Mopar1973Man

Ahhh... That explains the roll over noise I got with my first Con OFE and the poly springs. My second clutch has normal springs and its silent.

Never did like that spray terminal stuff. Every time I lean over the terminal rub my arm on it end up with red spray junk all over my clothes and my arm. Engine oil leaves just a minor oily film on the terminals and will not get back you or your clothes. The felt pads don't do anything either being only protecting what its touching. So just the bottom of the terminal and the top of the battery.

Just looking more friction material. https://www.southbendclutch.com/clutches/1947-OHD-10170/ https://www.southbendclutch.com/clutches/1947-OFE-10171/

Looks like someone is due for filter change getting rather dirty looking...

Smoother I could understand being the OFE can be a bit grabby. The quieter I don't understand being mine is silent.

May I ask what the difference is? Where are you dyno'ing at these days?

I've the single version of that I listen to 6 hours of turbo whistle all the way down to Ontario, OR and back home.

Pyrometer typically is measuring the flame temperature inside. You could use a normal outdoor thermometer and measure the temperature around the BHAF. I know ISX did this long time again and typically without a heat shield, the temp was much more than +10*F over outside temp while rolling. Bein this is old information it might be worth testing again and seeing what you get for measurements as well.

In stock form without any injectors, tuners or fuel mods I was able to measure 1,400*F EGT's towing up a 7% grade. It was just a Chey 3/4 ton pickup on the trailer. Cruise set for 60 MPH. When I noticed the temp I backed out and dropped a gear and kicked the RPM's up and it settled at 1,200*F the rest of the way. Yeah the factory air box is plastic...

Just on the side of cautious nature, I would keep a fire extinguisher in the truck. Keep an eye on it as the weather warms up. If it starts to deform you'll most likely call it a fail. I'm still curious if it can be done with that kind of heat on that turrbine.

You've got my attention. I'd like to see this go through and be tested with summer heat. You'll be the first with a plastic heat shield.

Jigsaw... That's all I used.Then went to a friends house to use his brake to fold the 90* angle. Sheet metal trash can should be interesting...

Should be better on the choke point compared to my 12cm2 housing on my 60/60/12 HX35/40. Being my stock HX35W measured out at 54/60/12 The only thing I see is lag might be up there.

Mine was made from an old Idaho road sign.

Yes. Hidden at the bottom of the page... https://mopar1973man.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=8110

I've got a dumb question. Why aren't most of you just posting your trucks in the Garage? https://mopar1973man.com/garage/ https://mopar1973man.com/garage/vehicle/101-2002-dodge-ram-2500/ https://mopar1973man.com/garage/vehicle/102-1996-dodge-ram-1500/

Grid heater season. Good way to kill the alternator diodes. I unhooked my grid heaters and no longer have an alternator issue.

@JAG1 you do realize this is all in fun blinker fluid and muffler bearings... The castor oil idea I would be afraid of adding oil to the coolant at all. The oil will most likely cause the water pump seal to fail and water pump to leak. Then other rubber seals like the thermostat and water pump seal will most likely soften up too and leak. Not to mention what it would do to the rubber hoses like radiator and heater core hoses. If oil was such a good thing guys with blown head gaskets would bother washing out all that engine oil after a head gasket failure.

Thank you it another point on the score card for AC noise issues.

Why? I'm at 338k on the OEM water pump. Just do coolant changes.

I can confirm the same thing as well. I'm going to be hitching up the RV soon in the near future and most likely see the same thing.

Opps.. I know they sell the 98.5 to 02 foam though.

Test your alternator for excessive AC noise. If you have any wiring modifications, tin foil or noise filter on the PCM for TQ converter lock up issues you might want to return all electrical back to stock and ditch that tin foil and noise filter.

You not allowing enough time to drain. On my truck typically I set up to do oil changes on the weekend. So at the end of the first day at home I pull the plug and filter. Then go to bed. Get up the next morning its had all night to drain all the old oil out all night long. Then reinstall the oil filter and plug and refill with 11 quarts its right on the full mark. Doing this way you will notice the oil is just lightly tinted black being there is so little old oil left. If I a do it Jiffy Lube style and then refill I'm the same way about 1/2" over the full mark every time because there was that extra quart of old oil still in the engine. You will also notice the oil turns black instantly on first start.

https://www.genosgarage.com/product/ram-replacement-driver-seat-cushion-regular-cab-ggscrc9801/seat-cushions There is my solution.