Mopar1973Man

http://base0.googlehosted.com/base_media?q=FroogleCatalog_CNETI57320.jpg&size=4&dhm=fd144017&hl=en Like here on my desk I got laptop that Mom loves to use but it piggy backed off my computer. My computer is bridged the both cards (Vista 64) but serving out to a older XP Win laptop. The problem is to keep the network alive you got to keep all machines downstream up and running constantly or the network fails. So with a workgroup switch then each and every computer has its own feed and not relying on downstream computers to feed it. Ok... I'm going to assume a few thing and use my own network as a example. DSL 192.168.254.254 - Gateway & DNS Address 255.255.255.0 - Subnet Mask So this means that 192.168.254.x is you network address. ALL computers must have a IP address start with these 3 numbers. The last number x is the address of the computer. So this give you 255 connection on your network... Master - 192.168.254.1 --- Laptop 192.168.254.4 (Piggy backed from Master) Mom - 192.168.254.2 Shop - 192.168.254.3 --- Bench 192.168.254.5 (Port for customer computers) So now your allowed to plug in as many workgroup switches as needed. Like I could pull the line from master and put into a 4 port workgroup switch and split the signal. This is the correct way but like you and me we don't have lots of money at times... But basically you need to verify you computer name are all different. Make sure all machine are working in the same network address (depends on subnet mask). But like my example of my computer the first 3 number are network address and 4th is computer address. Here is my setup with a built in router/workgroup switch. (thumbnails)

On a quick search of the web I found that its is obsoloeted as far as I can find...http://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/24-valve-engine-transmission-1998-5-2002/176296-1999-24v-fuel-heater-element.html The fuel heater element is melted and burnt outon my 1999 2500 24V, I went to Cummins and Dodge dealers to by a replacement. Cummins part #3898281S, Chrysler part # 4883052. Both Cummins and Dodge dealers listed the part number, but stated it is obsolete and not available. The Filter Head assembly, Fleet Guard part #FS19528 / FS19598, was also stated by Cummins and Dodge dealers to be obsolete and not available. In issue 54 of TDR, page 22 under 12v Engines, there is an article on the replacement of the fuel heater element, however the head assembly is different. It appears that the heater element is available for the 12v engine, why is the heater element for the 24v obsolete and unavailable. Where can I purchase a replacement fuel heater element my 1999 2500 24V ?. But like Geno's sells the 12V series (Fleetguard) yet...:confused: http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=3907766S

Here is update to this... http://www.larouchepac.com/node/12520 Gore Flees in Panic from Chicago Book Signing November 25, 2009 (LPAC)—Not since Henry Kissinger fled a team of LaRouche organizers, in the back of a delivery truck in New York City's Central Park in the early 1980s, has an obese fascist moved so fast to escape an angry crowd, as Al Gore did today in Chicago. Appearing at a bookstore in the downtown Loop, Gore was confronted by a team of demonstrators from a grass roots group called "We Are Change," as he was signing his latest fascist screed on the global warming swindle. Gore bolted from the bookstore, raced down an alley, jumped into a waiting car, and tried to speed off, with protesters chasing after him and banging on the car. Midwest LYM organizers, who were also on the scene to confront the global warming swindler, provided an eyewitness account of Fat Albert's flight of fear. Make no mistake about it. This little encounter is typical of the kinds of things going on all over the country, as the fascists who brought you the near-destruction of the United States and an onrushing global Dark Age, are no longer walking the streets, smug in the belief that they are literally getting away with murder. The mass strike dynamic is playing out in thousands of ways, every day, and the recent revelations about the "smoking gun" emails from the East Anglia University global warming propaganda center, have made Al Gore's life a little more miserable. As Percy Shelley wrote in "The Mask of Anarchy," "We are many, they are few."

Well hell that no biggy then... I would just dive into it and put the manifold on with a fresh gasket and call it good for now. A small exhaust leak on a gasser isn't a biggy... Annoying more that a hurt.

Errr... Ummm... I know what your meaning the front line rig can't be down... At this point all I can say is try it with the broke bottom and see if you can get away with it... Just remeber that if it starts leaking exhaust you loose boost pressure.

One or two wires should give you a clue... If both that you choose have volatage above 0.2 then you know you got to chase a ground issue... No you don't need the key on either... Simple story. Buddy calls me up that his father-in-laws jeep won't start. They tried jump starting. They clean battery terminals. But everything they did it still refuse to start or show life in the vehicle. But if you check the battery voltage there was 12.7 Volts. So I started with basic +12V testing finding that power is present. But now NEG probe on the engine block and POS probe on the negative battery post. I showed 12.7 Volts!!!! :eek: I told my buddy to grab his jumper cables. He's all yelling at me that "You can't jump start it". So I used the black side clamp one on the battery NEG and the other black on the block. He's looking at me funny now... I told him go start it... Sure enough it fired right up... The Negative cable failed but the test proved it without tearing the vehicle apart chasing. :biggrin: Strang part of the failure you could take that short 18 inch cavble and hold a ohm meter to it and wiggle it and it would go back and forth 0 Ohm to infinite ohms. Here is the Dodge test... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/voltage-drop/voltage-drop.htm

Cummins 2K is right you need a code reader. But I would pull the error codes and then get a fuel pressure gauge and check the fuel pressure. Error Code Reading... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/obd2-error-codes.htm Fuel pressure... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/fuel-pressure/fuel-pressure.htm Now as for the hard starts that caused by the low fuel pressure. You tore the diaphram inside the VP44. The only choices you got now is build a small mod or replace the VP44... The mod is at the bottom of the fuel pressure page...

