Mopar1973Man

Ummm... Might be cheaper... https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/GRO841039 The only problem is the bulb won't fit the housing the index pins in the housing are in a different placement. Can't be traded.

Always best to remove the transfer case first then the transmission next. If you don't have the room. Sling the transmission up on the frame rails and then lower it down slowly to the floor. Then you can slide it out.

Just changed out the radiator this morning and got the coolant flushed and a new NAPA thermostat installed. The new radiator I picked up from NAPA for $282.00 was a Spectra Radiator looks to be of a very good design. The ditch the drain cock for a drain plug which I'm happy to have. The radiator is still a large 2 core radiator. All mounting and clips proper size and type. Back to running the highway. Nearly 400k miles before the coolant pH finally ate the rubber seal. There is no cracks in the radiator header tanks just the rubber seal failed. This is why coolant flush should be done BEFORE 100k miles. When the pH level gets corrosive enough it will start to break down the rubber seals. Like just on my last fix was the oil cooler gasket which the pH was enough to eat the rubber seal bead on the gasket and start it leaking.

Never had a brace... Never had any steering issues.

They are the same size. I've stole some used sealing washers for my truck. VP44 sealing washer will fit the rail drain.

https://www.napaonline.com/p/VAD811095 - Valvoline MTF - $9.99 a quart. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/VAR706035M - Valvoline 50 SAE - $12.60 a quart https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/PZE3501 - PennzOil Syncromech - $4.89 a quart. - NV5600 Way cheaper than Redline $20 a quart or AMSOil. I've been hunting for common label product not high dollar racing synthetics. Even the dealer stuff if you can get it is $27 a quart. If NV5600 can have $5 a quart fluid why does the NV4500 need $20 plus a quart fluid? Don't say the syncros... I've already proved that is not true!

Optimally the fluid need to be GL-4. Period. Viscosity only matter for shift quality. 50 weight is more like straight 90 weight gear lube. The factory is 75w-85. Once I run out of the Mobil 50 weight I'm going to switch to Valvoline MTF 75w-90 lube which is also a GL-4 lube. Even with my rebuild and brass syncros it still shift fine. The dual disc clutch makes the throws slower waiting for the syncro to slow the shaft down and get up to the next get. Other than that Abe at Weller Truck still continues to cover the warranty with Mobil 50 weight trans fluid. Just for information purpose Dodge Dealer drop the 75w-85 and are now filling both NV4500 and NV5600 transmissions with ATF+4. Which is neither a GL-4 fluid nor even close to the 75w-85 fluid for viscosity.

Better access to the power steering fluid too... No Eric made it... As for the last one @mr.obvious made his own from looking at mine.

Backfeed without repairing the PCM. The voltage regulator only controls the green wire on the ground side. Hook up keyed +12V to the blue wire with a 5A fuse.

+12V suppose to come on after tach signal is seen. Ground regulation starts after tach signal is seen. Like I said you can back feed +12V to the blue wire it should start to function again. Just make sure to put a 5A fuse on that supply wire.

Its possible. if you can get the tracer soldered back together again. Its just a switched 12V line typically. Even if you back fed +12V on the blue lead the green lead is still functional. Like when mine fried green lead to the regulator still worked. Just needed 12V on the blue wire.

Might be so but you going to be wiping out battery all the time. The whole external regulator idea typically fails with batteries be ruined by undercharged or overcharged. All the old school regulators work off of air temperature under the hood. This why I do not suggest them. If you place a external regulator in a area that is too hot it will undercharge. Then if you mount in too cold of a place it will overcharge and boil the batteries dry.

Why would you wanna do that? It's best to keep the PCM regulator and the the battery temperature sensor. The reason for the regulator failure is the blue lead has shorted to ground. I've got a write up on how to fix all this... Then just replace the PCM. You'll never have this problem again. Then you need to do the W-T ground wire mod.

@dieselautopower could you please post up that link I wanna add it to my collection. Please.

Yup it look like the Kenworth I drive for the Fire Dept. Just exchange the dump bed for a 4,000 gallon water tank. Just really hard to kill a good Cummins.

Kind of like the 44 foot pounds holding a dual disc pressure plate...

I'll make it some how. Scrap up a few hundred more and change the radiator out. I was planning on doing a coolant flush before the transmission failed. I've got the coolant, thermostat and now replace the radiator. Ugh!

Washer was replaced in the transfer case when I did my transmission and clutch install. No problem all back together and no leaks.

Yup, Friday the 13th and a full moon has struck me... Got the transmission and clutch done went out for a short test drive and came back check for leaks or issues. Sure enough the driver side tank blew out started leaking just above the drain cock. Redneck fix. I cut the vacuum breaker off the radiator cap. This will allow the pressure to escape the radiator and not build pressure. I made 84 mile test drive and no issues. I've got a replace radiator in Ontario, OR waiting for me. $282 dollars for a replacement radiator. Oh well... Radiator lasted 392k miles and header tank seal failed.

New clutch says "Go for it!" The transmission is "OK" with the idea. My wallet is say "Try fat boy... I leave you on the street broke". Seriously it turned out awesome I really do like the setup. Sad part is I'm met with a new failure today. Radiator tank rubber seal failed on the driver side. More in another thread...

Still got to use GL-4 fluid on brass or carbon fiber. With the Mobil 50 Trans fluid I would float them if I wanted. My old carbon fiber syncros looked great but if I'm paying for a rebuild might as well replace them.

Yup. Just got done with the exact same problem. My last rebuild the lower gear was replaced but this gear wasn't. Fatigue took its toll and sheared off the whole patch of teeth. Now both gears are replaced and new brass syncros. No carbon fiber. Still running the 50 SAE Mobile Trans Fluid.

As for the transmission and clutch combo.... Valair clutches have my vote for sure. Wow! I love this clutch and how soft the pedal is. Engages way at the top of the pedal swing. Grabbed good and strong. As for the transmission it shifts smooth. Just with the dual disc clutch its a bit slow to take in 5th gear. Rotational mass to slow down then it slides right in smooth. Really got to relearn how to drive it. Engagement is way different and the pedal is so soft. Launching has a bit of chatter in the beginning but after playing around running from home to Riggins to New Meadows I put on 84 miles on the clutch. Things calmed down quite a bit as it broke in. As for the syncros that is way different from the old carbon fiber syncros. Way easy shifting and down shift easier at higher RPM's. Some of the shift issues were from the pilot bearing issue.

LOL... There is of lot others things to deal with before thinking about bigger injectors. But I love to mess with you guys.

You must got to the menu select Data Logging. Then while the engine is still running export the data logs to a email. Then when you get the email you can shut down the truck. Then view the data logs. Once you shut down the Quadzilla no longer holds the data.