Mopar1973Man

Here you go... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/gauges/gauges.htm

If you lucky to find a set that you can pull out with out being brittle or broken from an accident... :confused:

Yeap... Just use all the stock stuff... Like the rubber grommet and the filter minder from the stock box... :thumbsup

I had one on my 72 Dodge but it fell off one day bouncing around the woods...I just use the block heater that is is supplied...

Well if the wiring is there you can hook up to it but there is a few things missing...1. The inserts in the bumper are different. You would need the proper inserts for the stock lights.2. The headlight switch is different. You would need to pick up one out of a bone yard.3. Also most likely the fog lamp relay isn't present in the PDC box under the hood...So once you got this stuff you would have a stock set of lights... :thumbsup

As for clearing you out... You got more that 0 post so you don't qualify... LOL But as for the steering box I would of said to rebuild it yourself. The seal kits are rather cheaper and easy to do yourself if you want to go there. No as for the sloppyness that is most likely the sector adjustment on the top of the gear box. There is a stud with a jam nut on it. You want to screw the stud inwards till it bottoms out then back it off slightly. Don't force it.This might help... As for the steering box replacement if you got the money I would be will to give it a try since its a variable box it might be really nice uprade ot the stock one... :thumbsup Who knows??? :confused:

Hmmm... How about a FSM book? :D LOL http://pdftown.com/Dodge-Ram-2001-Service-Manual.html Page 685 (Adobe) or 8O-10 (8 Letter "O") in the FSM... :thumbsup

Another cause I heard off was a bad alternator... If the diode(s) fail it creates noise in the power system of the truck and for some reason creates this problem. You might test the alternator and see if there is a problem.I'll check around and see if I can find some more ideas...

Ok... What's your fuel pressure like? Do you even have a fuel pressure gauge? Here is another way of testing fuel pressure/volume... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/lift-pump-diag/lift-pump-diag.htm Have you changed your fuel filter? Usually all performance problems start out with a poor lift pump or weak fuel pressure...

Welcome to the site... Hmmm... Ok... Now what conditions does it whine the most and least? Highway speeds? Heavy boost? Etc... :confused: It might help if you fill out your signature with the information about you truck so others can help out... :smart ucp.php?i=profile&mode=signature

From what I've found and read up on is that there is 2 blend doors in the HVAC system. So now you need to figure out which side is not functional. Then its a matter of replacement of the motor or checking to be surew the blend door isn't jammed or broken. BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR DESCRIPTION The blend door actuators are reversible, 12-volt Direct Current (DC), servo motors. Models with the single zone heater and air conditioner system have a single blend door, which is controlled by a single blend door actuator. Models with the optional dual zone front heater and air conditioner system have dual blend doors, which are controlled by two blend door actuators. The single zone blend door actuator is located on the driver side end of the HVAC housing, close to the dash panel. In the dual zone system, the same blend door actuator used for the single zone system becomes the driver side blend door actuator, and is mechanically connected to only the driver side blend door. In the dual zone system, a second separate blend door actuator is also located on the top of the HVAC housing and is mechanically connected to only the passenger side blend door. The blend door actuators are interchangeable with each other, as well as with the actuators for the mode door, defrost door and the recirculation door. Each actuator is contained within an identical black molded plastic housing with an integral wire connector receptacle. Integral mounting tabs allow the actuator to be secured with three screws to the HVAC housing. Each actuator also has an identical output shaft with splines that connects it to the linkage that drives the proper door. The blend door actuators do not require mechanical indexing to the blend door linkage, as they are electronically calibrated by the heater-A/C control module. The blend door actuators cannot be adjusted or repaired and, if damaged or faulty, they must be replaced. OPERATION Each blend door actuator is connected to the A/Cheater control through the vehicle electrical system by a dedicated two-wire lead and connector from the HVAC wire harness. The blend door actuator can move the blend-air door in two directions. When the A/C-heater control pulls the voltage on one side of the motor connection high and the other connection low, the blend-air door will move in one direction. When the A/C-heater control reverses the polarity of the voltage to the motor, the blend-air door moves in the opposite direction. When the A/C-heater control makes the voltage to both connections high or both connections low, the blend-air door stops and will not move. The motor connections also provide a feedback signal to the A/C-heater control. This feedback signal allows the A/C-heater control to monitor the operation and relative positions of the blend door actuator and the blend-air door. The A/C-heater control learns the blend door stop positions during the calibration procedure and will store a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) for any problems it detects in the blend door actuator circuits. The blend door actuator can be diagnosed using a DRBIIIt scan tool. Refer to Body Diagnostic Procedures for more information. The blend door actuators cannot be adjusted or repaired and, if damaged or faulty, they must be replaced.

