Mopar1973Man

Only has that single fuse in the power distribution center under the hood. Grounds are at the fenders. So now check the socket for +12V on each leg. It could be a rare instance of the filament broke off and flopped over another leg inside giving a weak glow. I would give a new bulb a shot if the voltage is present on the hi and lo legs of the socket.

Samething my Gates 200*F thermostat did. But the drop would swing back to 180*F before it closed.

Injector hold downs are suppose to be torqued to 89 inch/pounds.

All I can say is I will not follow the herd a second time for Dicor coatings. Extremely expensive and only lasted 3 years total joke. All that coating is now peeling up this summer and blowing off in the wind just sitting in the yard. Bought 3 gallons of the coating plus a gallon of the primer. Follow the directions closely. Even power washed the roof as directed in the instructions. Still peeling off. Don't waste your time. 3 years and about $300 dollars worth of materials. I had way better results with the cheap hardware store coating on my old Dodge Jamboree and it lasted over 10 years before any problems happened. That generic coating worked awesome hardware store white roof coating much thicker material and sticks without primer. Put it on the same way wash the roof off good. Skip the primer and then roll on the new roof coating this stuff stuck really good and never peeled off!

All you need is a live data tool like a OBDLink LX or ScanGauge II and monitor the TPS signal if the numbers a steady and not jumping around then they APPS is good. If the TPS drops to ZERO or suddenly jump up in value while held steady then the APPS has failed. When the ECM detect a value out of range the ECM automatically disconnects from the aPPS sensor and does the dead pedal and also at the same time throws the code. P0121, P0122, p0123 are the common codes.

Before tearing out the APPS or even thinking its a APPS issue. Take a live data tool like OBDLink or ScanGauge II and watch the TPS value. Does it float or change when held at a point of throttle? If it wondering or jumping value then I say change the APPS sensor. As for the warm engine idle miss that could be a injector that is popping low or bad spray pattern. Still possible as part of this issue. As for the hold at 1,500 and surge could be a AC noise issue. Either test the alternator on a bench or you could use a DVM and check the AC voltage from the alternator with everything off and the engine idling it should not be above 50mV AC. This only works if you have a DVM with a 2V AC or less setting. AC noise can produce a surge in the ECM signals. I've gotta ask did you do a W-T ground wire mod? This would resolve the A/C noise problem. As for testing the noise...

Works if there is someone ahead of you but if you live out here where I do it's common to come home night or leave early morning and not see anyone for miles. Still an OK way of getting around the lighting issue. If the pattern is poor from a low quality housing brighter bulb is just going to make a brighter poor pattern still. It was a another old time member here that made the comment about optics and I admit I ignored him but now after seeing excellent optics just nothing comes close. Like for years I ran seal beam tractor lights that were 100w bulbs halogen but again the optics got poor and the life span was getting shorter and the bulb price was getting higher. Two bulbs on lo beam and two bulbs on hi beam. Was again a OK solution but pattern and optics were say average. The old system with high quality SilverStar halogen bulbs and tractor bulbs was huge electrical draw worse with Sport headlights. 45w (90w pair) on lo beam and 65w (130w pair) on hi beam. Then two 100w (200w pair) tractor lights. Total was 290w (22.3 Amps) this was on low beam, then 330w (27.5 Amps) on hi beam. Here was the Sport Headlight and my old school tractor lights. Now with the current setup Morimoto D2S HID's and 530 PIAA LED driving lights. High and low beam use the same bulb and use a shutter to create hi/lo beam. Hi and Lo Beams now are Morimoto HID's are 35w and the PIAAs are 18w. Double both for a total of 106w (8.8 Amps) which this is a 312% saving of power and reduction of load on the alternator. More light, less drag. You can see the hot spot of the PIAAs but the light span is the Morimoto's... Here is hi beam... You can see the arc in the center this grows quite large with distance.

Still it could be the pop pressure is too low. @pepsi71ocean only had 28k miles on his injectors and they dropped to 260 bar and the minimum is 293 bar. I've had a set barely last 7k miles and had a injector that drop pop pressure and created a miss too. It's possibly. You could pull them out and send them to DAP and they will test them for you.

@dripley We know have the rubber chicken song.

Thank you. Beam me up Scotty or they come to take me away...

I got a phone call from a guy I've done work for in the past (injectors and dual disc clutch). Call me up and lets me know that why he past me like I was standing still last night. He was coming from McCall, ID and already had the dash chiming at him for low battery voltage. The alternator failed he made it close to my place about 5 miles south of home. I went down snatched the batteries out brought them to the shop and used the big battery charger on them for an hour a piece at 40 Amps. Asked a friend to give me a ride back so I could install the batteries and get the truck to my house. No problem started up and got it moving down the pavement. Simple fix just get a fresh alternator and while I've got the truck I'm suppose to do a oil cooler gasket being he's leaking lots of coolant around the gasket.

