Mopar1973Man

Not an excuse but bad timing. I know you guys will be going next spring for your next trip.

Yup. I see the same thing near any larger cities. But back near home things are more controlled vs near cities. One few reason I prefer to be home than out and about traveling near cities for any reason. Just like up around McCall / Donnelly area is nuts. Everyone is in hurry for something driving excessively fast and driving reckless.

You can order all the parts from Jon as a kit and have the local shop install all the parts.

3 weeks?! To rebuild your tranny Wow! Even my NV4500 was only 1 week with ordering parts and Jason working on the weekends.

That's the crazy part I've seen big name transmission shops make a mess out of just a simple rebuild. It happens. There are members that have had stalling issues from poor or too tight of torque converter, bad valve bodies, etc.

You mention the key right there "oversized tires"... I've never ran oversized tires hence I've never had death wobble on any of my personal vehicles. This comes from the amount of rotational mass and then thing get out of balance just a little and then the axle start to wobble and jump. Just need the right kind of bump in the road to get death wobble started. Don't get me wrong I've driven plenty of customer trucks and felt the death wobble experience. The easy way to get of the death wobble is go right back to stock sized tires (31 inch) and the problem is gone. There are other factors like you pointed out like shocks, steering damper, good tire balance (zero if possible), good front springs, and the front axle isn't over loaded with a heavy winch bumper. The biggest thing is to understand the front end geometry and build the front axle up properly. Most don't so death wobble is rather easily found later.

Ummm... In 436k miles I've never had death wobble. Still all factory OE design front end.

Should hold 100% across the cruise range without any rise.

Canbus should not be ramp from the defensive zone to max. Not a efficient fuel map either. You should have zone of 100% fuel where you normal cruise. This way your not just in a power fuel mode all the time.

EGTs of different modes. 6 CYL high idle 300 to 350 3 CYL high idle 600 6 CYL high idle and exhaust brake 650 3 CYL high idle and exhaust brake 900

Man what a crappy design for a Ford. More plastic parts and poorly designed setup. I had a job from an old lady she had no ignition key control because the pin in the plastic rod fell out. The part was cheap at $16 dollars but installing was not fun. That rod in my fingers goes inside that square hole.

Any part store carries the replacement oil cap. I've got a start oil cap and it does not have the ratchet cap.

Timbo APPS is the best solution for apps sensor.

I'm set for 30 second delay and set for 140F warm up temp. Come winter time I disable the Quadzilla and go back to my own high idle system because 3 CYL and an exhaust brake is even faster.

Yeah I get it. When you get caught up let us know.

Pretty simple. When your ready pull the steering box return and route to waste container. Now turn the wheel lock to lock it will self pump the fluid through. It does help to have the front axle off the ground.

When I last talked to him he was dealing with COVID. So I'm being patient for him to get caught up.

Dark material could be band or clutch material. Still in all I would still give Jon a call.

Much less issues with... Track bar Ball joints Tie rod ends Drag link Steering box Power steering pump Brakes Wheel bearings Wheel joints The list is long.

Me personally I would never bother to buy anything new in the current times. Prices are high as heck. Just the monthly payment will be like a house loan. It was bad enough back in 2002 when I bought my truck new for $32k or so. I had a fairly large monthly payment. Today I would buy a used truck that was in fair condition and rebuild what I would have to and keep going. Like Thor (2006 Dodge) its purchase as a abandon vehicle and I've been repairing as needed and using for my shop truck.

I don't have the shut down chirp but I have a power chirp. about every 50k to 60k the belt will chirp while under power. But looking at the new vs old belt the pulleys more or less burn the grooves out and gets too wide and no longer grips the pulley. But totally silent on shut down never makes any noise.

Talk to @Dynamic about this hes a excellent transmission rebuilder. He can set you up for parts and info just as much.

Nope. I just stayed home and did nothing but house cleaning and packing for the work week.

0. Stock ECM 1. Valet mode 2. Stock fuel with timing 3. CANBus Fuel and timing 4 and up splits up the wire tap levels. Like I'm set for 7 levels Amount of wire tap. 4. 25% 5. 50% 6. 75% 7. 100% Data logging can occur on any level. No clues for pumps being it only shows what the ECM is commanding not what the actual timing is. Even when my last VP44 failed it showed normal timing even though the timing was stuck full advanced and P0216 code.

Yeah when I did the math on his other tires his final ratio was 3.38:1. Being an Auto Trans is 0.68 in top gear that dropped him way too low in the RPM's at highway speeds. @Sycostang67What is your RPM at 65 MPH? Most likely I'm figuring that its going to be like 1,900 roughly?