Mopar1973Man

Came to the right place. Would you be willing to explain your signature a bit more? 6.7L VP44? Seems like a heavy modified engine.

Back in the 70's when I was growing up I use to see a thick coating of bearing grease on the terminals. I would rather use the fluid film or PB blaster.

Same here... I've got a steering box that I more or less turned into junk.

Anything with a dotted underline just hover your mouse on the word and it will show what the word means.

ECM fried... P0606 code present. That being said now you need to test the alternator for excessive AC noise then you can ship your ECM off to the rebuilder.

You did the standard shipping. I did the expedited shipping for the US. Bit more money but mine will be here on Friday.

Black smoke just means your wasting fuel and your providing too much fuel for the amount of boost. This is a very good thing your fuel amount to boost is just right. For sure need to install a better fuel supply system this is not making the grade for you. You want to have 14 PSI at WOT running down the highway at its lowest.

I'll most likely just buy a 1-foot chunk of hose and loop on one end short piece on the other.

I'd rather keep the Saginaw box. Easy to rebuild and make tight again.

Ok, it just did... Now what?

... eventually, @TFaoro will just sell the 2nd Gen because it broke all the time.

You might keep an eye on the apps your using and what possibly causing the radios on your cell phone to crash. I've got a weird issue myself where my WiFi shows good strong signal but does nothing. Reboot the phone and it all good. Some times with the Quadzilla it refuses to start back up the App. Shut off the Bluetooth radio and turn it back on... Work fine. Just try to be aware of the app that you using if you got some that 3rd party questionable you might try for a different app or disabling to see if this stops.

No. Turn ignition key OFF Disconnect batteries Turn key ON Wait 5 to 10 mintues Turn key OFF Hook up batteries Do APPS relearn process.

I don't use Craigsist at all. According to what I read you have to create a whole new account. The reinstating the old account is locked forever. There is a long list of DO NOT do'es that will get your account IP locked.

If remember right @Me78569 mentions that the Quadzilla does some fuzzy math to get the speed number. Like my truck I'm running 99.7" tires and it 2-3 MPH off. The fuzzy math is a bit off for sure.

Like most here would grab just standard old heater hose for the 12V tappet cover since that is a straight down run no biggy. If it was me I would use about 6" of 3/4" heater hose and the rest PVC pipe and know that it will never kink up. Any kind of rigid pipe will work great. Copper would work too. Just create a custom mounting tab for the oil pan bolt and it will never flop around. All kinds of solutions other than rubber hose.

Ummm That is going to give me nightmares seeing @dripley in a cow suit.

Technically the best design would of been come out of each device and ground right there next to the device. I know the VP44 has that nice threaded hole next to it that @W-T used. Now the ECM has the ground for the lift pump and fuel heater behind the starter right close to the ECM. The PCM you would have to go to the other end of the ground strap. That would cover the 3 main computers.

Like I'm learning there is no canned tune that will fit your particular case. Every truck and driver has different tastes and hardware. Like me, I want a good balance of power and economy. My tunes typically are going to be a bit on the retard side being I'm looking for power down low RPMs. Then my power band I've got to change up my upper end once I get my boost controller in. Even though my economy tune is using the minimum amount of wiretap I still can get rather hot EGT wise but is this because I hit choke point? or am I over fueling yet? or maybe both? So I got to systematically fix these little issues one step at a time. First, gain control of my turbo boost pressure and limit it to about 35 PSI for starts. Then see what it does from there. If it's still hot then tune the 20-30 PSI band of the CANBus fuel back. I know my performance tune is a bit over fueled and it shows it blows a cloud but clears up rather quickly. My economy tune is basically smokeless. My previous version of the Economy tune was smokeless but never got hot at all. Now add the wiretap at got stupid hot quick. Toss on the backdown limit as a band-aid. Now if I start a pass on the high from about 50-55 MPH pulls like a mule for about a car length then hits the backdown, drops hard for a second or two then starts to fuel again but limited. I want to get a nice smooth power band that I can hold my foot to the floor till 100 MPH with even thinking about EGT's.

I borrowed Bob Wagner Smarty years ago and flashed mine to enable the high idle.

Welcome to the site... There is plenty of Quadzilla tunes in the Download area. You might have to tweak and tune them a bit but its a starting point.

Go through this diagnostic...

Actually, that is called "Turbo Bark". That is not the wastegate but the built-up pressure attempting to spin the turbo backwards because the driven pressure dropped away too quickly. So the solution to that problem is to ease off the throttle not drop the throttle.

The biggest thing is to vent the vapor from the crankcase. The biggest problem is too many people not thinking long haul. So they attempt to vent all the way to the back bumper or something silly. Like the 12V tappet cover I would just grab a chunk of hose and hang it straight down. If you still on the factory 24V tappet cover then my PVC pipe mod works great. Way too many people attempt to vent to far away and end up blowing seals or gaskets out. Remember there is alway water vapor that vents to so if the pipe has low spots or can puddle internally it will eventually freeze shut. Like other attempting to do it with rubber hose and have it kink shut. The worse phone call I got from a guy that was upset that he didn't follow my advice and had it blow the tappet cover gasket on the Alcan highway in the middle of nowhere. He called me and told me I was right and never to use rubber hose for venting the crankcase it ended very poorly with him paying a very expensive tow bill. Another person called me in the dead of winter to do the same thing and tell me don't attempt to extend my idea to the transfer case. Needless to say the PVC pipe filled with water from condensing in the pipe and froze shut again blowing out the front crank seal and the tappet cover.

@jlbayes By chance do you have an up to date timing chart for the P7100 pumps? Something that shows the plunger lift measurements for those values...