Mopar1973Man

Hmmm... Wonder why I never have that issues running between Boise, ID and Ontario, OR. ???

Brake fluid is not a life long fluid. It will absorb water over its life and reduced the boiling point of the brake fluid. As it continues to absorb water it will foul the rubber and cause it to degrade the rubber lines and rust the steel line from the insides. Bleeding will push all the trash into the calipers and wheel cylinder which is why you need to break it all down to clean the debris out as well. It will bind up caliper pistons. There is less than 0.001 space in some cases where the brake fluid has caked on to the pistons and jam them causing drag. Weird but true... Brake fluid, power steering fluid and coolant are the most forgotten fluids on vehicles.

Ok so is the brake fluid a dark color or black? Then you brake fluid is contaminated with water and rubber. Needs to be flushed out at every 30k miles. Here is my article on how to get the bleed done and clean the caliper. I don't have rear drum but it would be the same.

IR temp guns are much safer than getting burnt. Any drag will produce heat, heat is the change of work energy into heat energy.

Jump to a full Quadzilla Adrenaline tuner. The timing is way more important that just the fuel. You could get the timing tweaked in with stock injectors and stock fuel and still make a good 2 MPG gain. Skip the boost fooler and the Edge EZ box. This will trap you with only stock or small injectors. Like myself I'm running a 7 x 0.010 (150 HP) injectors and still making 19 to 20 MPG with winter fuel. Tipping right around 500 HP. My daily tune is very mellow and does excellent for performance (MPG). I can turn up the power and then I could beat 4th gens without a thought. Oh yeah, I do it smokeless.

Yup its there too...

350*F will shut off instantly in a drive thru condition.

Ummm... Working as designed... I checked all the backend setting and all are set for open forums and visible. Then check on my phone... Hamburger menu -> Forums -> Clubs

Yeah I've dealt with this issue with my landlord's truck. He runs to the salt flats for the event down there. Then ask me to change tires for him or do brake work. The hubs are badly rusted and takes a full size sledgehammer to free the tires from the hubs even the front hubs.

@Hawkez Amen brother... Amen!

This will fix that... Also replace your alternator the diodes are damaged!

Welcome to the family here... Ask any question I promise someone will help ya...

Small correction. Lvl 2 = Canbus fuel only to 100% and timing.

I've got the old school ball and spring with ZERO issues on pressure and fairly stable. Running a AirDog 165 pump on the AirDog 150 body no issues.

I would of opted for DOT4 vs Synthetic brake fluid. At least with DOT4 you can withstand more brake fluid temperature and few other bonuses. DOT5 is the extreme brake fluid with the highest boiling point for brake fluid. Most applications call for a DOT3 (401F dry/284F wet) or DOT4 (446F dry/311F wet) fluid, which is considered a higher performance fluid since it can handle more heat. While both fluids are glycol ether based, DOT4 contains a certain amount of borate ester which allows it to handle more heat. DOT5 is a silicone-based fluid that was developed for use where moisture or water was almost certain to be a factor in the braking system, such as military applications. While DOT5 has a higher boiling point (500F dry/356F wet) than DOT3 or DOT4, DOT5 exhibits more compressibility than glycol ether brake fluid. There are DOT4 fluids with boiling points that exceed DOT5 so there’s really no need to consider using DOT5 for on-road use. DOT3 and DOT 4 cannot be mixed with DOT5 fluid. They are incompatible and if mixed, brake failure may occur. Moreover, there are serious compatibility issues when using DOT5 in a system that was engineered to use DOT3 or DOT4. Also, users should take care not to mix DOT3 and DOT4 fluids as there may be brake system compatibility issues. Always consult your owners manual and use the type of fluid specified for your vehicle.

@Quadzilla Power All the downloads here are dated 2018 we could use a update here on the site... I'm wanting to update but there isn't any updates to download. Released February 7, 2018 -

I normally sert my EGT cool down to temperature and then set it for 350*F. This will shut off normally with city driving. Then if you highway then there is a few second delay but it will cool down and shutoff on its own.

Can't... If the WTS light is damaged or burnt out it will set a P0381 code. Being there is nothing said about P0381 code I would say the ECM is damaged.

All provided with the studs. 3 step torque. Final is 125 foot pounds.

W-T ground wire mod... This will fix that problem. Then here is the PCM protection fuse mod to protect your PCM from damage...

Yup.. Same here I did the head pull myself and freighted it to a machine shop in Caldwell, ID. Then he did his magic in about 3 days. The head studs and gaskets came from DAP. Even got checked for cracks.

Boost leak? I've seen boost leaks create all kinds of whistles, whines and noises...

Yes. Any dealer can flash it back to VIN factory software. Just only about 5% of the dealers and tech know much about the DRBIII tool and most have not been trained so, they just claim it can't be done because of lack of knowledge. If Smarty tuner can modify it then a dealer DRBIII can restore it too. To this day my local dealer says its impossible for high idle software to be flash on my ECM...

Low... Mine was just near $2,000 for valve guides, valve seals, lap the valves, etc. Deck the head, head gasket (Felpro) and ARP 425 studs.

Yeah I know I've changed a few of those and they are a PITA to do. Deleted truck are like the old school days for sure. Free revving the engine is not a valid test. The timing is too retard for a free revving event. You have to drive the truck to test.