Mopar1973Man

I would start here...

If you didn't know a majority of my fuel line is INSIDE the frame. Nice access hole near the AirDog and comes out right about the bell housing and to the stock filter basket.

Personally come up to the full Quadzilla Adrenaline so you have full programming capability and then stay with the RV275's or +50HP injectors. This will work with a stock clutch for a very long time. I ran this combo on a Edge Comp on (5x5) for over 10 years and changed over to the Quadzilla Adrenaline. The best part is my current setup of +75HP injectors, Hx35/40 turbo, Quadzilla and 4" exhaust I cannot reach 1,100*F empty truck at WOT this is going upward of 90 MPH. Towing will be a different story but the tunning can be done to prevent excess EGT's if done properly also prevent clutch damage by configuring you fuel ramp rate slower so to keep from shocking the clutch.

Do not use any of the stock lines not worth it. I would replace everything and put 1/2" lines from the tank to the VP44. I would keep the stock filter basket and fuel heater. I was sure happy to have that fuel heater yesterday at 2*F above kept the fuel at about 52*F rolling along at 55 MPH. The other thing makes sure to get the fuel lines out of the blowing wind I know that tough with an Assasin pump on the front. Then you're going to need to add a priming pump and check valves so if the system ever goes dry you can get the truck started again. Or pack around a fully charged drill so you can spin the pump. This is a few reason why I never went to the mechanical pumps. When my AirDog dies I'll go back to AirDog again risky? Maybe...

Yeah, heat. Most people don't know they are supposed to change power steering fluid every 30k miles. That system do not have any filters so it important to change the fluid at 30k miles. So I monitor my fluid for color as the color changes it gets a full system flush and reloaded. I'm getting due to another power steering flush. Maybe that way my power steering pump is still going after 334k miles and never failed yet. Not to mention the power steering gear box and hyroboost are still functioning properly I've only got one minor leak at the input shaft of the steering box. Again this is another reason for NOT putting bigger tires on. The larger tires require more pressure in the steering box to turn the tires in a turn so the fluid temperature increases. Again people don't change the PS fluid often enough and presto, whole nightmare of power steering hydraulics problems.

Remember if you increase the flow rate you are increasing the heat in the fluid which means more fluid changes more often.

That I've not had happen but the 6 cyl on both no harm. I can see the blending of 3 cylinder and 6 cylinder being a problem. I'm going to shut off the Quadzilla this morning being its only 17*F.

I'll have to wait till sunrise to get a photo of my location. Just walk out and plugged in the truck damn cold morning at 17*F without grid heater it's not going to fire up very easy.

Normal to have a lag of about 2 minutes till it starts this just ensures the engine is lubed up before placing a load on it. Normal. When making a change that wide across the temperature range the timing map is altered so it skips a beat kind of. Typically people slit the rubber boot on the wiring boo and come through that bulkhead connector. Never thought to use the hood cable hole. As for location mine is hidden in the pouch near the passenger side.

Just like stacking a Hotrod VP44 and a Edge Comp going to net you about the same thing too much timing. Just because you can do it doesn't mean its a good idea. Like my current tune on the Quadzilla I'm about 2-3*degrees retarded from stock timing in the cold. This gives the same effect of my Mopar1973Man MPG fooler without the fooler in place. Excessive timing will produce a effect of negative torque which believe it or not will increase engine loads.

I've used the exact same kit to rebuild my HX35/40 hybrid. Good kit everything you need in the kit is there.

NEVER buy parts from eBay just way to risky. Especially being we are taking about parts that spin at speeds of 25,000 RPM's you don't want Chinese Crap to blow up in your turbo. Holset Parts!!! Matter fact being I'm helping with SmartyResource.Com and building them a database for MRP price policy violators... I've done some searching on eBay for some of these providers and there is no support, no contact information, nothing so if something goes wrong your out of luck.

