Mopar1973Man

As for error codes head over here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/obd2-error-codes.htm

Check out post #13 on this thread... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php?t=1048&page=2 Mine are tucked up against the transfer case the skid plate protects the filters...

Truly sad about the study...But the fact is mine is manageable too... But the only time I worry about high EGT is climbing grades with a trailer. Then I see 1,200 to 1,400*F and done in more than once...

Man... Do you really want to see two Redneck's goofing off in a shop installing a fuel tank?

Join the club...:confused:

Very very true... J O B = Just Over Broke - So very true but here in Idaho the conditions of life are very simple and I enjoy the simple life style. But here is the kicker instead of firing up the TV and listening to the news or watch a movie I fire up the Internet and learn something new. I ask questions... I do research... I do the exact opposite that 99% of the world does...As for the global warming BS I keep reading more and more articles that Mom finds on the Internet and I sit there and laugh about it. Well I know it not funny buy I at least know the truth and the truth is is all one big corporate lie to add more taxes to the American public.Whats so funny about the global warming junk is if the CO2 was the issue then Idaho would of had some serious heat waves went the forest fires were burning. But no I remember a lot of cold day huddled in a fire truck with the heater running wishing it would rain. The amount of CO2 from a forest fire is like the amount of CO2 that California makes in 1 year... Boy the earth should of warmed up a long time ago... also the forestry would of found better ways of controlling fuels of the forest that were less likely to produce CO2 emissions... Instead of burning miles of rest to control it...I could go on and on but...

Edge displays tend to have problems with just quitting and taking out the rest of the module... Even like the SG II here on the forum is getting negative feedback now with display issues... Myself I would rather stick to the analog gauges because you can see rapid changes where a digital display doesn't show because of update lag.

Here is another global warming article... http://whatreallyhappened.com/WRHARTICLES/globalwarming.html Watch the videos...:shocked2:

The though with CAD system it would reduce the amount of rotational mass and increase MPG's But DC found out there was a very tiny increase with CAD not enough to make the systems any longer. So the simple version was just leave the axle solid and disconnect in the transfer case...

Right On! :thumbsup:

On like my 2002 the axles and driveshaft spin all the time in the front.. Its disconnected in the Transfer case. On Mom's 96 Dodge Gasser it got CAD so the axle still spin and the front driveshaft will sit idle in 2WD. Either way it wasn't very much to gain in MPG either way... I like my contant hubs because when I pull the stick back it locked no questions asked. Now on the CAD system if the vacuum is working right it might lock it might not. Then it always hangs up on unlocking. CAD was such a PITA...

1. Taz is the ambulance driver... (Seriously!) 2. The driveshaft has to come down to get the front band released. 3. The tank is completely empty. 4. I was the one with a beer and camera in my hand... I actually got a 30 minute video of us putting the truck back together and raising hell... But YouTube don't take big videos like that...:eek:

Got to remember when you pull a injector out of the hole the diesel fuel and engine oil runs down the injectors making them wet looking. But as for the tips they will always be black with just a tad of soot which is normal. But like Cmns2500 said the holes are clear and the soot isn't piled up on the tips.

I think this is year 3 with mine and I've used it in Ford's, Chevy's, Pontiac's, Dodge's, etc... So far it's bee na good all around diagnostic tool but there is some limitations I though the XGauge would over come but is seem they are taking there slow sweet time building the list for XGauges. I was asking for raw data for the MAP sensor at one time so I can build a new MAP sensor position for the Cummins truck so we would have a boost gauge but... They would never listen to my request... :eek: I might call them and ask directly...:evil:

My problem with synthetics is price and the other factor is contamination. Most of it is great stuff and works wonderful but the problem is if the fluid become contaminated by debris or water you got to change it regardless of the amount you just spent or the miles its not travelled. So far I've seen moisture in my differentials a few times now and just change the fluid when the white color comes. Travelling in thick slush and flood roads has bunch to do with it... That's fine... The older Cummins has the test ports on top for that purpose. Vibration won't mess with it at all...

And still using... I've seen a few time were I got lazy and said "screw it I add at the next stop for fuel" well watching the fuel pressure and it would start to fall from 15 down to about 12 PSI. I would stop in the next little town or wide spot add a heavy shot of 2 cycle and watch the fuel pressure slowly climb back up to 15 PSI as it mixes with the AirDog pump. So I have a good clue that I'm close to right but how far it will go without gelling I've never seen it down to -20*F now... Cmns2500 is right I don't use cetane booster or injection cleaners... This is what my 160K mile injectors look like after 4 years of 2 cycle oil at 128:1 ratio. so there is no nedd for cleaner when there clean already! http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=3&pictureid=178

Man that sucks 2 of you now with bad SGII's ... The only problem I've seen is that 1 2001 truck didn't report all the error codes... It was plain weird... But I never got it to do it again... So is it fluke... Problem with the 2001 truck I scanned??? :confused: So far mine is still working fine...

Problem with me... I go offroad quite often in the summer... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=3&pictureid=246 So now seeing all the branches and sticks the fuel filter outside the frame is a big nono to me because I would for sure wipe the out first shot with a branch. Then be walking home 35 miles... This is why I ditch the flat mount on the outside of the frame rail or even the inside. mine is tucked up against the transfer case with the skid plate protection the filters mostly. The only weak spot I got is if I back up it would be possible to stick them yet but 2 years going no problems!

explained... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/ccd/ccd.htm

That kind of like my ScanGauge II... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=3&pictureid=245 (ScanGauge II in Mom's 96 Gasser) Too bad the snesor you need don't either work properly (MAP Sensor) or the ECM doesn't have (Fuel Pressure Sensor)

Not to steal the thread... But that why you grab a beer and let you friends do it for you... (good ol' Taz to the rescue!) http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=160&stc=1&d=1262616163 Seriously... That a good idea to actually crawl in and look and learn. Even in your get a creeper and lay under the truck and look at stuff for an hour is better than not knwning at all...

LiveOak is right... you need yo be sure you fuel system is keeping the injection pump feed properly. If the system is leaking down over night and the line are full of air it might prove tough to fire up in the mornings... Stock fuel lines from the factory lift pump back are all suction line so they never leak outwards. But the sure do leak air inwards to allow the fuel line from the tank to drain back. fuel pressure gauge would verify this problem because there would be pressure and then the pump would fall. Watch at 37 seconds on the video you'll see I suck in a air pocket. At this point the test failed i had to go fix the air leak. (Loose fitting) Then I started the test over.

Keep an eye on that fuel pressure and drive lightly... also start feeding 2 cycle oil to aid it along...

No actually you get a lot of white smoke of unburnt fuel. Because the common rail is always charged with fuel pressure so if there is a injector leak its sprays fuel constantly all the itime through the cycles (intake, compression, exhaust). Since this is possible if the injector is leaking during intake the boost pressure will push the fuel pash the rings and hence fuel in the oil. At close to 30,000 PSI 3rd gen injectors don't hold up very well at times. I've heard of tips breaking, pintles galling up and seizeing open, bodies cracking up the shank of them, etc. Here I know this is 24V VP44 injectors but notice the top of the injector is still poking out of the head. They never truely go all the way in... Hence why the injectors got a o-ring on it. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158&stc=1&d=1262614547 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159&stc=1&d=1262614733 Now the only difference between both injectors is that the 3rd gen's are electronic fired over pressure fired. Now looking back at yester-year and seeing what a VE pump maxed out at was 17,550 PSI and popped at 3,500 PSI on the injectors. We've come a long ways and we are just pushing the limits of the parts...

Yeah lets see the write up! :confused: