Mopar1973Man

If you going to replace cables make sure to do as a pair. That way you'll have a even pull. NAPA does normally stock these cables.

There is several models of trucks with short box vs. long box, standard cab vs. quad cab, Danna 70 or Danna 80 axle. Etc.

Leveled in the front with spacers that you have to lift the rear because of the massive sag of the camper in the bed. Where the natural empty rake would be near level with just the weight of the camper. I would most likely keep the airbag because of the camper but drop the pressures way down to just help suppress the bounce of the heavy camper.

I won't suggest Moog at all. NAPA parts do work well and hold up a good average time. Like myself being a work through an account my prices on NAPA stuff is much lower in price. RockAuto is where I got my last set of ball joint I'm still running over 200k miles later.

Yup. By the time you add it all up the the price is higher on the mechanical side. Pre-filter and water separator, main filter, electric priming pump (addon), etc. Then the price goes up pretty good. If they had a kit with prefilter, water separator, and main filter with air separation, Then I would consider mechanical pumps. $621 for a just a pump. No filters, No prefilter, No water separator, no priming pump, etc. Funny part is I paid $520 for my AirDog 150, 13 years ago. Came with filters, plumbing, draw straw, electrical, etc. Each their own...

Like here on the site I sell both styles of Denso diodes. Now if you do the W-T ground wire mod and the PCM protection fuse then your all set... As for ECM and PCM rebuilders...

I'm pretty sure everything is the same. The hole in the block to the mount on the air horn. Just the dipstick and tube are different from truck to truck. 98.5 to 02 truck all hold 11 quarts. Industrial ISB engine may put the tube on the passenger side. Still the same hole size in the block.

1. Do the W-T ground wire mod then do the PCM fuse protection mod. You can keep your Denso. 2. New alternator and mods above. Will stop all these issues. 3. Best bet is to call Auto Computer Specialist in Florida. They can test, repair and reflash your ECM. Comes with a warranty which Smarty does not...

Should hook up the pyrometer so you can use the cool down timer and for data logging purpose. That would figure the boost leak too like @kzimmer said.

But you mention start at 15 PSI at idle and climb to 25 PSI... That is a 10 PSI swing.

Like I told JAG1 on the phone yesterday return to stock. He did a 2" leveling kit then using airbags to regain the rake because of the camper in the bed. If he returns to stock the natural rake will be there and the weight of the camper will self-level the truck. With ihs 2" leveling kit and the weight of the camper his truck is squatting which is where the airbag are trying to lift the tail back up so the rake or level is back. I've hauled thousand of cords of wood in my truck and know absolutely that stock front axle height with a full load in the rear will make for near level truck.

If you upgrade to 02 dipstick get both the tube and the dipstick. There the same capacity ofr oil but the tubes and dipsticks changed over the years. Plastic vs metal tube. Even the length of the dipstick is different.

Might be a good idea to do these mods...

Give you a clue. Normally I can hit 47 PSI. I pulled the wastegate hose off and left it open, then pulled 1 bolt out of the manifold. It whistles very loud but I was still hitting 43 PSI of boost. So a boost leak will not hold back boost pressure unless it super huge leak. So, with two big holes in the air system a bolt missing and wastegate hose hanging only lost 5 PSI. (HX35/40 hybrid turbo 60/60/12). Tuning has way more to do with boost. Improper timing will cause weak boost typically over advanced. Too little fuel in the CANBus fueling table will make it weak too. Running the wrong level. Like switch from wiretap level to Level 3 I can drop to a max of 35 PSI of boost.

That is because of the alternator had a short on the blue wire field lead. This will be a dead short back to the PCM which supplies the +12V. The PCM is protected by a 20A fuse and the circuit board can't hold the current flow. POOF! Magic smoke released form the circuit board. This is where the protection fuse mod comes in. This protects the PCM from current over 5A and the fuse blows not the PCM. Yeah I know you know that but the rest might not...

