Mopar1973Man

Errr... Ummm... I know what your meaning the front line rig can't be down... At this point all I can say is try it with the broke bottom and see if you can get away with it... Just remeber that if it starts leaking exhaust you loose boost pressure.

One or two wires should give you a clue... If both that you choose have volatage above 0.2 then you know you got to chase a ground issue... No you don't need the key on either... Simple story. Buddy calls me up that his father-in-laws jeep won't start. They tried jump starting. They clean battery terminals. But everything they did it still refuse to start or show life in the vehicle. But if you check the battery voltage there was 12.7 Volts. So I started with basic +12V testing finding that power is present. But now NEG probe on the engine block and POS probe on the negative battery post. I showed 12.7 Volts!!!! :eek: I told my buddy to grab his jumper cables. He's all yelling at me that "You can't jump start it". So I used the black side clamp one on the battery NEG and the other black on the block. He's looking at me funny now... I told him go start it... Sure enough it fired right up... The Negative cable failed but the test proved it without tearing the vehicle apart chasing. :biggrin: Strang part of the failure you could take that short 18 inch cavble and hold a ohm meter to it and wiggle it and it would go back and forth 0 Ohm to infinite ohms. Here is the Dodge test... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/voltage-drop/voltage-drop.htm

Cummins 2K is right you need a code reader. But I would pull the error codes and then get a fuel pressure gauge and check the fuel pressure. Error Code Reading... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/obd2-error-codes.htm Fuel pressure... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/fuel-pressure/fuel-pressure.htm Now as for the hard starts that caused by the low fuel pressure. You tore the diaphram inside the VP44. The only choices you got now is build a small mod or replace the VP44... The mod is at the bottom of the fuel pressure page...

Hmmm... Did you check your tailight connections? :confused:

Valve Adjustment is here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/valve-adj/valve-adj.htm

Hmmm... You might fill out your signature with make, model, year of truck, mods, etc... If there is no codes for APPS sensor or VP44 then leave them be... But check the voltage signal from the APPS and make sure is smooth. You might use a tool like a ScanGauge to measure TPS (APPS) movements. I would check the crank/cam sensors since relationship of the timing/fuel is relies on these sensors. Check the plugs and connectors. Make sure you grounds are good... The master ground for the engine is hidden behind the starter. This has the ECM, and all the sensor tied to it. You should be able to put a POS probe in a ground connector of the sensors and the NEG probe to engine block and show 0.00 Volts if this rises above 0.20 Volts then you got a bad ground. As for the alternator you could pull it off the truck and have it bench tested. Make sure they test for diodes and power noise. Just a wild idea... Valve adjustment?

SnoFarmer your right lubricity has no real role in MPG game... But cetane levels do have a role. Higher the cetane level the lower the BTU content. Biodiesel tends to have a high cetane level were as petroluem diesel and 2 cycle oil have lower cetane level. Also 2 cycle oil tend to be a natural cetane reducer. As you reduce the cetane of the fuel the knock is reduced because the fuel burns slower. But excessive reduction of cetane and the MPG's start to fall. Dark green - summer fuel / Light green -winterized diesel fuel (Idaho) - Point of reference UNLEADED is 125 BTU's. But now lubricity game. If you got BioDiesel available in your area yes Bio is a better choice over petroluem ULSD. There is no need to mix 2 cycle oil with B2 or above fuels. Like here in Central Idaho no one sells BioDiesel at all. The closest BioDiesel station is about 180 miles away. But in any case the lubricity requirements for Bosch fuel systems is <400 HFRR... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=30&stc=1&d=1259268355 So in this light there is some of us on the west coast that have limited to no Biodiesel in the state. :confused:

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=29&stc=1&d=1259260573 Some needs to tell the truth here... http://canadafreepress.com/index.php/article/17187 Then look at the reader responses... http://www.canadafreepress.com/index.php/site/comments/global-warming-fraud-somebody-needs-to-go-to-jail/ Then what really happened... http://whatreallyhappened.com/WRHARTICLES/globalwarming.html [ame= [/ame]

Well thanks DW... As for my family (Mom and Myself) we don't do Thanksgiving with tuyrkey and eating. But we normally get a nice big rib eye steak and a simple salad out for dinner. But for the day we normal take off and enjoy the great outdoors. This year since the weather is up and down and rather cold at the moment and snow is on it way in soon we are going to hang here a the house and get some much needed fall cleaning done... I don't sound very traditional right now but since there only the 2 of us there is no sense in get fat and sassy... I'm already to fat now... :rolleyes2:

Well the problem is cast iron doesn't take much for abuse like using a torch or such because its so brittle. But you mighyt be able to heat it up good enough to maybe soak WD-40 or similar in there and might break it loose using a small punch or chisel... Might even get the EZ out - out of the broken bolt... :confused:

Nice rides! http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=28&d=1259254363 Man... Those were the days... I had even the 72 Power wagon like yours and still got the ol' Charger floating around... I just wish I had the money for fixing the old girl up... Right now its tucked under the huge spruce tree in the yard with atarp over the windows and ultra-sonic rat box in the back window keeping the mice out! (actually works)

Time for a Timbo APPS... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/apps/apps-replacement.html As for the Error code issues its know to do that only in the 2001 model year trucks for some reason. You should see both P-PCU and P-Done then P-ECU and P-Done... Always see 2 P done's...

Yes it is just a enlongated washer (tear drop shaped).

Hmmm... I got to admit I'm enjoying my AD 150 as well. So far 2 years and 50K miles and no problems at all. I've only changed fuel filters 1 time now. Pressure rock solid at 15-17 PSI. Just can't go wrong with a quality product like AirDog...:agree:

Right here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/kdp/kdp.htm

Actually is ran from 1989 to 2000. Then there was a few rare reports of it in 2001. I finally saw 1 report of 2002 having a KDP repair done by a dealer. (Actual pictures of the sale receipt) A - where the pin belongs. B - is the damage it will cause.

