Mopar1973Man

Better look at other Cummins engines most all of them are on the block. All the Cummins engines used in Dodge and Ram truck are on the side of the engine block. Heat, vibration never been an issue. Biggest issue is the AC noise from the alternator and the ground wiring which there is a W-T ground wire mod. I'm at 407k miles and still rolling. @dripley is nearly 500k miles and still rolling.

Leave it on the block nothing gained by moving.

@cajflynn is our record holder at 1.3 million miles on a 53 block 2nd Gen. Oil changes every 20k miles.

Tie rods ends for me last 350k miles with the factory OEM stuff. Ball joints are still going after 200k miles something I bought on RockAuto for super cheap.

Price of gasoline drop hard in Idaho. $2.479 to $2.559 a gallon vs $3.259 or $3.459 a gallon for diesel. Not to mention I've gotta pull the transmission again. Weller truck only rebuilt 5th gear. All the other gear have worn syncros. I use a lot of 3rd and 4th in the city. Now between all that is going on here with medical issues and weather I'm delayed on pull the transmission. I can't be zero'ed out. The odometer goes to 999,999 miles and then stops right there. You would have to send the cluster in to be zero by a rebuilder. @cajflynn is the one that found that out.

My mother (MoparMom) has to have dialysis treatment every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. That trip is 125 miles one way, 250 miles to return home. Then any extra miles doing grocery shopping, medical appointments, etc. So last time I checked I've been running about 1,000 to 1,200 miles a week. What I've got to deal with... 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 V8 for now...

Valvoline 15w-40, NAPA 15w-40, or Chevron Delo 15w-40 Typically using NAPA Gold Filter Roughly 62,400 miles a year. Currently 407k miles and counting... Already had the head off and cylinders still looked good at 350k miles when the coolant jacket blew on the head gasket at the rear of the head.

I'm running 10,000 change intervals but using standard petroleum oils. Only keep my oil for roughly 1.5 month to 2 month at the Maximum time which in that time I've cover 10,000 miles. Roughly 1,200 miles a week.

Dead pedal with P012x error code is APPS sensor.

Not the only time I've seen that happen. Lots of people jump to mechanical pumps then it hits with lack of prime or air leak and the mechanical pump won't reprime or pump till it refilled with fuel. Remember I work with many people not just here on the web site. I do work in two different shops and many different vehicles. You might have that covered with a CAT filter but most just keep the stock filter.

Just wait till the day you have an air leak or lose prime while you out... You'll never get it started.

Any thing with with modern Android version 9.0.

Just remember if the Assassin pump loses prime it will be dead where it sits. Without a electric priming pump it will not self prime and run again. The other mechanical pump can be set up with a electric priming pump but is a big mess of plumbing to make it work.

Still to this day exhaust brake is the best braking system out that reduces brake pad / shoe wear. Most all people with exhaust brake are reaching 150k to 200k miles out of brake pads/shoes.

My source is Ryan at Blue Top Steering. He informed me that after 2003 when ATF was used in the power steering system is because the old Sagnaw boxes were replaced with Ford Steering boxes. This continued since 2003 using Ford steering boxes. So this why 2003 and up is ATF and 2002 and back is power steering fluid.

That should work the duralast kit.

I missed something here. I thought it was power steering upgrade... Never mind.

Ummm... You do realize that 2003 and up Dodge trucks and Ram Trucks are FORD power steering boxes and power steering pumps?

Usually shows green is warm up mode. The turns red in run mode. But if the level is set for ZERO then it will show a black bar and the Quadzilla is turned off. Double check your setting and tune it could be push back to default tune.

Correct. The pump remains on the vacuum pump. Just the reservoir can is removed. You might ask @Blue-Top Steering if he can get them...

Yup still got the same 5 amp fuse. Haven't changed yet, and hasn't blown the fuse either. Not to mention the alternators quit burning up and working like designed.

Both the same. Power supply. The both operate in tandem again the circuit can hold the full 15 amp pump so its split out between to control transistors.

Cycle the ignition key again and reboot the mobile device and the iQuad. It should come back up typically. If not you might have to check the tune settings on the Quadzilla. Also if the battery is disconnected the level is default to ZERO. Just need to warm up completely and adjust after warm-up mode is cleared.

Your correct. There is no relays in the ECM. The power leads are split out to handle the amperage load on the circuits. Steel covers are capacitors...

I've been running AirDog 150 for 14 years now. The original pump died and was replaced with a 3rd Gen pump and failed shortly afterwards. Then now been replaced with a 4th Gen 165 GPH pump head and no problems since.