Mopar1973Man

First off... Chase the leak. I typically place a vacuum on the system and then watch the lo side gauge for up to 5 minutes. If it drop any vacuum at all it has a leak. Now I typically go over to NAPA and grab a seal kit for said vehicle and end up rebuilding all plumbing connections. Then vacuum test again. Like for payment for having @Smarty Support watch MoparMom while I did my surgeries I converted his 1990 Chevy from R12 to R134a. After doing the vacuum test I found that the 2 o-ring in the compressor where too small. I had to dig in a different pile of o-rings and get ones just slightly thicker. Vacuum tested again and it held a perfect 27.5 inHg for over 5 minutes. At that point I recharged the system. Kind of glad I did this for him the compressor was complete out of oil. As for the compressor start and stop. This can be worked on after it charged. If the low side switch on the accumulator is failing you can simply unscrew the low side switch and replace. It has its own schrader valve and seal. As for recharging I always warm the vehicle up and do the recharge at the hottest part of the day. Gives better numbers on pressures and get correct charge. I just done a jeep down in Ontario where the owner was getting OK cool air. It was charged in the cool of the morning and was actually over charged. After I vented about 5 PSI off the lo side it got colder. Bringing the lo side down to 35 PSI. Vent temperature dropped to 32-35*F.

Huh? Never had this problem. I've got a quality QC 3.0 charger in dash 3 amp charger. Then Typically on short trips I run headless where I don't even bother to start the iQuad app. The tune is still there but of course there is no display. Phone is always 100% charged when I get out of the truck. My Garmin GPS runs on the other other port. As for the Quadzilla it will boot up using the last known tune that you had. You are not required to have the phone for every time to get the tune booted. For example in the morning I'll setup my phone and iQuad and then travel to Ontario. Once in Ontario my phone typically is in my pocket in and out of stores. I don't even bother to start the iQuad app.

Timbo's or what type of APPS? Your starting voltage sounds good. Top I'm going to guess is OK. I would do a APPS relearn process. This will reset the voltage limits from idle to WOT.

There is delete kits for EGR and DPF. They exist. You'll need a tuner for sure for programming out the code in the ECM. I would suggest a MM3 tuner being its a Smarty tuner but design for delete tunes. Still its not about turning up the power but optimizing what you got to get better MPG and performance without the EGR and DPF problems. Highly suggest you disassemble everything piece by piece. Do not cut the exhaust system, take it out as a full assembly. I've found out locally you cannot trade in a deleted truck, dealers won't touch them because of fines of selling vehicles without proper emissions.

Gauge scale impacts its accuracy. You would not want to use a 100 PSI gauge to test fuel pressure and compare to a in-dash gauge that is 30 PSI gauge. Even using a gasoline fuel pressure tester Typically a wide scale gauge typically has a wider amount of error on the bottom end say for our truck in the 0 to 20 PSI realm.

What I told @JAG1 is cycle the regulator full both directions to free up the valve inside. Once he screwed it out all the away and back up in pressure it became more stable. The adjustable regulators on the new AirDog's tend to hang up and do weird things.

All of the sensors. Sensor wasn't the issue it was the wheel bearings. The tone wheel was damaged. After replacing the unit bearings lights went off in 100 feet. I basically wasted nearly $300 on front axle speed sensors to find out the tone wheels were bad.

Like myself I done all the ohm testing and wire testing everything showed good. It was the tone rings failed in the front bearings. That's why I own 3 sets of ABS front sensors right now.

Impressive video. But only time will tell.

More retarded the timing building more boost. You could even try dropping to 3 just to try it and see the difference. More advancement of timing keeps the MPG's up. This is where you build different tunes for different purposes. Build your towing tune and the daily or economy tune Your welcome.

I will be leaking when you pull the shaft out. The seal is most likely harden and the axle being pulled out will drag across the seal. Not much you can do. If one is leaking the other will when you pull the shaft.

