Mopar1973Man

No. Single torque.Even ARP's page says if you torqued them right there is no reason for second torque. Also never do a hot torque.

Just finished up at 2:30pm today. Shifting smooth once again. None of them are. McCall, Idaho NAPA has a 7% sales tax and prices are higher. But semi local only 1.5 hour round trip. Council, Idaho NAPA again bit better prices only 6% tax. This is a 2 hour round trip. Ontario, Oregon NAPA even better prices. No sales taxes at all. Then for every 100 dollars I spend I get 5$ off the total purchase. 6 hour round trip. So I tend to wait till my dialysis cycle for parts because prices are just way better. I'm now getting some ground back. Since I got the Cummins back up I can get stuff done here at home. Eventually I need to get back to work too... Paying work...

Not sure but Module masters will test everything to see what is going on. If the circuit isn't damaged they will let you know.

Above 20 PSI you not improving anything. There return port back is too small for any more than 20 PSI. Now below this your going to be building more pressure in the VP44 casing. It very possible to blow the front shaft seal out.

My suggestion is just remove the the ABS module. You can have it sent out and rebuilt for a mere $130 by Module Master in Moscow, Idaho. https://www.google.com/search?q=module+masters https://modulemaster.com/rebuilds/shop/brakes/abs-modules/abs-kh-dodge/

Correct way...

Voltage is only used to control the IVS (Idle Validation Switches). The Timbo APPS has zero circuits and completely mechanical APPS. No electronics. The voltage has ZERO to do with transmission shift points or anything.

After doing my research Cummins or Mopar has never manufactured thermostats. Cummins has changed at least 4 to 5 times different manufacture they sell. Then digging to the manufacture of the actual thermostats you find out that Cummins used companies like Motorrad, Mr. Gasket, Robertshaw, etc. Funny how everyone claims that Cummins or Mopar Thermostat is better but NO ONE has even checked on who manufacturing said thermostat. As for specs the only spec is the temperature. Being that opening size and volume restriction has changed every time they changed companies. I've replace a few stock thermostats for people and always shocked at all the different designs... Now for my 200*F like I said was a Gates. It only lasted 1 week or so. I think I've chucked it out already.

Yes. The more metallics or ceramics in the pad causes more wear on the rotors. Absolutely... My factory OEM rotors lasted 350k miles. The Jacobs brake provided by Dodge Dealer back in 2002. If I was to purchase one today I would buy the PacBrake PRXB which I would consider the best you could get today. Just remember 99% of everything is manufacture in China or similar.

No true. Cummins does NOT manufacture any thermostats.

This accident occurred just a mere 8 miles from my place to the south. Take notice to the huge boulder its taller than my truck even.

Might double check the heater treater and the gear alignment.

Ditch that... Pull it off and throw it in the trash. BD noise filter is not going to fix the problem but mask it so the AC noise burns up your VP44 and ECM. Do the W-T ground wire mod and the PCM protection fuse mod. Problem solved! Just for personal reference. My 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 the diode pack in the alternator gave up yesterday. The trip started as normal then the TQ converter lock and unlock started. Just thought oh the common AC noise issue. I figure I could limp on that for the day and make it to Ontario and just replace the alternator. Nope... It got so bad it was pull it down into 2nd gear while rolling. I double check all fluids everything was full and no issues. I ended up limping back home 65 miles at a mere 30 to 35 MPH top speed.

No. That is the project of today. I must get the Cummins up and running. I've got the transmission hanging off the engine hoist and the bucket of Mobil 50 sitting there. Just need about 3 hours to stuff it together. The 1996 Dodge I can't find alternator in any of the part stores near me. I thought about dipping into the diodes but 186k miles the bearing have to be tired. She has been a huge help. Between Eileen's health issues and Mom's health issues it been nearly constant running back and forth to doctors appointments. I have not been able to work a paying job in weeks now.