Check your fuse and relay...

Hmmmm... I've got commentions to a vinyl cutter and I can cut out anything you might want... :rolleyes Kind of like my custom windshield banner... Just like my signature... ;)

VP44 pumps... Yes this is true... a SO VP44 pump on HO engine is fine. But you CANNOT put a HO VP44 pump on a SO engine.

Do some hunting around and even call some dealers... Like when Mom's 96 Dodge gave up the PCM (Gasser) I was getting some high quotes for a PCM like $500-$600 but I found 1 dealer that sold a Mopar Performance PCM for $350 buck brand new! So I got a HP/TQ upgrade for less money than a Stock PCM! :thumbsup So don't give up on it keep searching there are good deals out there JL!

Well I've ran Linux for awhile but the fact there is no compatible software dorve me nuts...Currently running Windows Vista 64 Bit and tuned WITHOUT the junk totally shaved down system. Whoops every XP machine I've got here... > The thing about vista is that everyone leaves all the junk run. If you turn it all off and tune it a pick up a few drivers from the manufacture of the device it runs so much faster than the junk MS drivers (generic) that are supplied. I've been running Vista now for 2 years and hate XP because its such a dinosaur. The fact the 64 bit software runs twice the amount of data per clock cycle. If you running 32 bit edition I can see what your whining about.I might not have a hot rod Dodge Cummins but I know I can whoop some serious tail with my Computer... LOL 5.2 GHz Dual Core AMD (Cool & Quiet Technology)4 GB P6400 DDR 2 MemoryMounted on Asus M3A Motherboard (AMD Chipset)1 TB of Hard Drives (250 GB, 250 GB, and 500 GB)NVidia 8500 VideoWindows Vista 64-Bit Edition (Ultimate)IE7 (64-Bit Edition) - Faster that legacy 32 bit broswers including Firefox...Protected by Nortons 2008 Internet Security (Plus) DSL Firewall custom tuned!

Should work??? :confused: You would have to ask the Dealer about it first ot verify they can flash it. Make sure you don't install it till you get to the dealer...

Like you I'm completely torn about either answer... I don't like getting into either setup. But somewhere there is a problem.

After opening up the tank and seeing how the fill tube connects to the tank... You really don't need a locking cap. There is no way to push a hose into the tank deep enough to get all the fuel out. They might get a few gallons but that's it... I'll dig up a pic later on...

The stock A-pillar is left in place and the tubes and wires and in-between then stock and the aftermarket. I found it easy to route the tubes and wires by pulling the dash bezel and removing the headlight switch you can reach in and grab them then and route downward towards the floor. Then you can route out the firewall. I tend to stick solely to the manufacture listed dealers then I know for sure I get a quality product with a warranty and it not a cheap imotation of the actual product. I know a lot of you are good at getting good deals from Ebay...

I think its the ECM that controls the idle more so... Basically the ECM watches the Crankshaft sensor or Camshaft sensor for speed (RPM) and then dictates if the governor should put more fuel to it or not to keep idle up.Now I know that the VP44 can run without a ECM present but it does require a special Cummins box to feed a signal to the VP44. There is 2 modes of operation on the box idle and high idle. that's it...When I got time later I'll dig up the wiring diagram of the VP44 and you can see the input it takes... ;)

As a matter of fact I'm going to be yanking out my DirectTV soon. Like right now the only thing I turn it on for is the music (Top 40). Beyond that there isn't anything on there I like to watch. Well there is one thing but it snot worth it... Chinese Anime movies (English dubbed). :thumbsup I started collecting them off the internet... ;)

His punshment that the good "Lord" gives to him will be just... :mad

Autometer should have it... http://www.autometer.com/cat_mountsdeta ... dl=62&gw=1

Like myself if I drive with the right frame of mind I can hit some good and high MPG numbers. But in other cases like yesterday driving to Station #2 which is 4 miles up a steep dirt road it tends to kill my MPG down to about 12-14 MPG for the day... ` Dorkweed I see you use the same method of figuring out a tailgater... If some is so close I can no longer see you headlights this is my method of removal...1. First attempt I'm polite. I'll flip on and off my backup lights as a warning.2. Second attempt I'll just lay down on the hammer putting out just a mild to moderate haze.3. Third attempt I'll slow down just a bit trip the smoke switch and lay down the hammer... Blacking out the highway.Most people take the first warning... Women usually get the hint by 2nd try... Some pricks just don't get a clue... :rolleyes