Mopar1973Man

Galled or seized timing piston will not throw any other code but a P0216 code. Which yours did. I've seen pumps so seized up your had to heat the case of the pump with a propane torch to get the piston freed or to even slide out.

Also really common for the timing piston to gall up and seize in place. If the is no p0251, p0252, p0253 or p0254 codes the solenoid wires are fine.

When the P0216 code is set the Quadzilla only reports commanded timing not actual. Like my last pump was stuck full advanced. Very hard knock only got 25 to 30 MPH.

Those are in sad shape. I'll let you know that brake fluid should be changed every 30k miles and that doesn't happen. After a period of time the brake fluid will absorb moisture and start to rout out the bores in the calipers and rot the seals.

Just some common bar to PSI conversions and the pop pressure spec according to Dodge Factory Service Manual. 1 bar = 14.5038 PSI 293 bar (minimum allowed) = 4,250 PSI 300 bar = 4,351 PSI 305 bar = 4,423 PSI 310 bar (stock OE injectors) = 4,500 PSI 320 bar = 4,641 PSI 327 bar (maximum allowed) = 4,750 PSI Being I opted for custom pop pressure being it takes just a bit more time for the VP44 to reach the pop pressure this makes my timing slightly off and retarded. I'm fine with that being I can fully adjust my timing to what I need to get the most from the injectors. As most found out 28 MPG is not impossible with 150 HP injectors. This custom 320 bar pop pressure I make up on the Quadzilla tuner. Another thing to remember its not uncommon for a injector to settle some after being built and dropping about 5 to 10 bar off its set pressure after about 20k miles. So the extra pop pressure is also buying me extended life on the injectors. The way to tell typically is watch the engine load value and the idle RPM. If the injectors are working correctly there should be a engine load between 2% to about 15% and idle at 800 +/- 10 or so. When injectors are wore out thne the idle will be >800 RPM and engine load typically will be ZERO%. This just shows the pop pressure fell out and the ECM can't defuel enough to hold an 800 RPM so it starts to high higher.

Sold them all... I will say that Timbos APPS lasted much longer than the factory OE APPS sensor which bare made about 180k on The Beast.

Even though I've got the p0122 present it still drove ok. Once in awhile it would drop out for just a second or so and pick back up. Mostly in town at 25 MPH because of light throttle needed.

I'm going beyond the normal. Typically most injector builders will pop them slightly lower than stock. Stock pop pressure is 310 bar or 4,500 PSI. Now for performance most will drop to 300 or 305 bar for better flow. I went the other direction and popped them high at 320 bar v(4,641 PSI). This made for cleaner spray pattern and better fuel economy. This is why I like @dieselautopowerfor my injectors is because I can specify a custom build and they will build to your spec. So there default pop pressure will be fine for most applications but in my case I went out on a limb to gain my high mark... 28.04 MPG on a 2002 Dodge Cummins. Was it worth it? Yup! sure was...

Too advanced in my book. Wow...

Yup. Very true. I've got 7 x 0.010 injectors custom built with VCO nozzles and popped to 320 bar. I've even tried Vulcan Performance +75HP injectors (7 x 0.0085) popped at 305 bar. I been selling DAP products for the last about 7 years. Very Very rare have I had to call DAP for warranty issues.

There are two idle validation switches. One switch when grounded it will cancel the APPS sensor and set the Cummins idle software which is set for 800 RPM. Now when the second switch is grounded the first switch is open again. Then the Cummins idle software is canceled then the ECM will follow the APPS value. 3 pins in the plug are +5V, APPS sense, and ground. Then 3 other pins are, idle, throttling and ground. Only one IVS can be active at any one time. If two are both off or on it will trip either p0222 or p0223 codes.

Simply there is no electronics on the Timbos APPS. Extremely durable, long lasting, and fully mechanical for Idle Validation Switches (IVS).

Well after about 8 years I finally wore out me first Timbos APPS. I've got a P0122 code just popped up last Thursday. Felt a few odd dead pedal periods which were short lived. I know Monday I've got to order a new one after all those miles of driving.

I get the VAT tax and distance thing... Trust me I do being most everything I need out here is still needs to be shipped here. I hope you luck on getting the new one hopefully undamaged too.

Ummm... I've got 2.9 acres and I live in the sticks. Closest Walmart in either direction is 2.5 hours away. I was smart long ago and followed my family to Idaho. I adapted to rural life very quickly. I've lived on my own for many years now. Always managed to get employment on my own. Never needed gov't assistance, never had to work for larger companies, etc.

I would hope so for $713 radiator... I can buy 5 OE radiators at $140 a piece and most likely go even farther... I've got 436k miles on my truck and only had to buy 1 radiator in the total of 19 years. Next radiator will be somewhere around 600k miles roughly and still only be $280 dollar spent on just radiators.

You'll end up rewiring everything most likely. Everything goes to the front door speakers being the amp is mounted to the speakers. So the rear door panels, and front tweeters are wired into the amps on the speakers IIRC.

Again larger tires cost fuel, rotational mass, rolling resistance, and high EGT's. Your now enjoying the efficiency I normally enjoy now. Yup. Oversized tires tend to alter the geometry of the front axle. Wandering typically stops when you ditch the wider tires. If you can crimp off the waste gate line temporarily and test again and see if you can pass that boost point. If not you might need to retard timing (-1 degree from all max timings) to add boost pressure back. Might add a bit more fuel to the wire tap from 1200 maybe try 1700 and see if the boost climbs more.

Yup hes got this on the hood... @Sycostang67 hows the new ratio working now compared to the old 3.38:1?

Truly sad no one cares enough to handle freight properly. I've seen a FedEx driver start dropping kicking computer part boxes off his truck into my yard. I told him to load it back up and return to sender. Then called FedEx and reported him. Then called my computer part supplier and had new parts sent. Then called my customer and explained the delays in building there new computer. Yeah just one bad freight handler and it had huge impacts all the way around.

Just seems extremely expensive for full aluminum radiator.

Same here. Personally I wouldn't spend big money on a full aluminum Mishimoto radiator. Just quick look your spending way too much on name brand. I just popped over to RockAuto and its 137 USD for a OE Radiator. Then if I wanted full aluminum radiator there is one on RockAuto for 311 USD. Way less the Mishimoto Radiator I seen priced as high as 700 USD.

Every time someone looks at another fuel you have to remember... Any fuel will create CO2 and CO emissions. Fuels with the least amount of emissions will most likely be lower in BTU content. Can't get lower emissions with a high BTU fuel. Just look at the ethanol fuel. Its just a mere 85,000 BTUs per gallon vs 120,000 BTU's per gallon for unleaded gasoline. Just like the more BioFuel you add to diesel it reduces the BTU content as well. Personally I say ditch the renewable fuels and biofuel go back to petroleum fuels and make the engine more efficient in design. Here is BTU content for each fuel...

Even from ASTM testing labs...

Like myself I never use... Cetane boosters - Why? local fuel can be as high as 45 to 53 cetane already. Adding more is going to reduce BTU's. Cold Flow Improvers - Why? Local fuels already up the amount Xylene (Pour Point Depressant) as high as 10% to 15%. Adding more just wipes out the lubricity. The only thing that is not improved and does not meet Bosch standards is lubricity. REMEMBER !!! US Diesel Fuel is ~520 HFRR. UK fuel is ~460 HFRR. I don't have to say anything here being Bosch did all the HFRR testing for us all and then shown the damage by the low lubricity that US diesel fuel has. Even shows in the comment "Worst Case US Lubricity" This isn't made up or snake oil it is a real problem.