Mopar1973Man

Good The ECM is most likely fine. The APPS sensor is most likely set up wrong or bad out of the box. Need to measure the voltage on the Light Blue/Black wire and see what the idle position voltage is. It should be around 0.4 to 0.5 volts typically. If it's too high then the APPS will trip the validation switch causing the high idle near 1,100 RPM's.

Sure do...

If so there should be a P1689 error code from the relay failing and the CEL should be on.

That's the problem with ECM failure there is a lot of different ways they fail. P0606 error code All sensors have either hi or lo volt error codes Wait To Start light not coming on or delay extremely long. Soon as it starts goes to WOT regardless of throttle position. Doesn't start at all. Limited pedal where the ECM will throttle to like 30 MPH but no higher. Like I said there is a lot of fails for the ECM but I like to play by a 2 smoking gun rule. In other words I'm looking for 2 different test to fail the ECM so like the ECM producing the P0606 and the WTS light is lagging. That would be a for sure fail of the ECM. Now @DooLittleDiesel might have a bad VP44 too that in not playing nice too but hard to make that call with little information.

That's easy. First off you might as well service your starwheel and clean the threads and grease the pocket part of the shaft. Also check to see if there is shoe material left. One day mine quit working and the shoe material was nearly gone and just started metal to metal. When you re-install the starwheels make sure when they are spun away from the axle they tighten this is the normal direction. Remember I'm talking as if the rotor is back in place. Now reassemble the rotor, caliper and adjust the shoes till they just touch and drag. Proper adjustment. Remember starwheels rolling away from the axle to tighten. Now check your cables for and binding or damage. Like my passenger side cable is the troublemaker. It tends to rust up or bind. If so just replace both rear cables it works some much better when the cables actually move properly. So now that you know the cable move correctly you can adjust the slack. The nut on the threaded part is for slack adjustment that's all its not to adjust the parking brakes. So you need to tight just enough that the slack is out of the cable and it not dangling down nor is it so tight that you pulling the brakes on. There is no magic bullet here but common sense will get you close to right. If you adjusted too tight you notice the pedal barely makes half travel. If it's too lose it will go to the floor and not hold the truck.

Just unplug the APPS sensor. If the idle doesn't return to normal it's NOT the APPS sensor.

Because the brake pad companies are losing money. (Not seriously...) But I will admit that brake pad/shoe wear is reduced so much I'm going to clear over 200k miles on these brake pads and still be going on. I've still got a ton of pad left when I reworked my rear parking brakes. The starwheels rusted up and I couldn't spin the starwheels no more. My first brake service was at 185k miles now at 334k miles and well over 50% of pads left yet. Still running OEM rotors.

Most likely a direct replacement with logic chips to control the validation switches by voltage. Timbo's is the only APPS without electronics completely and is completely mechanical. No voltage to set and all based on bellcrank angle not voltage.

Back when I ordered my Jacobs it was only $750 installed on the truck. Now exhaust brakes are over $1,000 and you have to install them yet. I been in a PacBrake truck but not PRXB series. It was on a 3rd Gen truck. Now those exhaust brakes clamp shut hard. Being they are driven by air pressure and not vacuum. The non-PRXB exhaust brakes you have to set the regulated air pressure to 60 PSI and check the drive pressure to make sure your not floating valves from pressure. Where the PRXB has that second valve for controlling the back pressure better then the non-PRXB series exhaust brakes. I would have to say if I was to replace mine it would do a PacBrake PRXB series after playing with the non-series.

It acts like a failed ECM. I need you to check for error codes using an OBDII tool and list all the error codes numbers you get.

Give you a guide on VP44 longevity. Being I've reached 243k miles on my last pump. Clean DC power - Make sure you under 50mV AC for good life span. Filtration - 3 micron filters are the best. If you can double stack is better like when you install the FASS leave the stock filter there and use a big line kit from Vulcan Performance. Lubricity - Bosch states you should have <420 HFRR fuel but all US fuel is 520 HFRR. 2 Cycle Oil is a good lubricant to add to the fuel. Fuel Pressure - 14 to 20 PSI is optimal.

Industrial Injection is a Bosch Certified rebuilder they do have the Bosch 815 test stand.

P1693 code just means there is another code present and need to use OBDII code reader. As for the Bucking and dying you need t oread the codes so we know what you got going on. As for the part store injection pump you can't verify if its been on a Bosch 815 test stand and calibrated after being rebuilt. I've got a listing of the shops that have Bosch 815 test stands.

Nope. Bears should be still sleeping winter off yet. Too early for bears yet.

There is the rare time where the crossing of the HO / SO boundary didn't go so good. Then you have to watch who you buy from being if you swap pumps you lose your core money. If you buy a SO typically they want a SO core not a HO. So be aware of this.

Going to drop near zero tonight. All vehicles tucked back in the shops for the cold night to come. This is also a test to be sure cellphone can upload pictures to the site without the upload error like before. Made several upgrades making the website better. Gearing it up more so for the mobile user trying to lighten the code and make it as fast as possible but keeping it feature rich.

All truck will supply constant power to the lift pump on a starter bump that is part of the programming. What happens during your long cranking events what is the fuel pressure showing? Is it bouncing and showing 7-12 PSI or what? It should be bouncing.

Depends. If your truck is stored in a unheated shop out of the blowing cold you can start up with fuel at 35 to 40*F and start rolling in minus weather. That fuel heater will aid in returning warm fuel back to the tank. So even in my case my shop is above freezing but like tomorrow it will be minus weather in New Meadows, ID. I can leave here and make through New Meadows with fuel warming yet past 50*F as I travel the coldest area heading south. So yes a fuel heater does make a difference.

That confirms it. I tend to agree.

What is the cranking pressure? Running pressures are fine.

I'll have to agree with the EGR system that is a very stupid system that never worked since the 70's. If you are feeding the engine CO2 mixed with the air you are decreasing the amount of oxygen that the fire can burn reducing power. Then turn around you are demanding more power to make up for the loss of power. Hence wasting fuel. I don't buy the acid rain thing that the EGR is supposed to prevent. That would be a good idea. Can you explain that...

The only thing about Ford's you have to remember is there is a need for a two post lift for lifting the body off. Even like the 7.3L I had a friend call me up to fix oil leaks on his 7.3L the only way to replace the rail plugs for the high pressure oil is you got to lift the cab off. There isn't enough room to remove the rear two plugs just to change the o-rings. The other problem is there is little room for the exhaust on the 7.3L Ford's so they crushed the pipe make it fit between the cab and the transmission. A lot of people have a shop beat a dent into the floor to install a true 4" downpipe. Remember there is no injection pump on a 7.3L Ford. There is the high pressure oil which is pumped into the injector on command which is used to pump the fuel up to pressure inside the injector. Oil change interval and high quality oil filters are a must. Then injectors on 7.3L are not like the Cummins they pretty expensive! They got their own problems.

Still I don't trust your calibrated torque hammer it doesn't say "Snap-On". Most likely a Harbor Freight and the Calibration is very good.

I suggest you stay with the stock HO pump.

Kind of like myself going from Edge Comp to a Quadzilla it day and night difference in tuning. Technology has come a long ways for our truck since the release of the Banks Tuner. You might step over to the Quadzilla forum and take a peek. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/174-quadzilla-power/