Let me help you out a second... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=cat&id=2 And... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/injectors/injectors.htm

Inside the VP44... There is a fuel temp sensor that is read by the FPCM (Fuel Pump Control Module). But that data is not delievered to any other sub system (ECM or PCM) so as far as I know of there is no way to read it. DRBIII or Cummins INSITE might be able to see it... :confused:

Pretty simple and cheap... http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Draw-Straw-II-1-2-in-draw-tube-and-1-2-in-pushlo-p/ffvpu.htm VulcanPerformance has the BigLine Kit for it...

I got to admit the Gear Vendors Unit would be the simplest method of gaining some gear. Transmission swapping is the most time consuming method being that you got to adapt everything to work properly. But when you get down to it by the time you get done modifing the truck to take a Allison trans you could of put a gear vendor on...:confused:

That why the error codes must be checked before you start buying parts... Because if it was a APPS sensor problem you would of had a P0121, P0122 or P0123 error code...

Funny part is the so far all the 2001 truck I've worked on so far did NOT have this problem so I not had a chance of studing this issue yet... I do know its a random event so far. Some truck have the problerm ans some don't.

Right on... It looks like you got that steering box changed out. Hows the new box doing now? Hopefully no leaks...

Well you could most likely change your axle gears for much less than GV unit... (2wd of course). But yeah... Once you cross the 2K mark on the tach it seem that MPG goes out the window. I'm also going to assume you MPG numbers are from the overhead console (overhead idiot).

First off let me explain the reason for high idle functions. The 24 valve Dodge Cummins trucks tend to burn must cooler because of the extra valves in the head. But in the cool winter time temp it's possible for the combustion temperatures to fail low enough to cause tar formation on the valves and cause them to stick. This in turn will bend the pushrods cause some serious damage. Dodge has a TSB bulletin to correct this problem by flashing the ECM and enabling the existing software for high idle. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=umXz_xGxank http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=P0Ah9nK3ahc http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=il7iJCKfmaE Design Reasons The reason for designing the high idle switches was to gain control over the high idle software that Cummins provided. The software works completely automatically and there is no control for the driver of the vehicle. So if the software senses that the manifold and coolant temps are cold enough it will start the proper software and start high idle. But there is several other reason people need high idle feature and need to be able to enable at temperatures above program values. Like myself I'm a volunteer with the local Fire Dept and EMS Crews so the fact my truck sits along the highway with emergency lights, hazards, head lights, etc. The alternator can't keep up so high idle is enabled. This way the exhaust temps don't fall to low and the alternator is keeping the batteries charged. Operation Cold Engine Start (Coolant <140°F - Outside Temp > 32*F) Turn on the IAT fooler and select normal high idle. Now start your engine. With in about 2 minutes the high idle should start. Once the high idle starts turn off the IAT fooler and allow the ECM to monitor the IAT temperatures. As the engine warms up to 170°F it will cancel on its own and idle normally from that point on. Cold Engine Start (Coolant <140°F - Outside Temp < 32*F) Turn on the IAT fooler and select 3 cylinder high idle. Now start your engine. With in about 2 minutes the high idle should start once it get to 1,200 PRM's the 3 cylinder mode with begin. Once the high idle starts turn off the IAT fooler and allow the ECM to monitor the IAT temperatures. As the engine warms up to 170°F it will cancel on its own and idle normally from that point on. Warm Engine Start (Coolant 140°F-170°F) You can start the high software with a warm engine. At this point you need to use both the ECT fooler and IAT fooler. Select the proper high idle mode for your weather conditions as in cold start procedure. Once the high idle starts turn off the IAT & ECT foolers and allow the ECM to monitor both ECT & IAT temperatures. As the engine warms up to 170°F it will cancel on its own and idle normally from that point on. Forced High Idle Turn on both ECT fooler and IAT fooler have it set for normal high idle. Start the engine and allow the high idle to start. Once the high idle starts turn off the IAT fooler but leave the ECT fooler on. This will allow a forced high idle that never ends. To cancel it just turn off the ECT fooler and it will cancel. WARNING: In this mode of operation the ECT sensor is completely disabled. There is no way of monitoring engine temperatures. Becareful and alert to changes in the engine at this point. If you have a exhaust brake DO NOT activate it in this mode. Enhanced Warm Up If you have a exhaust brake you can use it will both 3 cylinder high idle and normal high idle. But be sure to turn off the ECT fooler when the high idle begins this will allow for normal cancellation. This will push the EGT temps up to about 800-850°F and warm the engine rapidly in under 10 minutes you should have 170°F of coolant temperature. Other Notes and Warnings... [*] DISCLAIMER: I'm NOT responsible for any damages to your vehicle from using this information. [*]WARNING: Do not activate any of the IAT or ECT foolers while driving the vehicle this will have a direct impact on performance and may case serve engine damages. Alway be sure that all foolers are turned off before moving the vehicle. [*]Once the high idle cycle has completed during this key cycle it is not possible to re-start high idle a second time on that key cycle. You must shut down the engine and restart to force a second high run. Now if you cancelled manually by tapping the throttle you can resume the high idle again by turning on the IAT and/or ECT foolers. [*]3 Cylinder high idle is going to sound rather weird like the engine is falling apart this is totally normal. This mode of operation skips or shuts down 3 cylinders from getting a injection pulse. These 3 dead cylinders produce a load on the engine and cause it to warm up rapidly. [*]Even with both IAT and ECT foolers off the high idle software can start normally if the conditions require it as posted in the TSB by Dodge.