Just had a local gent call me and want to tow in a 2012 Ram 6.7L truck with error codes and no start condition. After doing the key trick I found a list of error codes. P1CEF P0593 P0580 P0606 P0869 P0562 P0606 This is the exact order the codes came off the dash. I gave @Auto Computer Specialist a call and it going to be $500 to get that ECM fixed up.

I've got purpose to driving at night and bad weather. When you consider your safety and the need for driving at night the only thing I can say is invest in high quality lighting. There is just no substitute for quality lighting. Being both of my trucks started with factory headlights which were poor from the get go. If your vision is poor you should consider quality lighting only if you know your going to drive at night. I put down 1,000 miles a week taking care of @MoparMom dialysis treatments. As winter time comes on I have to drive in the dark starting the trip and end my trip coming home in the dark from Ontario, OR. Being I've tried a few different options and ideas so far the best is the HID's. I'm know most hate the LED bulbs but I'm going to play with the idea on the 1996 Dodge 1500. There is a problem. Halogen and HIDs can produce enough heat to keep snow and ice off the headlights. LED's like my PIAAs tend to snow over really easy being there is little heat to a LED light. Why I'm consider on playing with the idea see what the technology is like for headlight bulbs. My only fear is the pattern is going to be all over the map or have some sort of cutoff line in the low beam. As for the switch back bulbs I love them because it's a low cost safety upgrade for long haul driving. Leave your parking lights on and the markers are white light like most modern little cars and trucks are doing for halo rings and marker lights.

@Me78569 was there a firmware update released for the Quadzilla? Yeah the MPG code wasn't finished it was kind of left hanging. The only thing it will report is the Gallons consumed. For the normal 98.5 to 2002 Dodge profile.

Sign of wore out injectors. How many miles on the truck?

It is typically hung near the battery on the 1989 to 1993. then on the 1994 to 1998 is on the firewall on the passenger side

Yeah.. I just had one towed here and dropped in the yard with P0606 code. Then I just got a call for a second one stuck about 5 miles south of me. Both are 2012 Ram 6.7L trucks.

It's never a waste of time. These trucks should of came with... Pyrometer (0 to 1,600*F) Boost gauge (0 to 35 PSI) Fuel Pressure (0 to 30 PSI) Transmission Temp (100 to 280*F) - Even on manuals. Boost gauge would let you know if there is boost issues, wastegate malfunctions, Overboost, Boost leaks, etc. Always good to monitor boost pressure. I tend to like brass being its self sealing and doesn't require thread sealant.

Like now in Ontario, OR there is Weedology and Burnt River Farms. I really come to like Burnt River Farms. They have a wider range of cannabis products. Now I'm going to suggest you stay to a Sativa strain of cannabis. Then lean more so on the CBD side and light on the THC side this way you can get relief of pain. Sativa strains tend to be more of a head high and don't pull you down as bad. Indica is more of body high and terms as "Indica is in the couch". Tend to make you body relax fully and great for sleeping aid. Like I jumped into the vape cartridges to see what it all about. I will warn you here and now the oils used are WAY WAY stronger. One toke is enough to get you ripped. I've got a tiny setup called the tank. The cartridge is a THC of 75% and just a trace of CBD. Very potent. As for flower there is all kind out there. Like Hotbox CBD sells Hemp flower which is mostly CBD and just trace amounts of THC. Like AC/DC Hemp is one strain that is in this list. The problem is since there is little THC there is no way to sense how much dose you've taken since its won't give you any per se high. This why I tend to like some THC so you can figure out dosing and get feedback from your body. In any case there is no way to OD on cannabis products. The worst case would be a good night sleep. Like for me I enjoy the pain relief it give when I get home from work. Typically my lower back and hips are sore and hurting. No problem get everything done for the day and hit the cannabis. Now I tend to like the smoke because I now to the point that I can take a toke or two and just enough to relieve pain but not get me messed up. Still function around the house. Now once bedtime is near then I'll break out and smoke a bowl. This now gets my night time dose and I sleep good. I wake up feeling great in the morning. When selecting cannabis flower you want to get something that is pleasing to the nose. Most shops will bring the container to the counter and allow you to smell different strains. I've got one now called "Garlic, Mushrooms, and Onions Cookies" sounds rather nasty but the smell is of garlic and onions. When you smoke it, it has the flavor of mushrooms kind of earthy taste. Then like my Vape Pen is "Huckleberry Diesel" go figure a diesel head like me. First toke you taste the huckleberry flavor slightly. When you exhale the diesel flavor comes out. Kind of piney taste. Like at Burnt River Farms they have video boards up that show strain name, what THC and CBD amounts, then is it a Sativa, Indica or Hybrid. You going to want to find a Sativa, lo THC and more CBD if possible. Talk to the counter person and explain what your after. They will help you out in getting just what you want.

