Mopar1973Man

Watching... Sad to say I've got no experience with deep pans. All my truck are manuals except for Lil' Red which is 46RE and just a 5.9L gas engine.

Out here the only paved roads are the highway. Everything else is a dirt road. Now it been a long while since I had to travel back road to peoples places in the winter time. Remember last year the COVID had everything shut down. Then 5 years before that I was taking care of @MoparMomdialysis runs to Ontario, OR. This winter I might be out in the snow and ice much more. Bad enough I've got to make time to get to Param and buy my 17 inch wheels for Thor. Then I got a buddy in Riggins going to score me a good dealer on Hankook ATm's (265/70 R17) for Thor (2006 Dodge). As for The Beast I ran a lot of highway miles in the winter. I think the best thing to see is out running a lift Ford on 35 inch tires and I'm just cruising at 60 to 65 MPH with my tiny 30 inch (245/ 75 R16) tires. Snow as 9 inches deep un-plowed highway and still made a clean pass and keep on going. Yeah I was in 4WD but still this is way I love the pizza cutter better bite to the highway below. That Ford was fighting because he was floating on top of the snow and no traction. (Hankook ATm's 245/75 R16)

I need to do another myself. Everyone here KNOWS I have I've got long hair... Down at a friends place building a 500 HP Chevy. Yeah if you been around me the last couple of years you also find me wear scrub top shirts. Greatest work wear and it all washes out. No stains... Rare photo indeed... Myself on the left, Marco (Quadzilla), and then Jacob Kidd (Diesel Auto Power). Get all 3 of us together! I actually visited the Diesel Auto Power Office and met all the crew.

You all need to talk to the our site transmission man... @Dynamic He even made a beefed up 46RE for me as well. There is things in Dynamic's products that you cannot get in DTT and other rebuilders.

That's fine to disagree... I just look from a different angle.

Any error codes present? Did you check the cluster connectors in the dash? Is it the right cluster? As far as I know the 1998.5 to 2002 is always been a 3,200 RPM redline. Did you do a cluster test? Hold the trip button down and turn the ignition on, then release after the CHECK message.

Best to test the MAP plug to the ECM plug. Ohm out the wires and verify the the wire are not broke first.

Strange all the talk about wanting 2 LO on a CAD axle. In all the years I've lived in Idaho I've never really needed 2WD or 4WD LO range at all. Shoot most of the winter time I'm still in 2WD. Rare for me to even used 4WD HI. I'm not the type to bail into a muddy area blindly. I will look things over before proceeding. I look at the fact if I can do most of my travel in 2WD even offroad then I always got 4WD to free me in a bad spot. Even hauling my wood trailers and RV. Like right now I've still got my RV up at Smokey Boulder Road. I towed it in 2WD up 14 miles of dirt roads. Then I'm going to hitch up my utility trailer and head up and go wood cutting. Even hauling that trailer up some of the rough nasty road I've never needed LO range ever. Last weekend... My 2000 Jayco and my 2013 BigTex Trailer. Red Heart Icon is the camp spot from the highway...

Kind of like the 2006 vs 2002 Dodge's I've got. The 2006 I love the auto exhaust brake function. I can set my cruise and the ECM controls the exhaust brake on long downhill runs. Where the 2002 is totally manual and you have to manage speed on your own. The 2006 has 3.73 gears which I'm happy with but got to get rid of the lift kit and these 18's wheels. Good power but no where near what the 2002 Dodge will do. As for the full back seat it just a bigger junk collector than my 2002 with the Quad doors. As for the 2002 its tuned with the Quadzilla and does way better on MPG's over the 2006 Dodge. Better power, 5 speed less shifting gears, injectors are a fraction of the price. Suspension on the 2002 is way better and hauls weight better.

Nope... Never have. Matter of fact the last time I had the head off the freeze plugs are still like new and not even rusted on the inside yet. My current head gasket failed as the composite material let got and got pushed out the front causing a coolant leak.