Drag the file to the editor box or at the bottom of the editor box that says "Drag files here to attach". Where you have to worry is high amounts of timing advancement at low RPM. Like I'm in the 22° to 23° at 1,500 RPM. Your still well below this yet. Your max timing would have to come up to 17, 20, 23, 26, 27 (max) then have cruise timing of 4° or 5°. Your very safe yet. Another way is the knock grows as you add more timing this is the amount of the ignition event that is occurring BTDC. As you retard the knock disappears this is shifting the ignition point more so ATDC. Then there is a balance between advancement and engine load. As you add timing the engine load will drop but at some point you'll create negative torque and the knock. Then the engine load will rises again. When you reach bucking you've gone too far advanced. Remember the Max Timing sliders is the max you reach at performance timing. The only time that you can exceed those values is with cruise timing when you stacking on top with plus a value. This is why I built a spreadsheet and calculate my timing map out and see what the values will be... So the table is the load based timing across the engine load span excluding cruise timing. Then you can see the max cruise timing vs. max timing timing.

Nope typically its a loss of prime. I would look for air leaks that are allowing fuel to drain back to the fuel tank.

Yup. The carrier has to come out so the seal can be changed. If you do one you better do the other seal too.

Could you just export the tune and then upload the file please. I want to see the rest of the settings. Go here... https://mopar1973man.com/settings/signature/ Max Load Offset you might try 1° to keep it higher in timing. If that makes it worse the flip that to 2°. This is the amount of retard you going to provide when your out of cruise timing and back to performance timing. Just remember more retard builds boost. More timing advancement reduces boost. Hence why I'm looking at you Max Load Offset the more you add retard here going higher in number towards 3 the more boost it will build making power.

Assuming a Quad here...

Some of you are picking on me a bit. Seriously. Since this last surgery I've got no pain at all. Most of my problem before was the stent in my right ureter poking at either my kidney or my bladder. Now since the doctor removed the stent I feel great. No soreness or pain issue. Don't even need the cannabis for pain. Still I'll continue to use the cannabis to keep the cancer at bay. I'll continue to use it for another full year most likely at the levels I can tolerate during the evening after all work is done.

Upload your tune to the post. I'd like to see the tune and what you got set up. Also you might list all the mods on the truck if any. Actually it more so in the timing than anything typically. I've learned quite a few tricks for getting a bit more out without adding much fuel.

Should need any alignment. Ball joints are a non-adjustable part. The only thing I could think is that you created a wear pattern in the tires now changed the ball joints and now the tires creating a pulling to one side. Take a bit of time to wear in. Might consider doing a rebalance and then rotate the tires.

The best I can say is the front differential cover has to be removed and drained. Then the both front wheel bearing removed. Then the both axle shafts removed. Then the carrier has to be removed from the axle. Then you can drive the seals out. If I remember correctly the seals are driven out from axle inwards to the differential housing.

Check your alternator before replacing the VP44. I would hate to see you ruin another VP44 with a bad alternator and possible AC noise issue.

Ummm... No pain, What you talkin' about Willis...

Ok. First off the ABS module is reporting ABS and BRAKE light. This is a speed sensor error. There is 3 speed sensors 2 sensors in the front axle and 1 sensor in the rear axle. There is a mismatch of speed between the 3 sensors. All 3 sensors MUST report the same speed or the ABS and BRAKE lights are turned on. As for the ABS module it will broadcast it speed signal on the CCD network. Any module that is listening can receive speed information from the ABS module. ECM uses the speed signal for cancelling grid heaters. PCM uses speed signal for cruise control and transmission information. The gauge cluster uses it for the speedometer. Now if there is a CCD network error P1698 or P1694 then the information is not getting to either the ECM or PCM. The gauge cluster might still function find because it just listens for speed signal. Just for information purpose the PCM is the master computer that creates the CCD network and the gauge cluster is what sets the voltage bias for the CCD network. If there is a P1698 or P1694 code then either the ECM or PCM is not hearing the CCD network.