We used a brass 1/8 NPT coupler. Then just soldered the brass fitting to the steel angle iron. Just test fit you PTC fitting and the sensor in the fitting. If all works you good to go. Mine was built with steel fittings and Eric @ Vulcan Performance tack welded mine in place. I do like @mr.obvious choice of placement of his bracket really good spot.

Yup. I will. Things I've learned on the Quadzilla. You need to find out how much timing the engine will allow but running WOT up the RPM band. Keep inching the timing up in all RPM placements till bucking is felt then back of a degree or so. Then you found you max timing. Now set the 2 retard curves. One is load based timing and how much retard happens at low throttle. Then there is a second retard which is for sudden high throttle and how quickly it drop and are resumes the performance timing. As you figure this out you can place the peak power where you which. Most of my past tunes I was building with a peak in the 1,500 to 2,000 RPM realm. Fuel mapping is nice too because once the turbo starts to spool you can map to pour on the fuel after its spooled up. Turbo relies on drive pressure from the engine. So to get instant spool up you need to drop a fair amount of retard to push more expanding gases at the turbine. Now once its spooled you can resume the advancement and then continue to add fuel to the fire and it will continue to build. A trick I'm still studying is oil temp vs coolant temperature. If timing is overly advanced the oil temperature will be higher than coolant temperature. This is because the cylinder walls are exposed to more flame and the coolant jacket near the oil cooler is soaked with excessive heat. As you retard timing the flame moves up in the stroke more into the head more. This where the typical -10*F of oil temp comes from. As injectors get bigger the timing has to be increased, period there is no way around it. With more fuel you need more time to get the fuel to go from liquid mist, to vapor, to BANG! but do it in such a manner that the BANG! is productive and pushing that piston the most it can. That 14cm2 I really wonder what will happen and how it will respond. Don't get me wrong I'm very curious of the turbo and what it will do. 65/62/14 should be good sizes on the turbine and compressor but just not sure of the 14cm2. side of things. Will there be enough focus of the exhaust gases to get it to spin? Time will tell.

No one know what caused mine as of yet. Still in all I can test nothing till I can connect the engine to the wheel with a transmission. Sorry @Evan...

That would be nice but I need a transmission first. Being I blew 5th gear away.

I've ran the Sport Headlights too but the pattern sucked. The Aux inbound light don't cast light on the ground very well at all. The path is very narrow. Even with the relay mod for the light to have both hi and lo beams pattern was bad. I even figured out how to do this mod with only 2 relays instead of 4 relays.Didn't matter lighting sucked. Dark of Idaho nad winter nights you just could see at all. Morimoto D2S now the light isn't just focused on the road. It covers all the way into the road side and another 30 or so feet easy. Then vertically I can light up a 50 foot tall tree at the top on high beams. Beam pattern is way better. Beam pattern is awesome and you can see an easy 1 mile down road without struggling. No need in blinding people either the Morimoto have a good cut off on lo beam. Lighting wise my PIAA 530 LED Driving light blow the doors of the Morimoto for brightness. These are street legal LED driving lights. Not like light bars which are not legal for highway use. Just a mere 15w LED lights. These thing light up a path in front of the truck super bright. They are so bright that in snow conditions you got to turn them off it will make you snow blind in a short time from the reflected light. Even on my 1996 Dodge I changed out the stock headlights for clear lens (non-sport) and halogen SilverStar bulbs and those suck too. Pattern is all wrong. Again the pattern is too narrow and hotspots on the roadway but very dim as the pattern reaches the road edge. Anything off the side of the road like a deer you'll never see it. Yup. I've installed switch back bulbs on the little half ton too.

14cm2 might be too laggy. I would not be able to run it. 12cm2 yes no problem that would have good spool up and clear smoke fast. The common is a 62/68/12 most people like that as a street turbo. Still in all the magic is in timing. More timing will make the EGT's cooler also drop the cruising boost to near zero. This is why I cruise at 80 MPH (2,500 RPM) at mere 650*F EGT's and about 4 to 5 PSI. Timing wise I'm around 26.89* of timing. Smarty capped out long ago at like 19*.