Mopar1973Man

Actually I don't blame the tap water at all but the pH level change which comes with extended coolant changes. Like the little red Dodge wound up with because of lack of use and low amount of miles it used. It was well over the time limit but I don't think it was over the mile limit.This is minor damage to the thermostat neck... Next one is the Cummins... But I already know it good because it done yearly with about 25K to 30K miles on it. I'll document the Cummins when I change it too. We'll compare the pics from the last few...

Understandable... Money is tight these days...

It now just about all gone...

Here you go gang... I got done with the manifold gasket job on the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 a while back and knew I needed to change coolant. The coolant was like 4 years old being I only drove the truck like 3-4K a year. So why change coolant when the truck just sits. Well here is my thermostat housing... As you'll see the housing is starting to rot away from the pH imbalance of the coolant and it attacking the metals.So needless to say I got the cooling system on the 1996 Dodge 1500 flushed out and fresh coolant and tap water back in the radiator. Call me crazy but it works fine...

Not a good sign... I would do like your saying to do and flush it out and get the fluid and filter changed out. But I'm going to assume the metalics is a aluminum...

Hang in there I know there is a few people somewhere from Indiana...

Ok... Even at that length of time the error should of self erased by 3 years... The PCM and ECM will self erase codes after 40 warm up cycles of the engine. So I figure in a month or two the old codes should been long gone if the truck was driven everyday. So now that you dumped the codes now take a ride for 5-10 miles and check the codes again.

Pretty simple...AirDog / Raptor or FASS... Those are the lifetime pumps...

VP44 is shot... P0251 - VP44 Pump Fuel Valve Feedback Circuit - Death Code http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/169-p0251-vp44-pump-fuel-valve-feedback-circuit P0237 - Map Sensor Low http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/167-p0237-map-sensor-voltage-too-low P0217 - Engine Overheat http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/162-p0217-engine-overheat-condition P1691 - VP44 calibration error - Death Code http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/230-p1691-vp44-controller-calibration-error Sorry...

Welcome to the family... As for adding pictures. Make sure you got Adobe Flash up to date on your browser. Then scroll down and click on Manage Attachments button. It will open up your file manager for the site. In the upper right corner is a Add Files button seleect the files from your computer and upload them. Then when the upload is done then you can hit Insert Inline button or leave...

Installed a no name (made in Canada) track bar already had 1 warranty claim on it but oh well... :rolleyes:Still going on this one...

That should help for the engine side of things... Yellow/White is the positive Black/White is ground

Ok... I'm going to ask for a bit more information...Fuel Pressure? Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? What is you fuel pressure at idle and at highway speed WOT?Do you you have any error codes?Check in on this and let us know...

Here is a few threads on UltraGauge... (Watch there are some just because of signatures) https://www.google.com/search?q=ultragauge&sitesearch=forum.mopar1973man.com

Actually the modern charging system is exactly the same as back then except there is a few changes. The alternator puts out much more amperage and the voltage regulator is part of the PCM now with a battery temp sensor to prevent batteries from getting gassy.But if you want to convert back to old school just got to unhook the PCM and hook up a old school regulator on the firewall to the alternator.But the reason why the amp meter was removed is because of the extreme high amperage the alternators now produce. Back in the day it was like 45-60 Amps was standard now we are up to 120 Amps and more.

That's why the truck is idling and the rubber hose is used. The hose is not going to hurt the blades but its enough to stop the fan from turning so you can check and see if the fan clutch is actually unlocking. If the fan is stuck locked it will not slow down and you'll know its time. I've found 1 fan clutch on a 92 Dodge this way and it was lock solid.

Crack sensor / Cam sensor? Not seeing RPM to tell the PCM to flip on the ground for the field.

For a extra $10 bucks... www.scangauge.com ScanGauge II has a USB cord upgrade coming... http://www.pureenergysystems.com/store/ScanGauge/USB.htm But I would lean towards this one because its does live data from the computer. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Actron-OBD-II-Autoscanner-plus-tool-for-1996-and-newer-vehicles-bilingual/_/N-25iq?itemIdentifier=897608&_requestid=39561

Codes and fuel pressure is a good starting place to double check the fuel system condition. But as for the miss at idle seem like dirty injectors possibly. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/62-injector-cleaning

Run one or the other but don't mix additives... 2 Cycle Oil tend to go against most other additives and don't mix well... 2 cycle oil is a cetane booster, BTU increaser. Where other additives are cetane increaser and BTU reducer... Take a look at the ASTM testing labs grade scale and you'll see anytime you increase cetane the BTU's are reduced. Also point of reference is unleaded gasoline is about 120K BTU's...

On cold mornings the oil inside the fan clutch is super thick and tends to act like the fan is locked but after a short distance of getting a bit of R's behind the fan clutch it will unlock. Totally normal and I even see the same thing so the first range of gears I normally hear the fan drop out and unlock.But you'll have this...

:spend:Yeah I know with the economy they way it is I know its tough... But I just can't see throwing a few hundred at a cheaper pump when you can throw just a bit more for a pump that should last.

Welcome to the family Randy...As for the power steering fluid it most likely time to be changed... Every 30K miles... If it dark colored its due...

With age comes leaks... The only thing on the drivers side of the engine is the cam cover or tappet cover or vacuum pump. http://www.fixinrams.com/id21.html

AirDog / Raptor or FASS... But I don't suggest factory mounted pump of either type because it does nothing to fix the small plumbing and no pump is designed to suck fuel than far.