Mopar1973Man

Any thing with with modern Android version 9.0.

Just remember if the Assassin pump loses prime it will be dead where it sits. Without a electric priming pump it will not self prime and run again. The other mechanical pump can be set up with a electric priming pump but is a big mess of plumbing to make it work.

Still to this day exhaust brake is the best braking system out that reduces brake pad / shoe wear. Most all people with exhaust brake are reaching 150k to 200k miles out of brake pads/shoes.

My source is Ryan at Blue Top Steering. He informed me that after 2003 when ATF was used in the power steering system is because the old Sagnaw boxes were replaced with Ford Steering boxes. This continued since 2003 using Ford steering boxes. So this why 2003 and up is ATF and 2002 and back is power steering fluid.

That should work the duralast kit.

I missed something here. I thought it was power steering upgrade... Never mind.

Ummm... You do realize that 2003 and up Dodge trucks and Ram Trucks are FORD power steering boxes and power steering pumps?

Usually shows green is warm up mode. The turns red in run mode. But if the level is set for ZERO then it will show a black bar and the Quadzilla is turned off. Double check your setting and tune it could be push back to default tune.

Correct. The pump remains on the vacuum pump. Just the reservoir can is removed. You might ask @Blue-Top Steering if he can get them...

Yup still got the same 5 amp fuse. Haven't changed yet, and hasn't blown the fuse either. Not to mention the alternators quit burning up and working like designed.

Both the same. Power supply. The both operate in tandem again the circuit can hold the full 15 amp pump so its split out between to control transistors.

Cycle the ignition key again and reboot the mobile device and the iQuad. It should come back up typically. If not you might have to check the tune settings on the Quadzilla. Also if the battery is disconnected the level is default to ZERO. Just need to warm up completely and adjust after warm-up mode is cleared.

Your correct. There is no relays in the ECM. The power leads are split out to handle the amperage load on the circuits. Steel covers are capacitors...

I've been running AirDog 150 for 14 years now. The original pump died and was replaced with a 3rd Gen pump and failed shortly afterwards. Then now been replaced with a 4th Gen 165 GPH pump head and no problems since.

While the starter is cranking the engine it should be pulsing 12V to ZERO volts. While the engine is running it should be a solid 12V from the ECM.

Too big. It's like a 4 inch diameter o-ring. The biggest I can put my fingers on are like 1 inch.

I want a better time where I can adjust the shutter speed but yes that was full auto. As for looking toward the truck its not bad at all. As long as your head is above the cut off of the beam it easy to look at. What is sad on the 1996 with Silverstar Halogens and my Switchback LED marker lights... The LED marker lights are brighter than the head lights.

Here you go... Now that the sun came up some... 1996 Dodge in the drive way...

Its a square wave pulsing on and off. Its not a reduced voltage but a pulsing on and off 25% duty cycle square wave. Volt meter or DVM will not measure a square wave properly. You'll need a o-scope to see the pulses correctly.

The only thing I will mention is the 5.7L Hemi has had issues with rear cylinders and the con rods popping out the block. I've seen two already that have had this issue locally. One happened to be a close friend and his wife's 5.7L Hemi Durango.

Poor man you can use a normal 200 amp battery charger but you have to mind the charging amps and charging volts. I've taken a few completely dead batteries and brought them back to life and about 80% to 90% capacity again. The whole trick is bring a 12V battery up to 15.5 Volts till the amperage drops near zero. Then back down to a normal 2 to 10 Amp charge. Best to keep the caps off and mind your electrolyte levels while charging. My house inverter (solar system) provides a equalize charger too. I can just hook up to it and do a longer and slow method of equalize that works even better. Being its a 24V system I can do a equalize for 6V or 12V batteries too. It's also a 200 Amp charger as well but I've got it limited to 1 AC amp which is roughly 5 Amp at 24V. Then its set up on a timer as well.

Get a hold of me I can fix that for ya. Reservoir seal. There is a o-ring to the reservoir simple to change but hard to get the o-ring. I ask a NAPA guy to help me out he ordered the pump and gave me the seal from the pump. You don't need to pull the pump. Just remove the hoses from the back. 2 bolts and the pressure fitting and the reservoir will slide right off. Watch there is 2 square cut seals for the bolt holes.

Pffft... This ain't nothing... I'm still running 2WD most of the time. I've got about 1.5 feet roughly here. Still since 1996 I've still not chain up either truck yet even once. I've got a brand new set off snow chains with the black paint yet. Biggest secret is the 215's I'm running on the 1996 Dodge has excellent traction even in snow with 2WD. Then the 2002 is about the same the 245's are doing excellent as well but I have to turn the Quadzilla down to level 2 or Level 3 just to keep from over powering the tires. Still capable of running 2WD most of the time. Also weighed out the truck axles and remathed the tire pressures.

Correct... ECT and IAT have zero effect on fueling. ECT and IAT both in stock form control timing. Quadzilla wise the IAT is dropped and not used.

Fueling is not controlled by temperature.