Mopar1973Man

Wild & free is right there is a vacuum line for disengage and one for engage... Also I think there is a electrical connector on the CAD unit to show the engage light...

I agree with Wild & Free...

Sorry he currently doesn't have a web site as of yet... But... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/member.php/10029-thracing Here the vendor listing... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/dealers/dealers.htm

Thanks... That's what I'm after really... I've been through all the forum like CF.com and other and been beat down with all the race nuts quoting that line out of Blue Chips site... But what I realized there is 2 class of truck owners... 1. High performance / Racing/ Dyno Queen / Sled Puller2. Daily driver & Grocery getter.I found that there is way to much hype for the performance crowd and very little out there for the common Joe that drives to work and back home every day. Might drag a trailer on the weekends but basically the truck is light duty. Like myself my truck see a bit more than light duty and I skid logs, haul firewood, tow trailers full of firewood, etc. So getting back to the the BC comment is that has there been any kind of testing in this type of driving? (I can bet not!)So I think what we need to do is keep track of the fuel additives, fuel pump (names), fuel pressure, and lifespan of the VP44 and I bet you find there is a different amount of failure compared to the performance site are saying... :whistle:I know ol' JL Welding would jump on this signing the blues...:rolleyes:Another good question...."How do you get the most out of your VP44 lifespan?"

Got you covered... Talk to THRacing... He's a vendor in Canada that sells FASS products...

Little rough around the edge but... The point is valid... We all know the Vp44 injection pump runs without a lift pump. How many times do we tell people to install a fuel pressure gauge to find out they report 5 PSI down to 0 PSI. This far to common to see... Typically the owner changes the lift pump quickly with another stock pump hoping to fix it. But typically the pump starts spitting codes out like P0216 and others... The point here is at what pressure do you get the most life from a VP44? None of use are worried about the minimum pressure that creates MAX horsepower... Very few of us here even go out racing. But is the whole Blue Chip article there is nothing said about maximum lifespan, testing in regards to lifespan, extended dyno testing for lifespan. Just nothing...

I'd be so ashamed I could never go back out on the internet... But Since i'm not the one... I'm not worried...

I just had the same thing happn for a alternator... I order a alternator for a Jeep Wagoneer and the the alternator I got was a Pontiac they phyiscally looked the same but the mounting points were different. So hang in there I'm sure they will get it sorted out for ya...

Well it looks very easy to deal with compared to looking at the 4WD version. I'm just worried about 620K miles of dirt and rust holding it in...

Sorry to say it going to be a dealer only part... It shouldn't be too bad... (Hoping)

This is truely a nice thing to see where everyone dove in and help him... As for the grid heaters they are located at the base of the intake tube going into the manifold there is a heavy gauge wire there... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1082-Grid-heater-temp

Here is a tidbit of HP/TQ curves for the 12V... Simple method of explaining HP and TQ... HP is how fast you can make it to the wall. TQ is how far your going to take the wall with you...

That's up to you... But I'm going to crawl into bed with my stuff up beak... Sure sucks to catch a cold...

Geez... After all that I've been through with you... Geez... Your breaking my heart here... I see how I rate... The pump test was more important that the phone call... It's all good... You guys just keep piling on the problems and making me think even harder...:shocked2:

http://www.vulcanperformance.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=bhaf Holy C__p! I got mine at $39.99... But still a good price compare to locally at $85

Now hold the K&N filter up to the light if you see light passing through it time to send it back to the part store... (99% of them are like this)These light holes are prefect holes to let dirt and dust pass through... Personally I won't touch them...

Ok... Then you covered your bases and the SG II is still at fault...

Well just playing I've seen a few time at 0.00 MPG displayed and watch the Today's MPG and the Total MPG fall like rocks off a cliff... :shocked2:

Like a few article I've read that a dirt filter can actually filter better than a clean one... But this is without distorting the filter or blowing it out...Like with the BHAF... That you can visually see sitting under the hood and can use the filter minder to monitor filter life. As with the stock filter housing its poor at best. Even with a new filter I found you need to grease the rubber seal to keep dirt and dust from leaking though... Why? Because over time the engine heat would allow the plastic box to distort and the seal would be compromised. So to fix this problem just put a bead of grease all the way around the rubber lip...Myself since I drive more dirt than paved roads it was best to switch to a BHAF...

With the fuel pressure gauge present try and keep the pressure up as much as possible... You might want to add a dose of 2 cycle oil, biodiesel or similar to protect the Vp44 during low pressure moments...

I know a lot of daily driver guys that don't do much more that drive it and add fuel work work awesome for them so the idea is valid...Another crazy way... Funny but true if you are really cheap and don't have time for any of the above... Can of WD40 does wonders too...

Did you try it in another vehicle to rule out the problem is your truck?

Just to be a wise arse...I just spin my filter on dry and bump the starter... AD 150 is nice because I don't have to mess with stock filter for a very long time... I kept my stock filter for the fuel heater and WIF sensor. Personally I'm not to fond of the stock filter system because its a great trap spot for air bubbles...

Valid idea... But comes up short though... Everytime you use jumper cables your eatting holes in the shellac and opening up fo new corrosion. So you would have to remember to coat the terminals again... The idea of the terminal coating in the spray can is basically colored grease. Around here jump cable are used a lot bailing people out.