Mopar1973Man

Put a set of manifold gauges on and check the hi and lo side pressures.Lo side should be about 35-40 PSI and hi side should be about 200-250 PSI.

Well other than oval shaped the last coil of the spring and shim the spring up that's it... I'm NOT using a isolator and always have solid good numbers. Yes there is fuel plumbed into the cab of my truck but now in all these years never had a leak in the cab like everyone jumps up and down about. If you use the proper material and route the line properly you'll never have a issue.

Oh that's just so wrong...

Yes sir... She drive normal and lean plumb over the passenger seat to stuff boxes. Been doing it nearly 20 years now! The inside edge of the seat is rather broke down she said. I wonder why...

I was curious if the banjo had a adjustment or just the small hole. Keep us posted on the results of that banjo I'm curious of how it works out.

Curious about your banjo snubber... Could you post a picture of it. Please!

Whoa! They nice looking but not that nice...

Here you go Rogan... http://forestry.about.com/od/chainsaws/ss/fell_tree.htm

Grease gun hose was a myth started long ago about vibration killing the senders. It not the vibration but the water hammer from the VP44 injection pump.

I guess you need to school Rogan up for tree falling.

I've had mine hang up a time or two but a swift kick the tire usually breraks it free. But $1,400 bucks for a brake job are you kidding me? It only cost me a whole $110 bucks to do my first brake job at 185K miles. The $110 bucks was the brake pads all the way around and new seal and boots for the callipers all the way around. Full rebuild the callipers replace the pads and then within that I paid a friend $40 bucks to turn all four rotors.Geez... The labor rate must high...

Steel braid is a bit fancy for a setup... Here is the setup I just installed on a truck about a week ago... Gauge, Compression fitting with ferrules, 1/8" Air Brake line rated for 600-800 PSI, Needle valve for a snubber and also a full shut off incase of leakage, and then the tapped banjo bolt to access the fuel pressure.

If its a fuel pressure gauge then use 1/8" Air Brake Line (Polyon or Simular). I just got done doing a under dash gauge install and this what I used hopefully its what your talking about...

Hasn't happened yet... The weather is way too hot and dry and too much of a safety and fire issue right now. As I type this post the valley is filling up with orange skies of fire smoke. :duh:Actually that strange under cut is done by a greenhorn that has never fell a tree that large. He was scared to death do it. But after is was all said and done I show him what he did wrong. Nothing a pair of wedges and a small sledge hammer won't fix...

I'm going to vote on speakers...

Hmmm... Since is a fluid covered area that might be a cause you might end up at least pulling both hubs and checking bearings. Then popping the diff. cover and checking the carrier bearings. Might not have play in it right now but it might show where on a cone race.

Notice I've not posted and SG pics... Like right now I'm back to 16-17 MPG for a total and been pulling trailers, climbing mountain roads, etc. This tank is going to be a low one...

You might try over at RockAuto.com...:shrug:Maybe look it up in a different year?

:duh:See stuff like that all the time up here where someone buys a little ricer car adds a bunch of cargo containers on the roof, off the hitch, etc. Then wonders why the car has crappy gas mileage, transmission is failing all the time, and barely does 55 MPH with the throttle to the floor. Here your sign...

Just upload the video to www.youtube.com and then come back here and smack the (Film Strip Icon) in the tool box and in will ask for the URL of the video. On Youtube you want the share button and copy that URL.

Feel the love...

When I reload my diff I was squeeze in a extra bit more fluid (8 oz) or so by covering the hole partial with my thumb and squeezing i that bit more. Then stuff the plug back in quickly. The I would take the truck out to a open pull out and do figure eights for at least 4-5 laps to push the oil out to the hubs. Then return home check the fluid level again typically when I tip the plug slightly I should get some weeping back out if so I'm happy. It also always me to sample the fluid and see what happen without dipping my finger.

Our mail carrier here in the valley drives a Suburu Impressa and covered over 280K miles and still going strong. She has about the same amount of boxes to stop at but like she says the Suburu she got is prefect because its a narrow enough car that she can lean over the passenger seat to stuff boxes.

What ever NAPA sells that is cheap with a grease zerk.

I'm in the same spot too with the main harness.