Mopar1973Man

Very controversial video clips... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rI1wj0a99PI

Corrosion??? I know the Edge EZ is under the hood... Maybe you might see if it will make it into the cab...

LOL! OMG! That tiny hole... (Magnified x12) http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=548&d=1265209366 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=547&d=1265209337 Now give you an idea how small that hole is he's talking about you can take a single straind of copper wire from a 16 AWG cable and it will barely pass. 14 AWG straind won't... Now figure out at 5 PSI how much fuel flows though that tiny hole. NOT MUCH! So how could this even be considered a good cooling flow? That bleed hole was design for priming the system and passing air. Air will pass through a small hole easy where fuel will slow down considerably. Now looking at the overflow hole at 14+ PSI now you pumping fuel and cooling... But that tiny hole... Sorry I'm going to hold to Dodge/Cummins/Bosch standards personally... Being that I lost my first pump at 8 PSI of fuel pressure. Then on top of that if you preform the volume testing of the lift pump according to the TSB if the lift pump volume test fails at 8 PSI... (Dodge/Cummins TSB) http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2003/14-002-03.htm As for my testing of 8 Psi I did it 10 times and all 10 times I came up short in the volume requirement at 8 PSI... (Pic attached) http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=549&d=1265210510 As for dyno test and quarter mile testing of pumps... That short life testing... Still there is nothing from any re-build shop that can prove 100K, 200K or even 500K with 5 PSI of pressure... Remember we are common folk that drive long distances not race a quarter mile and load up on a trailer and go home. Like myself is 70-100 miles just to go grocery shopping... Or 100 miles for a load of firewood climbing a 7-10% for 15 miles... I need a pump to last a long time... I can careless about max HP/TQ at what fuel pressure... I've got difference requirements...

The adjustment part is opening up the injector and changing the shim trhis will change the pop pressure.

Here is my write up of my install and doing my SBC... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/sbc/sbc.htm

Just make new threads and send me a PM of the post link. Then I convert it to HTML and add it to the site as a permanent page... I'd be glad to post up your works. Might have t ocreate a few stickies and get the 3rd Gen area boosted up... Didn't mean to hijack the thread carry on crew!

I could I use that write up over here as a static page? That really good write up and how to flush the system... Matter of fact its the same as how I do mine...

OMG...

What kind of fuel pressure do you have?

53 block issues is rather hit and miss like the 5th gear nut problem... If you treat the truck right and let it warm up before putting it to serious work and take care of the coolant when needed... Most don't even see a problem with the 53 blocks cracking. I've even seen few of them used in racing applications and still holding up just fine... But since you don't have a 53 block no worries... Just enjoy the long life of your truck...

Surprising to see how many kept the stock stereo. The dimmer lead orange should be affecting it be I guess it does in your just for some odd reason. But I would double check you connection and be sure you not shorting into other leads or gorund by chance. double check you wire color too... I seen a few time where the tracer color was hidden out of sight... You might eve nsee if you can hit that joint connector 5 and tap it there... As for the tires no problem... Just tossing 2 cents...

I've been running one of the older white faced DiPricols now for over 6 years and love it... Looks very much so like the stock gauges in the night.

That caught me off guard... I'm think Fleetguard filters... not Fleggard... THen getting the show to boot... I'm like what kind of ad is this???

No problem here so it drops from 17.5 to 16.5 PSI when the grid heater hit... The noly time the electronic is a issues is if the voltage falls below 8 Volts... I'm still in the 11-12 Volt range on my weakest voltage. My batteries are even stock orignals that are 8 years old now... No problem here now because of the anti-gel package in the fuel I tend to keep using the 2 cycle oil...

I'm also hooked up to the orange wire myself. But I don't have the highline system...(No alram in my truck...) But I'm tapped in at the stereo since the adapter hookes the aftermarket stereo to the dodge connector has the dimmer lead... It open so I used it...

Don't look at my truck then... I've got 235/85 R16 on mine... Pizza cutters solely for the MPG numbers... Larger tire do produce a few problems... 1. Rolling resistance - Increase 2. Rotational Mass - Increase Wider tires tend to always have a loss due to rolling resistance because of the increase face width contacting the highway. Then the other side of the coin wider tire typically get heavier in weight which adds to the rotational mass which requires more HP/TQ to twist. Yeah I know everyone loves the big tire appeal but if you truely after MPG's you need a smaller, narrower, lighter tires... You might even ask for a rolling resistance index and the weight of each tire and compare to smaller size...

I tend to agree...

That's just fine... Most would suggest a pre-mix coolant because it mix with distilled water already. Or you can mix it yourself with distilled water. I've been using Napa, Prestone, Peak what ever is on sale. As for flushing... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/cooling/cooling.htm

(Shaking my head) I'm going to stay out of it... :rolleyes:Take notice to one thing... The guy doing all the talking is a Injection pump specialist... Hmmm... Yeap make since start bragging about making a injection pump run at 5 PSI so you can sell more injection pumps. I stil think is a good idea to stick with specs from the factory...

I'm thankful I never really got into sports... But nice that he had fun...

No... The grid heaters are disable after a starting temperature of above 60*F in the manifold... Most block heaters will warm the IAT up to about 100-110*F... Once again that coolant passage in the manifold...

ATF as far as I know won't hurt the system if you use it... I've seen several truck localy use ATf in the power steering. I use to use it in my old 1972 dodge because ATF was cheap and it had a small leak... That goes along with brake fluid...

Went to snag it back for us... Great work there in the information...

As far as what I can find in the Factory Service Manual (Dodge, Mitchell1, and AllData) it should be power steering fluid...

Not bad... Great tool for logging information kind of like my ScanGauge II but your is a laptop data tool!... Now as for the IAT temps start with a cold engine and note the outside temp on there and then drive till it warms up then you see the IAT starts at the same temp as outside but as the coolant temp rises the IAT temp will rise too. But since you coolant is on the cold side you offset is going to be less. So taking a guess at your data logs and the data given the temp for the day was about 35*F right?