With a FASS or AirDog system its removed as well being its on a relay. Just triggered by the ECM milliamps worth. Like even with my AirDog 165 I idle at about 19-20 PSI only drop 2 PSI. Have been like this for over 13 years now. Yeah I've finally lost my first AirDog pump at 10 years ~200k miles. Then second one was a 3rd Gen pump barely 8k miles. Then was upgraded to 4th Gen AirDog 165 now I'm like I was back in the day. Solid. No wild 10 PSI swings just barely 1 to 3 PSI drop. Just Solid. Never see the low pressure light on the gauge... Set at 13 PSI.

As long as the 2 cycle oil is ASHLESS your fine. I've used snowmobile oils, 2 cycle boat oil, etc. The biggest thing I look at is pour point. Like good quality snowmobile oil will got to -50*F for pour point. Even WalMart SuperTech will go down to -40*F. As long as it ashless your golden. Think about it at 50:1 in gasoline is enough to protect a chainsaw at 10,000 RPM from melting down. This is why 128:1 was a good starting point for diesel application. CR engines need to go thinner at 200:1 ratio.

This is why I don't use any fuel additives, anti-gel or cetane booster. Just not needed.

Made another visit to see Mom. Saturday will be 7 days without dialysis. She is getting confused and having a tough time holding a conversation. Part of this trip is to make sure the hospital does not file for Medicaid. Because I've not owned the house over 5 years the hospital can take my home for payment. Second part is billing and case work got chewed out for calling and harassing me about discharging mom. The 4 doctors agreed for comfort care right there. So I've got to hold their feet to the coals. I've only been home barely 1 day and had the hospital driving me crazy. I need to get back home and back to work. Hard to keep running back and forth without funds. I only worked 1 day...

How many miles on the RV275s?

I don't suggest any Moog parts... No longer USA made but China. Quality has gone down. Been using NAPA stuff no issues really.

Ask @pepsi71ocean he got a set of DAP injectors 100 HP. Ran them about 28k miles and they had dropped to 280 to 290 bar IIRC. So just because they were set perfect at 310 bar they will still settle in after a break in period typically lose about 10 bar at the worse case. Another way... My 7 x 0.010 injectors were popped at 320 bar. My engine idle was a perfect 800 RPM but the engine load was higher at 13% when the injectors are new. I've got roughly 60k miles on these injectors at just about a year old or so. Now the engine load has dropped to 6% at idle. Idle speed is still correct but the engine load is dropping out and eventually the injectors will be below minimum pop. I figure right at 100k miles these will be wiped out. My stock injectors had 150k miles on them. I had them sent in to be popped and rebuilt. Fun was the stock injectors idled high at 850 to 875 RPM. Didn't have a Quad then... But the pop pressure was 260 bar. I bet for sure engine load was a ZERO.

Right from the FSM. So stock is 310 bar. The bottom end is 293 bar. Within about 20k to 40k miles you can lose up to 10 bar with everything settling. Few member here have seen this. Range of use is... Lower limit is 4,250 PSI which is equal to 293 bar. STOCK - 4,500 PSI which is equal to 310 bar. Upper limit is 4,750 PSI which is equal to 327 bar. Like my 7 x 0.010 were popped at 320 bar (+10 bar over stock). This gave a good bump in MPG and reduced smoke. Some will argue that increasing pop reduces flow some. Then it also affects timing as well making it retarded you can make that up on a Quadzilla though. Another way to check pop pressure... This method does work and found several truck with zero engine load and idle RPM above 800 RPM's. This is because the injector is opening too early and flowing too much fuel. The ECM and VP44 can't defuel any more. Hence the pop pressure is most likely below 280 bar at this point.

Yup that's why I never wanted to give up my 3" exhaust because is was super quiet and never had a EGT issue. 3 inch exhaust can support quite a bit before needing to step up to 4 inch exhaust.

Same I was making 45 PSI and still holding the gasket too. My gasket failure was rear passenger side coolant jacket. I'm going to say I over extended my coolant change a few times.