Ordered my headlight full assembled from RetroShop. The upgrades like the D2S lens and rush shipping added to the price. Then the PIAA 530 LED Driving lights where at the time I bought mine was $349 IIRC. https://shop.retroshop.us/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=2G.RAM.RETRO http://www.piaa.com/store/p/187-LP530-3-5-LED-Driving-Light-Kit.aspx

Things just went from bad to worse... Geez... On my way to dialysis for mom and the alternator crapped out in the 1996 Dodge 1500. The AC noise got so bad the transmission was jumping from 4th to 3rd and even 2nd gear. Totally randomly. Both trucks are broke and I need to get busy installing the transmission in the 2002 Cummins. Mom is going to have to skip the appointment and I've got to work on my Cummins even feeling sick. I've been fighting a low grade fever for the last few days.

Lets say I've got fresh clear lens headlights and SilverStar halogen bulbs and they SUCK. This is my 1996 Dodge. Halogen bulbs are just a mere 860 lumens. Now as for my 2002 Cummins I've got $1,000 worth of lighting. Those light are so good I can see everything like its daylight. The PIAA LED driving lights are 4,000 lumens. The Morimoto D2S HIDs are a bit less at 3,000 lumens. There is no other way to get quality lighting. I've tried relay kits, sport headlights, etc. All junk.

Yeah I took the day off yesterday and wasn't allow to put on shoes this meant I had to stay in the house and no going to work. Not feeling to great been fighting off a mild fever. Right now I just need to make it through the day for Mom's dialysis. As for my truck I need to get the transmission installed again. Just extremely tired... Yeah JAG1 did catch me on the phone for about an hour in Ontario.

I'm bringing this back because of too much outside people constantly calling and asking what is going on... Thankfully the website is holds threads for 30 days before deleting. Too hard to deal with text message, facebook message, etc. Just tell people to read this thread. Then, I'm posting only ONCE!. Give me a bit I'll catch up here and update whats going on. I've been pushed to the wall with nothing but hospitals and ER room visits. Got home last night at 5:45pm and was dead to the world by 7:00pm. I slept till 11:30am this morning. I'm not going to work today I'm too exhausted from 3 days (Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday) driving. Not even a full month yet and at 2,837 miles... Sorry I'm going to be a bit tough to catch but I'm still alive...

Bad field lead or armature. You just saved yourself $750 dollar repair of the PCM. Auto Computer Specialist took care of my failure but it was so bad the printed circuit board burned through completely making the PCM total junk. That 5 Amp fuse saved your PCM from certain death. Thank you for confirming that...

PCM does not ground through the case. Ground is the passenger side battery.

I did the Gates 34212 on that listing thinking Gates was a good quality T stat. Mine failed the in the first week. Went back to Napa... Haven't tried again since. Money is tight and time is even tighter.

If the protection fuse is blowing out its the blue wire to the field lead is either shorted to ground internally in the alternator or in the wiring. This is NOT a PCM ground issue. It a +12V feed issue from the PCM to the alternator and is drawing excessively on the field wiring. So if it was me iif you replaced the fuse and unplugged the alternator field lead and the fuse does not blow then the wiring is fine. The alternator is shorting out and need to be replaced.

I've been a Android person for years. So far I've used... LG G3 LG G4 LG G5 Aspen Tablet The only one I seen a problem with is the Aspen tablet it was far to old of a Android software which couldn't paint the screen properly. Currently the LG G5 works fairly good. I'm bluetoothed to a stereo, can make phone calls and voice controlled texting, and run the Quadzilla. Now as for Sumsung Android phone there is a few software issues I remember but not sure if they where fixed yet or not. iPhone seem to have issues I'm just not sure why and don't own one to understand...

I would have to say mounting location makes a huge difference. My AirDog 150 is mounted behind the transfer case. The coldest I've ran was -40*F and never gelled once. I do not use any anti-gel products either and have no fuel heater in the AirDog. Now another truck I installed a FASS 150 for a gent and install as FASS suggested location he's had nothing but troubles with that truck. It's froze and gelled up way easier than my truck and we both ran together for a week. My truck always started and ran the same fuel he was. His truck was gelled up and froze too many times and required a lot of 911 and heat to get fuel flowing. Location of the pump does make a difference. Being everything else is the same fuel, temperature and working times side by side.