Mopar1973Man

Just like yesterday, I spent $100 on my truck plates to renew the tags. Boy back when I had passenger plates I was only spending $32 a year for tags.

Yes. I do it every chance I can. Quadzilla and BHAF. Got to protect both of them from water. All electrical connections should have dielectric grease. https://www.homedepot.com/p/ZEP-128-oz-Industrial-Purple-Degreaser-ZU0856128/100047759 For ugly engines, I use this full strength just remember its an acid based cleaner so don't leave it on aluminum it will blacken aluminum fast. Works great on removing brake dust and wheel grime.

Here is the AirDog water separator. Just a smaller scale of the FASS. Fine steel mesh. I typically just rinse it out and reuse till rust is visible.

No. It doesn't matter. If the wire isn't hooked up the setting are meaningless. I only used level 3. Level 0 = Stock. ECM only, display data only. Level 1 = Valet Mode Level 2 = CANBus only to 100%. If any of your tune is above 100% it will limit strictly to 100% max fuel. Level 3 = CANBus Only. Tunes work as normal. Level 4 and up are Wire Tap. From Level 4 to 15 is a way of splitting up and controlling wiretap. So like in my tune I'm using 8 Levels. So this gives me 4 levels on wiretap or each level is 25%. Also, remember level start counting from level 0. Level 4 = 25% wiretap Level 5 = 50% wiretap Level 6 = 75% wiretap Level 7 = 100% wiretap Absolutely. My first experience was an Edge Comp on 5x5 and wiretapped with the old Stealth Plate. Wonderful experience and really woke up the truck. Now with the knowledge @Me78569 brought with Quadzilla and high pop pressure it might be fun to upgrade to 7 x 0.010 injectors popped at 320 bar and tune on CANBus only. Even my current 7 x 0.0085 injectors with Quadzilla is crazy power. That HX35/40 turbo is pushing 45 PSI of boost and ton of power. I'm looking at tweaking timing a bit more on my performance tune to reduce EGT's.

Works good. Very short range though typically in the cab it works the best if on the seat or on the dash. At floor level kind of OK. I've got a old one that run on two AAA batteries and it will work for about a week on a set of battery as long as you remember to turn it OFF when it park the truck. That's the bad part batteries...

As long as the meter can read variable frequency AC as well as AC voltage in the millivolt range. Typically a good alternator is 10 to 30 mV AC Marginal is 50 to 90 mV AC. (This range is hard to define some truck have issues as low as 50 mV and some tolerate as high as 90 mV rather well depends on mods and accessories.) Fail is 100 mV AC.

Basically the "Pump Tap Parameters". On my Economy tune I'm using the minimum amount fuel stretch at 1,200 microseconds. Then my TPS range is from 50% to 100% so most of my daily driving I can stay mostly on the CANBus as long as possible. Minimum pump tap is at 0% I don't need any leading fuel. Pump low boost is set for 10 PSI so I need 10 PSI of boost to kick in the wiretap. Boost scaling is at 30 PSI. So, in a nutshell, my wiretap only engages with the throttle of 50% or more "AND" boost pressure of 10 PSI or more. This makes for a very stealth rig where I can go light to light and keep my CANBus in use mostly. Then get challenged by another truck, just nail that loud pedal and off to the races we go. This tune is completely smoke free on my truck. Well you might get just a small amount of haze but no black clouds. Now my performance tune is a tad bit smokey. I'm running 1,600 microseconds of fuel stretch. Then my TPS is from 25% to 100%. Minimum pump tap is still 0%. I still don't need any lead in fuel. Pump low boost scaling is still 10 PSI and boost scaling id 30 PSI. The key factor is my timing is about 1* more advanced than Economy and my CANBus fuel is ramped up quicker so I'm hitting 150% but 18 PSI. Now this tune will break the tires loose on dry pavement been known to break the tires loose in 4th gear too on the highway. This tune will produce a black cloud but clears up rather quickly.

If and when you do you are more than welcome to still hang around and post up tales of your Duramax... But at this time your still playing with a Cummins...

Yeah, that might give clues too. The knock can only be a few things... Piston/cylinder damage Connection rod bearing Rist pin Worth a try... If it's injector related then if you move the 5 and 6 injectors to 1 and 2 and the noise moves forward that would be the smoking gun of bad injectors.

I'm trying to get back to that state but when you have a long winter and driving long distance it's tough to do. If I can nail down these last few small oil leaks I'll be right back to spotless on the underside again. I hate to crawl under and be blacker than the ace of spades just changing the oil because there is oil on everything under the truck. Man ain't that the truth... The amount of Cummins truck I've played with and worked on mine happens to be the cleanest in the area. All the others are a pit either outside, inside, or both! Makes me wanna cry or find a way to get enough money to buy that poor abused Cummins from the owner and give it a real life and being taken care of!

Man, I only wish. As I get older the crawling on the floor is getting older and older. Sure would be nice to have a shop with two post.

Still doesn't resolve the knocking though. That's my biggest worry. The only thing I can think of is pull the injectors out and stuff a borescope in the cylinder and look and see if there are any marks on the cylinder walls.

Send them in to be pop tested. Most likely if the injectors are stock OEM they are popping low pressure and early. Suppose to be 310 bar for fresh injectors. My OEM stock injectors have 150k miles on them and my lowest was 240 bar. So for spec it should be 293 to 327 bar to be within spec. Mix it in the fuel.

Now you need a return for the stock return line. Or are you just dumping the VP44 return fuel on the ground?

Minimum limits on oil pressure: 10 PSI at idle and 30 PSI at 2,000 RPM. Most likely bearing issue or piston issues. I was helping a guy with the same problem I can tell you that we went as far as pulling the transmission and starting with just a flywheel. After that we knew that its internal to the engine. Sorry to say I've never seen the out come of that particular case but I'm sure its bearings or piston issues.

Again another point, the two guys I did the replacements for, have some fly by night shop do the clutch replacement. Of course the shop pushed the ceramic for daily driving and towing purpose. Just because a shop tech suggest a clutch doesn't mean it the correct clutch for the purpose. Then again none of these people did any research on proper clutch to install.

Some people don't understand "For It's Purpose" that's why I had to post those pictures too many people thought ceramic clutches are for a daily driver or towing applications which both trucks were used for. This is only reason I'm bringing this up. Not to point finger at you...

Why I never put the straw in the basket. 12 years later still working just fine... No sunp needed and no straw in the fuel sender.

Kind of like when I replace a steering wheel in a Ford truck. Had all the same color wires. But, the colors went to different places year to year. I ended up pulling pins on the plug and sorting wire out going to all different places. You might have to break each connection and check for source signal and then find the proper lead to feed.

Another solution is an FM transmitter. This is how I do it in my old 1996 Dodge Ram since its an aftermarket CD deck. https://www.amazon.com/Doosl-Universal-Wireless-Transmitter-Adapter/dp/B018QN4INM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522242049&sr=8-3&keywords=fm+transmitter

Actually, the ABS module does. Then transmitted on the CCD bus. Then either ECM or the PCM can pick it up at that point. So that would go to the RAD box again.

After replacing two clutch because the owners installed ceramic clutches and seeing them only last 40k on both trucks and eating the pressure plate in both trucks. Not a good clutch in my mind. Friction disc was like brand new in both cases.

Interesting to say the least. I'm just sitting here thinking about all the people that bought the RAD box for TQ Management issues.

But it's not going to change the performance nor lube or cool it any better. Return port is on the left. So raising the fuel pressure above 20 PSI is not going to improve anything.

Interesting idea. Personally, I couldn't give up the center vents. I'm looking towards a flip down face stereo in the future.