Well as soon as I get time I'm going to... Get a set of 17 stock wheels I've got a deal for $150 in Parma, ID for wheels Get a set of 265/70 R17 tires I've got a bid in for about $1,000 for a set of Hankook ATm Take out the 2 inch lift kit in the front. (Thrust angle is wrong). Funny thing lately the tach is coming back on its own and start to function properly for short time. When I seen that I'm not much different from what the 2002 is gear wise. I'm look towards actually getting back to the stock size and take full advantage of the 3.73 gears with all the weight. Heavy front steel bumper and a heavy steel flatbed, then all the tools in the tool boxes. Biggest thing I'm fighting is my trip back and forth up Goose Creek grade (7% at 45 MPH). The other small issue is the wastegate solenoid is failing and randomly will trip a P0243 code. This is defualing and keeping me held back ot a mere 20 PSI of boost. EGT's easily cross the 1,300 to 1,400*F realm. I'm not even towing yet.

Never thought there would be any savings between free spin hub for the price.

Might be a time to create a write up of quality dealers for parts. Me personally I use... Diesel Auto Power - https://www.dieselautopower.com/ RockAuto - https://www.rockauto.com/ Vulcan Performance - http://www.vulcanperformance.com/ NAPA (McCall, ID)

@Me78569 had a VGT retro fit on his truck. Worked super good.

Just don't mount the panels to the roof of the RV. If you park the RV in the shade the solar won't work. Best to have the panels free standing and not on the roof. I've got my panels as free standing and I can chase the sun with the panels but the RV can be parked in the shade.

Most likely head curl. If you have stock head bolts the bolts will stretch and mine started coolant at the rear passenger side of the head. Make sure to have the head machined true flat again.

I've got lights too but don't even draw a full 10A for all of the lights. Look toward energy efficiency. Still in all a massive 270A alternator is going to draw down more horsepower. I'd rather reduce loads than adding bigger alternator.

Nothing being if the bulb is good should be consumed by the bulb.

As far as I know the regen will still occur but much much less... EGR is turned off and not used. No codes will be thrown.

Upgraded alternator not needed. Just need to do the W-T ground wire mod to make things right with AC noise.

I've got vacuum pump kits on the store. Easy to do and maybe an hour of work. Even got a article on how to do it.

There is lots of tiny freeze plugs in the head at the corners. Rotten freeze plugs are only caused by one thing. Bad coolant and lack of changes. To this day my freeze plugs look new and not even rusty looking inside or out at 432k miles and counting on the 2nd Gen.

Timing to too advanced.... 1500 - 13 2000 - 17 2500 - 21 3000 - 25 MAX is not what you think it is. You can control the maximum cruise timing with max. Like I typically set it down a bit lower to kick the cruise timing out by about 2,000 to 2,500 RPM so if you reduce that you can force cruise timing to cancel and jump back into the performance timing. This is a good launch timing. 13 degrees with take another retard when the low boost timing rolls in it could pull down to about 10 degree on a heavy pedal. Retard pushes more fire out towards the turbine and spools the turbo up easy. Starting at 15 degrees there isn't enough retard to spool so it now launches with low power. Quick power need a quick deep retard of timing, spool up get up on boost now switch to performance timing being above that you pull more torque around 2000 so now you get up to speed you can drop +3 degrees for cruise timing at 2k and that will be 20 degrees of cruise timing. Fuel curve is setup to be smoke free but since I got quick spool up the defuel side is just for smoke but once I'm performance timing it will continue to build to the 15 PSI and now both the CanBus and wiretap build together making some serious power. Where like most they ramp up from the bottom which now the CanBus and WireTap are at different stages of power. Best to ramp together for the most power but not from 5 PSI... Not good...

He's been through 3 steering boxes in under 100k miles. Always leaking out the output shaft. The brace takes up the beating that normally the output seal and bearing take. Once I've install that brace not heard a word from him again.

I'm more picky about brand names that I order and also picking about who I order from. Like for example I had my 1977 Ford Project up there with Neil. Several things I had to get from outside companies like Tail lights, front marker lights, side marker lights, and four bulb sockets. I've found several eBay pages and typically skip the used junk prices. Then I found a Ford Bronco site that had the tails, front and side markers. Bad part is there was two listing with or without reflector for the rears. No phone number. No way to just order the pieces I needed. I ended up reordering the rear tails from RockAuto and then found a better deal on the bulb sockets for the front and rear. Some times its better to stick with what you know than trying to get the best price.