Just found out that Quadzilla high idle and Cummins High Idle can co-exist with each other with no problems. This morning I fired up and it was 24*F outside no grid heaters hooked up started easily with about 2 extra revolutions of the engine. 30 seconds later the high idle fire up on the Quadzilla. Walk back in the house. 10 minutes later walked out anf jupm in the truck and looked at the Quadzilla and it was 150*F it should of cancelled. It did the power level was shown in RED and level 3 was selected it was the Cummins High Idle was running 6 cylinder mode. Cancelled normally with the press of the brake pedal and of and running. No issues...

The armatures are solid rings. So the field power is constant. No like a starter armature with multiple contacts or commutator. The only time you would have make and break is like my second alternator had a bad rear case and the bearing was loose in the case so the armature could bounce away from the brushes and break contact. Not seen another like this ever. Still need to chase down the excessive load problem. Something has changed and exceeding the load rating of the alternator ro cause the diodes to overheat. Currently, I do not have any grid heaters and no alternator issue. So there is something to be said about my theory of the grid heaters being a cause.

Just for fun... I went out and did the AC noise test grabbed my Fluke 75 meter and got ~0.032 AC volt at idle and with all stock loads on in the cab I barely tipped ~0.040 AC volts. So I pull the alternator cleaned all the contact points of the alternator and brackets. I'll admit the bolts had some rust on the exposed areas but the contact faces and the threads where still clean. I wire brushed everything clean including the brackets and the bolts then lighting greased everything. Assembled again... Retested and got the very same numbers as before. So grounding isn't exactly my issue with my problem it trying to figure out what is dropping the huge load on the diodes and causing them to overheat. Coming back to the grid heater. Now after talking to @W-T that the solenoid/relays could be a issue with contacts pitted over time. Scratching my head and thinking that if the contacts go bad like starter contact then the power is reduced ot the grid heater reducing the load on the alternator. I'm still thinking the grid heater is changing its ohm value over time and becoming a more of dead short as the heating element wears out.

Lift pump is directly powered by the ECM in stock form most of us have aftermarket FASS or AirDog pumps with a relay in the system to protect the ECM from damage.

Stock is 310 bar (+/- 250 PSI) which makes it 297-327 Bar which is allowed.

Might go up against my corrosion free 20 year old house power system with lead-acid batteries. this is only my second set of batteries. Equalized charged after topping off water about every month. These batteries are used 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. This is what powers my house. Even though I do have city power yet.

Confirmed. Mine is off by at least 2 MPH compared to GPS and the cluster. 99.7" tires and 3.55 gears. Can't be using old technology. Like I've got an LG G5 cellphone (released on April 23, 2016). I know that LG plans on releasing Android 8 (Oreo) update for the LG G5. Like MoparMom's LG G4 phone will not get the update because its too old (release date April 29, 2015). My old Azpen A729 tablet I had to retire early because of the fact it was only $40 buck the software was also older Android. It didn't display the gauge needles at all.

You have to remember at WOT throttle the VP44 creates like 20,000 PSI (1,378 Bar).

You'll have to go up against me as with some of the longest lasting lead acid batteries at 12-13 years old. There are a few tricks you can't do to AGM and tend to have shorter lifespans typically. You can't equalize charge an AGM. You can't top off AGM with distilled water,

Look at the compressor housing for wheel rub marks. This will be a clue of the imbalance. If so I would suggest the bearing be changed being the turbo spins at about 25,000 RPM's quite fast.

That is partially why I suggest replacing the compressor wheel not knowing if any of the blades are bent or imbalance is occurring. While the turbo is apart you can install bearing and inspect the compressor housing and see if there is any problems with the housing.

If the factory one is still working leave it alone. Cam sensor typically doesn't fail like the early series with the crank sensor which was prone to failure. 333k miles on my sensor still going strong!

Only has a EXPORT button. No import button that I know of on Andriod. All I do is attempt to open the downloaded file and presto the file is imported to the App and just got to name it.