plumbing applications. It might not be the absolute right o-ring but beatter than nothing. As for cheap and right you can get a box of o-rings from Harbor freight for like 5 to 7 bucks.

Two way for a task manager at least for me... 1. Go to the terminal screen and type in... top 2. Go to the application list and look for "Task Manager" This is for Ubuntu (LXDE Desktop). As for desktop it can be installed and then switch at login time...

With my old school Drawstraw I there is no screen at all but my AirDog 150 has a 100 micron prefilter before the pump. I would highly suggest you still put a filter before the pump to prevent rotor jamming from debris.

I know on Ubuntu its automatic. In the netowrk folder there will be a Windows Network icon. I'm so heavily modified now that I couldn't even explain it to you. But I know got the look and fell and the power of Windows XP but in a Linux software...Ubuntu 12.04 Desktop (LXDE) 395 MB / 3.85 GB Ram 9% This might help... http://www.liberiangeek.net/2012/05/windows-7-vs-ubuntu-12-04-how-to-enable-advanced-file-sharing/

You'll eat good...

Still check the fuel pressure... I'm really worried now that there is a inline filter and it possibly cause problems for the VP44.

Wasn't sure... But I was looking at the 02 listed in the signature so I was wonder was it a typo or a misplaced thread? Yes a 1st Gen should be a copper/brass radiator so yes you could have it rodded out and soldered up.

You on the right track. But I would highly suggest you do a Vulcan Big Line Kit and not use the facory plumbing with FASS DDRP pump it will perform better with 1/2" plumbing.

I don't know of any way to repair aluminum radiators. My first thought is to maintain the coolant properly so the pH levels never rot the aluminium and steel parts. So I would just replace the radiator because if it thin in one spot it already thin in several other spots too. If the radiator is thin and leaking I would watch the oil cooler and the heater core closely too.

Might not being the lift pump is not working properly. You might end up loosening the banjo on the VP44 for a moment and bumping the starter and watch for fuel flow. If it just dribbles then the lift pump is shot and the pressure reading are true.

Last resort trick you might try. Try pumping the clutch pedal several time rapidly and see if that helps the issue. If so you still got air in the line yet. Rapid clutch pedal pumping might work the last bit of air out.

Lift pump just die on you? http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/32-stock-lift-pumps Common failures of the stock lift pump is the plastic hub breaks in the rotor or the check ball regulator fails internally and won't pump pressure at all.

I think the problem lies in the fact there is no real way for the PCM to display true flow information in your case. Then your distances is way off from change in tires so it going to be tough to get accurate information I guess its the end of the road for the SG...

So if its not the starter then I would follow the cable route. Make sure if you have them made that all the proper wires are soldered into the terminals for you.

You mean the shield ground? The black braided cable that goes from the PCM case to the firewall? This doesn't make connection with the harness though.

Ok... Thinking out loud here.Batteries Good?Battery cables Good?Neutral Safety Switch Good?Ignition Switch Good?Starter Contacts Good?Starter Brushes Good?(Unknown) Is there a starter solenoid relay and fuse is the PDC?

Actually I don't think it will work at all because gasoline fuel injection is roughly 40-50 PSI and the diesel lift pump is only 12-15 PSI even if you did get it to work the pressure would be too much for the VP44.

Now you also know that hand math is not accurate either.

No. There is no other ground. The PCM is on the passenger side firewall and the ECM is on the driver side of the engine block. The PCM gets it ground direct from the passenger side ground cable. Then the ECM and VP44 get there ground from the driver side battery cable. As for maintaining my battery cables I never even mess with them, I never bother to clean them, I never have to put sandpaper or wire brush to them. How you might ask? I keep them coated with engine oil that's all. Remember I'm the battery king... My whole house is ran off of 24V battery system.

Slow cranking is most likely starter brushes are wiped out. http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/

First off no teflon tape and any sender fittings. Make sure the sender had good contact to the banjo bolt (metal to metal). What happens is the teflon insulates the sender from ground so the pressure gauge will show low or nothing. Teflon tape is not a good thing to possibly get into the fuel system to it would most like cause some serious issues.There is a air bubble caught in the filter housing and the drain is show fuel but the air bubble is being forced through the filter towards the VP44 so since air can be compressed the sender is still seeing zero. You should bleed the line at the VP44 by using the schrader valve or cracking the banjo fitting. Then crack 1,3,4 injector lines and crank till you see fuel spray or it starts. Then shut down tighten the injector lines and fire it up.

Realy for the lift pump is safe the current draw is small. I bet Rogan can tell you how much current in mA it takes to trigger a relay.

Already done. The PCM is direct connected to the passenger side battery terminal and has no tie to the body. No. Because most are either weak ground connections (corroded terimnals) or bad alternator diodes. I think the mechanical regulator would be way too harsh on the electronics with the pulse hi and pulse lo type charging like back in the old days there wasn't any electronics really just lights and switches. As for the relay style hook like AirDog and FASS is the best way to hook up the lift pump and keep the heavy current draw off the ECM and prevents damage. But the biggest cause of damage is AC noise that is either cause from loose alternator connection, bad alternator diodes, or bad alternator field brushes... Because technically if the batteries would hold up for ever and never need external charging the ECM and PCM would never take on damage.