Hmmm... Did you check your tailight connections? :confused:

Valve Adjustment is here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/valve-adj/valve-adj.htm

Hmmm... You might fill out your signature with make, model, year of truck, mods, etc... If there is no codes for APPS sensor or VP44 then leave them be... But check the voltage signal from the APPS and make sure is smooth. You might use a tool like a ScanGauge to measure TPS (APPS) movements. I would check the crank/cam sensors since relationship of the timing/fuel is relies on these sensors. Check the plugs and connectors. Make sure you grounds are good... The master ground for the engine is hidden behind the starter. This has the ECM, and all the sensor tied to it. You should be able to put a POS probe in a ground connector of the sensors and the NEG probe to engine block and show 0.00 Volts if this rises above 0.20 Volts then you got a bad ground. As for the alternator you could pull it off the truck and have it bench tested. Make sure they test for diodes and power noise. Just a wild idea... Valve adjustment?

SnoFarmer your right lubricity has no real role in MPG game... But cetane levels do have a role. Higher the cetane level the lower the BTU content. Biodiesel tends to have a high cetane level were as petroluem diesel and 2 cycle oil have lower cetane level. Also 2 cycle oil tend to be a natural cetane reducer. As you reduce the cetane of the fuel the knock is reduced because the fuel burns slower. But excessive reduction of cetane and the MPG's start to fall. Dark green - summer fuel / Light green -winterized diesel fuel (Idaho) - Point of reference UNLEADED is 125 BTU's. But now lubricity game. If you got BioDiesel available in your area yes Bio is a better choice over petroluem ULSD. There is no need to mix 2 cycle oil with B2 or above fuels. Like here in Central Idaho no one sells BioDiesel at all. The closest BioDiesel station is about 180 miles away. But in any case the lubricity requirements for Bosch fuel systems is <400 HFRR... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=30&stc=1&d=1259268355 So in this light there is some of us on the west coast that have limited to no Biodiesel in the state. :confused:

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=29&stc=1&d=1259260573 Some needs to tell the truth here... http://canadafreepress.com/index.php/article/17187 Then look at the reader responses... http://www.canadafreepress.com/index.php/site/comments/global-warming-fraud-somebody-needs-to-go-to-jail/ Then what really happened... http://whatreallyhappened.com/WRHARTICLES/globalwarming.html [ame= [/ame]

Well thanks DW... As for my family (Mom and Myself) we don't do Thanksgiving with tuyrkey and eating. But we normally get a nice big rib eye steak and a simple salad out for dinner. But for the day we normal take off and enjoy the great outdoors. This year since the weather is up and down and rather cold at the moment and snow is on it way in soon we are going to hang here a the house and get some much needed fall cleaning done... I don't sound very traditional right now but since there only the 2 of us there is no sense in get fat and sassy... I'm already to fat now... :rolleyes2:

Well the problem is cast iron doesn't take much for abuse like using a torch or such because its so brittle. But you mighyt be able to heat it up good enough to maybe soak WD-40 or similar in there and might break it loose using a small punch or chisel... Might even get the EZ out - out of the broken bolt... :confused:

Nice rides! http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=28&d=1259254363 Man... Those were the days... I had even the 72 Power wagon like yours and still got the ol' Charger floating around... I just wish I had the money for fixing the old girl up... Right now its tucked under the huge spruce tree in the yard with atarp over the windows and ultra-sonic rat box in the back window keeping the mice out! (actually works)

Time for a Timbo APPS... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/apps/apps-replacement.html As for the Error code issues its know to do that only in the 2001 model year trucks for some reason. You should see both P-PCU and P-Done then P-ECU and P-Done... Always see 2 P done's...

Yes it is just a enlongated washer (tear drop shaped).

Hmmm... I got to admit I'm enjoying my AD 150 as well. So far 2 years and 50K miles and no problems at all. I've only changed fuel filters 1 time now. Pressure rock solid at 15-17 PSI. Just can't go wrong with a quality product like AirDog...:agree:

Right here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/kdp/kdp.htm

Actually is ran from 1989 to 2000. Then there was a few rare reports of it in 2001. I finally saw 1 report of 2002 having a KDP repair done by a dealer. (Actual pictures of the sale receipt) A - where the pin belongs. B - is the damage it will cause.

Let me help you out a second... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=cat&id=2 And... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/injectors/injectors.htm

Inside the VP44... There is a fuel temp sensor that is read by the FPCM (Fuel Pump Control Module). But that data is not delievered to any other sub system (ECM or PCM) so as far as I know of there is no way to read it. DRBIII or Cummins INSITE might be able to see it... :confused:

Pretty simple and cheap... http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Draw-Straw-II-1-2-in-draw-tube-and-1-2-in-pushlo-p/ffvpu.htm VulcanPerformance has the BigLine Kit for it...

I got to admit the Gear Vendors Unit would be the simplest method of gaining some gear. Transmission swapping is the most time consuming method being that you got to adapt everything to work properly. But when you get down to it by the time you get done modifing the truck to take a Allison trans you could of put a gear vendor on...:confused:

That why the error codes must be checked before you start buying parts... Because if it was a APPS sensor problem you would of had a P0121, P0122 or P0123 error code...