Mopar1973Man

My buddies truck... It in the prime of its life! And it even gives me a run for my money! LOL

Yeap... This one reason I moved away from most fuel additives... But I'm shocked at the fact that Opti-lube would attack the container. 8| :wow But never the less these products are full of the common 3 chemicals.

You might check for error codes and see what happens... That might give clues...

LOL It's only 80-100 round trip to go grocery shopping... Its my daily running around locally that is killing me... I'm used to firing up and driving at least 100 miles daily. Now my truck might do 2-5 miles daily... So I make time to run it out and down the canyon good and hard to heat it up good. Like tomorrow I got to run to Council, ID and drop off some stuff... So there is about 104 miles round trip... As for the short trip that is considered under the guidelines of serve service on the maintenance. Basically when you don't get the engine up to temp completely the oil doesn't cook off the moisture and other things in the oils and lubricants... Since I built the high idle switches I tend to use it to warm up the engine more than driving the extra miles. But in ther same sense the MPG are lower from this... Can't win for losing... :confused:

Ok... With the 3rd gens... Air in the fuel (bubbles) - Might cause missing...leaky injector(s) - This will make it difficult to start sometimes...Weak lift pump pressure - Could cause a problem...The biggest problem with 3rd Gen trucks is the expensive injectors (about $2,000) and getting a good quality filter (2 micron) to protect them...

Oh My... Your engine isn't broke in till 250K miles... These engine are good for 1,000,000 (1 Million miles). I got a buddy on the site here (Taz) that has over 600K miles now and the pump turned up on his 1992 Dodge Cummins 12V. I've also got a 3,200 RPM Governor spring sitting on my desk ready to install... But as for following my path your very safe in power. It when you start really getting into power is when problems occur. But I would upgrade you fuel system before you even think of power upgrades...

I'm willing to learn from your results as well... So keep us posted... :thumbsup

I've see a few videos on YouTube with Cummins powered Monte Carlo's... [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RO_kjaxIDzc]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RO_kjaxIDzc[/ame]

Veggie oil has a few of it own problems and bonuses...Problem - Gels sooner than 2 cycle oil or even diesel.Problem - Cold oil does tend to coke up the injectors.Bonus - Better lubrication than 2 cycle oil.

As for the wastegate its rusted shut now and not opening up that is way the overboost code. So you going to have to remove the turbo and disassemble the exhaust housing and clean and inspect everything. I've got a book for this but I need to post it up in the book download page! :smart I would check for codes quickly again and see if it was just a fluke. I've seen some code readers do that like mine will pull a P0000 code once in awhile. I know that P0000 doesn't exist so I un-plug and plug back in and check the codes again. Then the true ones show up. Iseen some really weird ones... LOL 8|

Not a good idea anymore... :nono The reason being is that the ATF of the 1970's was nothing more than red dyed hydraulic fliud... Today now with ATF+3 and ATF+4 there is all kind of chemical and additives packages dumped into it. Friction modifiers, etc... These chemical packages will have a direct impact on you IP pumps, and injectors... This was the change to 2 cycle oil was developed was to give a clean lubricant without all the additive packages and un-needed things thast ATF has now... Same principal but back to clean lubricant... :thumbsup

Well that's 2 now... DorkWeed and yourself that give a big thumbs up to 2 cycle oil.. :thumbsup

P0078 - Unknown code P0216 - VP44 Timing failure (Yes this is the dreaded failure code.) P0234 - Max boost pressure exceeded. (Wastegate problem) P1693 - Companion code.... (Typical to see - Has a special meaning) Error Codes... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/obd2-error-codes.htm

Like my ol' Charger used to pull a good 18-19 MPG with a 383 CID... Now my Mom's Dodge Magnum XE I took the 4 BBL carb off and put a holley 2 BBL on and got the MPG up to 21 MPG before it got parked... Great car... ;)

Let me know how it works out... ;)

Oh... About $1,200 to $1,500 dollars worth of injection pump...

Here is the best idea I've got... http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Draw-S ... ps9804.htm Get the 1/2" line kit... ;)

Well...The imfamous P0216 error code popped... Well the VP44 is wearing out and the timing cam is sticking internally. So basically it will continue to run and function but the power and MPG will start to slide. It like driving a gas engine without timing advancement weights... Doggy... The other thing you'll start to see is the white smoke in the mornings... It gets worse... :wow

Like myself...I've got 3 vehicles to play with that are evenly matched...1976 Dodge Motorhome, 360 CID / 5.9L Gasoline V8, Gross weight 8,500 gets about 11-12 MPG (Not very areodynamic)1996 Dodge 1500 360 CID / 5.9L Gasoline V8, Gross Weight 5,500 gets about 13-14 MPG, (Better areodynamics and lighter)2002 Dodge 2500 Cummins 360 / 5.9L diesel I6, Gross weight 7,900 gets about 17-23 MPG, (Heavy but the same areodynamics as the 1996)Not even my Goldwing passed the 50 MPG mark often... LOL So I know that that site is a fake... ;)

All I would need is 3 million... 1 million to pay for my current debts...1 million to play with...1 million to start over with...Dreamin'... At least that is free... :thumbsup

Ok... Here is the draw on the batteries... WAIT TO START -> Grid heaters 190 Amps... STARTING -> Starter 500-700 Amps POST HEAT -> Grid heater could draw anothe 90-190 Amps for 3-5 minutes after running. Maybe that why I unplugged my grid heaters... LOL My weather is light enough now that I can start up on a cold morning easy without grid heaters (15*F outside is my lowest). So the only load I got is the starting of the truck. So battery recovery time is shorten a lot! ;) My typical cold start lately is about 30*F to 40*F without grid heaters. As for starting there seems to be a problem there... You might think about changing the starter contacts. They get wore out and weak and it takes even more to get it to twist on weak contacts. There really cheap. Fuel Pressure is weak though... 10 PSI is the lower limit... It the stock plumbing that is keeping the pressure low... As for starting problems you might try this too... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/voltage-drop/voltage-drop.htm

Hmmm... I think about 2 years now...

The best way I figured out how to loosen the bleeder screws...1. Spray with lubricant of some sort and let soak.2. Use a proper 6 sided socket that fits the bleeder screw.3. Hit the ratchet with a hammer to loosen.Now to prevent this form happening again is simple. When you tighten the screws just snug them. They don't require serious torquing.Make sure the rubber cover is put over the nipple of the bleeder screw...Oh you don't have one. Easy way to make some. Get some vinyl tubing that fits the bleeder screw snug. Then cut it about 1 inch long. Take a cigarrette lighter and heat one end of the tubing. Once hot a the vinyl is seriously soft take a pair of pilers and squeeze the soft vinyl tubing to close. Now you have a fresh bleeder screw boot. The reason you need then is the water gets in the screws and rusts them out from the inside. (Threads...)

No change here yet... :confused

Personally I like the twin stacks... :thumbsup Singles are easy to do just pop a hole in the floor of the bed and elbow up... LOL But I would put the extra money out and do twins... Now my problem is I never did like the idea of the plumbing in the bed I wish there was a way to plumb under the truck so you had only the pipe coming straight up in the bed. Now other considerations is the sound. The noise level will increase from what I heard. You'll have more exhaust noise and drone problems... Take a ride in someone truck with stacks to get a feel for it... ;)