Mopar1973Man

Hey! All you need to venture over to the Garage area and post your trucks up too. https://mopar1973man.com/garage/

Thank you. That's rather interesting. Darn power bug infection might come back. UGH!

You might check the CCD bus for issues. The APPS sensor is shared by both ECM and PCM. If the CCD bus is goofy it might dirty all data. Remember the PCM is the primary computer the ECM is secondary.

That should help. There is the rest of the wire maps in the articles.

What error codes are you getting?

Better off watching the live data from the ECM. Ohm values don't mean much. You should see 0 to 100 prevent throttle signal. Rising smoothly. This can be done without driving.

Another hidden behind fan pulley mount.

There is more than 3 more. Typically use a punch and a hammer. Now knock one side in so you can get a hold of the edge and pull it out.

If you get a small notebook and keep it in your console you can keep the fuel and mileage wrote down and then spreadsheet it later to see tends. Here is one of my old ones.

Now do a bit of hand math and see if that is true...

Do the job the right way and pull the VP44 off. I've seen too many attempting to cheat and end up having the gasket leak in the front form shoehorning the tappet cover back in.

It will work but doesn't last long. Got to treat it more often.

Check for the error codes and list the code numbers here and we'll get you lined out with diagnostic stuff. How about fuel pressure is the fuel pressure 14-20 PSI from idle to WOT?

You are going to need to know to deal with the Tork Tek overflow valve. Being those are adjustable you can set the pressure to your injection pump by that overflow valve. Yeah, I'd say 300k miles the stock valve is most likely shot.

Quicker way. Unhook the batteries leave the ignition key ON for 5 minutes. Turn the key OFF. Then hook the batteries back up. Do the APPS relearn. Done in about 7 minutes or about the same time to enjoy a cold beer and BS with a friend.

https://goerend.com/ http://www.firepunk.com/trans.php https://dynamictransparts.com/index.php There is 3 now to think about. Maybe some should talk to Firepunk to jumping on the site too. I'd be glad to add him to the vendor list.

Like myself, I've got LibreOffice and it doesn't work either. Microsoft only tuner program. Everyone here knows how much I dislike Microsoft products.

There was a gent here that had some sort of jacket hose that had steel braid in the jacket really stiff stuff kind of like a hydraulic hose.

Just wait... Let one of the power junkies hook you up with more... Get bit by the power bug and its a slippery slope you'll never get back up again. Like myself with +75HP injectors and that HX35/40 Hybrid turbo. It's crazy the amount of power over stock with a few mods and Quadzilla wiretapped.

Funny tidbit... @Dynamic disassembles my 46RE gets it in for being washed. Then he turns to me and says, "You know you get to put this all back together." My jaw hit the floor like "WHAT!" Very enjoyable time watching him build my transmission for me. To this day that 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 still runs like a crazed mule and shift super firm yet. I love it!

From the driver side look up towards the back of the block and you'll be able to see the freeze plug back there. If your rotting out freeze plugs it might be a good idea to replace them all. Typically stems from people over using the coolant till its corrosive and the damage is done.

Passenger battery terminal. All ECM, PCM and VP44 ground is right there. Then if you want to get crazy and go for the ground mod. Cummins ISB does some weird math to figure boost pressure. So I wouldn't consider this too bad might be part of it still.

Correct... But I could easily spin that 62/68/12. Trust me I got enough fuel for it. This little 60/60/12 literally snaps the boost needle to 45 PSI QUICK! I could use that 62/68/12 but the exhaust brake would be lost.

I could easily spin that with my setup for sure being the boost gauge just bangs to 45 PSI of boost and wastegate pops and it will settle about 42 PSI and hold. HX35W rebuild a small warning which I've run across. Its possible to have an exhaust housing seized to the center section. Then my first rebuild I ended up breaking off all the bolts to the exhaust housing on my stock HX35. Now like my HX35/40 rebuild that came apart nice and rebuilt easy. Just make sure to get a return oil line gasket. So far seen two kits without that one gasket.

Time to do an AC noise test of the alternator. What is your fuel pressure like at idle and at highway speed WOT? I don't know the source of those VP44's and if they have been tested on a Bosch 815 test stand. The biggest thing is test for AC noise and see if the alternator is creating issues for the ECM or possibly damaged the ECM from excessive AC noise.