Mopar1973Man

Are you running the current flash on the Quadzilla? Is your iQuad app up to date?

Take the risk of blowing the front seal out of the VP44. Excessive pressure above 12 PSI during starting could create hard starting.

P0191 error code has to do with Rail Pressure sensor. I would verify all the wiring and connections. Then you might consider replacing the rail pressure sensor. You could test the rail pressure sensor by hooking up a live data tool and checking the rail pressure signal.

I gathered you replaced the gear? Which gear was it? Sound like someone didn't torque the bolts properly.

Yeah I know sick they price hike they put on those little valves WH6820 they use to be $8 bucks and cheap...

I would talk to @Dynamic he's the site transmission guru. From what I know the 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears are all hydraulicly controlled. The only thing I can think of is governor pressure sensor or governor pressure solenoid is goofy. But that is random guess with my limited knowledge. @Dynamic would know the answer.

So what issues remain?

Still very marginally understanding on the timing reduct setting. That's one of the settings I've not got my head wrapped around good.

Hmmm... I might try that on my performance tune I'm playing with. A matter of fact my Stealth Plate is on its way and be here on Thursday...

Between working with the 1,500 RPM timing band, max load timing offset, and low psi timing reduct these 3 setting can get rid of most of the bucking. Max load timing offset - 3* Low psi timing reduct - 2* 1500 RPM - 14.5* That's what I'm running. Very rare to see bucking. The thing is you need to get a fair amount of retarding at low RPM's to able to pull in a lugging state.

Like @Me78569 will say that most of the MPG is based on timing. Lower Engine Load = Better MPG Lower EGT's = Better MPG So don't get tunnel vision and listen to more timing is better. Make sure you measure your engine load in the same place on flat ground travel and change your timing in small amounts. If the engine load is rises then your going the wrong way. If the engine load is going down you going the right direction. Keep going till you find a light rise then back off.

I look at it this way there is no reason to go messing with $250 dollar unit bearings attempting to make them better. My bearings lasted 150k miles each time. So if you look at this way you can go around the earth 6 times before they fail. 24,901 miles around the earth (six times around is 149,406 miles). It's not like they failing to quickly. It's the people with oversize tires and strange offset wheels that create issues with bearing life because of how the weight and wheel offset torques on the bearings. Now, these people whine all the time on how the front suspension is junk and nothing lasts. I wonder why...

The only place I get those at is the local NAPA store. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/WH_6820 No hardware store even sells these. The problem is the 1/8" NPT on either side. The local hardware store sell swap cooler valves which are 1/4" compression fittings on either side.

Actually, it causes problems when graphite in the grease fills the voids of the tone ring and then the tone appears smooth. So there is no AC signal created so now the ABS computer things the axle(s) are not turning.

Kind of like when I bought my truck I bought it Ontario, Oregon there is no taxes. So when I registered in Idaho I had to pay Idaho Sales taxes on the truck. Ughh...

MPG is still possible. Just depends on how diligent you going to be about it. Diagnostics will never be there for injector pump failure. Yes, VE pumps do wear out just like VP44 just they don't trip any light or give warnings. Tuning with all the advancements in tuning you giving up a big part of being able to tune without getting your hands dirty or having to buy special tools for timing that VE pump. So I gather you've been pumped up with all the VP44 horror stories of they giving up and leaving you stuck on the side of the road randomly. I made it point YEARS AGO to debunk that mind set I'm one of the few that made close to 1/4 of a million miles. So thing like my 2 cycle oil theory that has saved many VP44. Then my Alternator AC noise theory that is saving tons of ECM, PCM and VP44. The 3rd Gen crowd can be thanked for filtration information which saves on the wear of the pump. Fuel pressure has been another group thing where we tossed out the FSM and set our own standard of 14-20 PSI instead of 10 PSI minimum of Dodge. Which now sprung off more study on the electrical system and mainly the ground lines for the computers... As for my VP44 replacement. After putting 243k miles on the pump. Pulling 27.2 MPG in its life time. As for this project gear case wise you need to replace the entire gear case. Problem is you need to pull the cam out to change the gear case. This is also going to pose another problem like you tach signal is from the cam sensor which will no longer be present in the VE gear case. Again another good reason not to go down this road. Unless you got the time to customize electrical and other things just to make it work. If you have fly by wire cruise control you will lose your cruise control as well.

Mine disappeared years ago. I've never bothered to try to replace them. Maybe that's why and I didn't want to get hosed by the dealer for a 3 crappy plugs.

Like in redo the valve lash? Typically the intake valves are 0.010" and exhaust are 0.020" on a cold engine.

Hard to describe. Dodge had a kit that allows a service tech to install a second Carter lift pump along the frame rail. Typically near the fuel tank. There would be a oil pressure switch and an extra power lead to the battery. I've seen a few variants of this but typically ends with the pump on the frame and most don't know it died or failed. In the one case, I pull the pump off the block and the inlet pressure was so high that the check ball was forced from the outlet into the pump chamber and broke the hub plastic as the check jammed the rotor. Needless to say, there is NO stock solution that is trustworthy. You best off getting an AirDog or FASS fuel system and replacing all of it. It been proven in the past that stock plumbing is too restrictive and stock lift pump just don't have the volume requirements.

I would drop the 1,500 position to at least 15*.

Any second pumps in the line? Early on there was a kit Dodge put out that put a second lift pump in the line. If the second pump is dead it may prevent fuel from flowing.

I'm going to move this over to the Quadzila forum to give it better coverage of eyes.

Personally, I would say upgrade the turbo HY35W is a small turbo with a 9cm2 housing which is going to produce really fast spool ups choke point is down around 30-32 PSI. Where at least a HX35W is a 12cm2 exhaust housing. I stepped up just beyond this and went to a HX35/40 Hybrid. The turnbuckle is a poor man's way of holding the wastegate shut permanently and could over spool the turbo.

What's your lift pump pressure now?

I'm not even in the basket... Right down to the bottom of the tank. The thickness of a quarter (coin) between the tip and the bottom.